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COlucky7s

2001 CR250 Fork Seal Change

5 posts in this topic

Hey guys, I just bought a new (to me) CR250, and it needs to have the fork seals replaced. I followed the instructions here:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373271&page=2

Until the point where the damper comes out of the fork assembly. At that point the forks on my bike and the ones in the instructions from that thread seem to be different.

Where I'm having the problem is that in the instructions the upper and lower forks come apart, and then the bushings and seal are removed. On my forks it seems that i cant get the upper and lower forks apart. The damper is out, but the outer assembly is still together and I cant get to the seals.

Can anyone help me out?

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Assuming you have them apart all the way and if i'm thinking of the right forks you have to pull them apart using a nice strong snap. By snap I mean hold them out in front of you and pull them apart with a good strong jerk.

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Hey guys, I just bought a new (to me) CR250, and it needs to have the fork seals replaced. I followed the instructions here:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373271&page=2

Until the point where the damper comes out of the fork assembly. At that point the forks on my bike and the ones in the instructions from that thread seem to be different.

Where I'm having the problem is that in the instructions the upper and lower forks come apart, and then the bushings and seal are removed. On my forks it seems that i cant get the upper and lower forks apart. The damper is out, but the outer assembly is still together and I cant get to the seals.

1. unscrew the outer cap on the top of the tube flip the fork over and pump out the oil from the outer chamber.

2. lock the fork in a vise via the axel perch. At the bottom of the fork is a bolt with the rebound adjuster, unscrew that...it is also connected to the damper rod so take care not the bend or torq on it.

3.when completely unscrewed compress the damper "top of fork" towards the bottom and the rebound bolt will be exposed, you will also see a nut that's at the end of the damper rod...slide a 16mm wrench behind it keeping the nut and bolt exposed.

use a 17mm and I think the bolt is a 21mm break the lock nut loose and unscrew the bolt...take care there is a notched "D shaped" inner rod that is delicate and on reassembly needs to be fit into the "D" shaped male ends...you'll see what I mean when you look at the inner rod.

4. remove the damper and spring

5.remove the dust seal and the inner retainer ring carefully not to gull or scratch anything

6. I always heat the outer tube with a propane torch where the oil seal sits...just spin the tube while heating the area.

7. collapse the tube and with speed slide the tube back and it will seperate from the slider leaving the seal and bushings on the inner tube, this may take a few wacks and a little force...but speed is the key.

8. Take care not to mix the arrangement or the way they face, make sure your seals face the right way compare them to the way the old ones face.

Because of the year of your bike this is a good time to replace the bushings as well...but that's up to you.

10. clean, clean, clean, if you can eat off it...ya, it's clean enough.

11.reverse assembly of the seals and bushings, I place a thin sandwich bag over the top of the tube to keep sharp edges from cutting the seal lips.

12 ok now your ready to assemble the outer tube and slider...once together I use a seal driver to seat the seal then install the retainer ring then the dust seal.

13. by all means replace the oil in the inner chamber too, this is the oil that does all the work and gets hammered.

14. 19mm wrench unscrew the inner damper assembly compress the damper and gentely wiggle out the damper assembly.

15. flip the damper housing and pump out the old oil by sliding the rod in and out...I like to hang them upside down for a couple of hours minimum to drain everything.

16. fully extend the damper rod, fill the chamber with oil, slowly pump the damper rod until all the air is out, set the oil level just below the drain holes on the side of the damper.

17. Assembly, insert the damper assembly slowly force it down until it's all the way in and screw in down tight...while doing this don't allow the damper rod to compress...it must remain fully extended until it's fully closed up.

18 bleeding the damper...place the damper in a catch bucket and compress it fully and hold it there a few seconds...that will pump out the excess oil..do this a couple of times.

19. tip the damper on it's side and drain the excess oil out thru the drain holes, make sure you get all of it out.

20, your ready to assemble the fork "reverse order" and your done...just take care to properly install the "D shaped" alumunum inner damper tube it must slide into a male slot at both ends.

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Got it done, thanks for your help guys. It really wasn't hard to pull the top and bottom of the forks apart, just uncomfortable!

Thanks again.

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