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Charles De Mar

06 wr450 synergy fork seals

14 posts in this topic

Anyone running these? I've been having seal troubles and I'm looking to once again replace them. I have had MSR and they leaked in 5 rides and some other brand(2 rides). Both were replaced by an "expert race mechanic" The stockers outlasted both significantly until I had my suspension rebuilt by said expert. Now they weep like a willow:thumbsdn:

I have tried the plastic film trick and It only help the stock seals the others it didn't.

Do shim stacks cause forks to leak more? (mentioned by said expert mechanic)

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Hopin' you vent the shocks after each ride?

Gotta be a reason you are blowin' seals as much as you are.

Been doing that too!

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yeah i blew mine out too, same 06 wr450, and not to try and steal ur thread, just wondering what you mean by venting them.? i really dont know hardly anyting about them.. and how hard is it to replace them, i havent done anyting to them so.. just wondering, again, not tryin to steal your thread, hopefully you figure out some good ones, cause i dont wanna keep having to replace them either.

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The forks have bleed screws at the top; you should bleed the forks of any pressure before each ride. They are the screws that dont "click" when turned. I would also recommend using "Seal Savers" or "Dirt Skins". They are neoprene and wrap around your forks at the seal, preventing dust and grit from getting up under the dust seal. Also, pack grease under the dust seal.

I had a seal go at 400 miles on my 05 WR450. After spending $300 or so to the dealer to replace seals on both forks, I have used the Dirt Skins since (along with the grease), and at 2000 miles on the odometer...... nomore leaks.

Jesse

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I've found that riding in mud causes more problems. Specially, if you let the mud dry on the lower tube then go out it ripps the seal or gets dirt in it, then it leaks. I use seal savers now and haven't had a problem since.

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I've found that riding in mud causes more problems. Specially, if you let the mud dry on the lower tube then go out it ripps the seal or gets dirt in it, then it leaks. I use seal savers now and haven't had a problem since.

Not much mud where I ride Mr James! Plus:prof: I wash after every ride. There was lots of mud where I grew up in Pa. I don't really miss it:excuseme: I talked to a mechanic that I know pretty well. He was suspect the the forks are slightly tweaked and told me to loosen them up at the clamps and wheel and realign them. If that wasn't it he would look at it and show me how to change the seals so I would know how to do it in the future.:smirk:

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crooks dont forget to elevate the front end b4 releasing said air

+1 on the seal savers

+2 on the factory seals

the screw is a regular flat head off to the side

the center one is for adjustment

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crooks dont forget to elevate the front end b4 releasing said air

+1 on the seal savers

+2 on the factory seals

the screw is a regular flat head off to the side

the center one is for adjustment

Yeah, I forgot that. When I go riding, I will have a buddy help me, since I dont take a stand. With the kick stand down, pull the bars back towards the stand to lift the front wheel , and have a friend unscrew and bleed the forks.

I think packing grease under the dust seal, use of Dirt Skins, and washing the bike after each ride has kept the new Yamaha fork seals good for the past 1600 miles. I will remove and wash the Dirt Skins every few rides, after each ride when there is mud.

Jesse

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For just a few $$ you can replace the bleed screw with some trick blue anodized push button bleeds. Bleeding gas out of the fork tubes couldn't be simpler.

They install in a few minutes and only require a couple of seconds to bleed each tube.:smirk:

This one is orange...for the KTM folks...mine are purty blue. The wrench come with the speed bleeders for installation only. A quick press of the button (you have the front wheel off the ground, right?) and your springers are air-free.

speedbleed2.jpg

-Jay

p.s. the photo shows the entire top cap of a fork tube. That was done for illustration purposes. I'm only talking about the little bleeder valve. In case anyone was a little confused.

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For just a few $$ you can replace the bleed screw with some trick blue anodized push button bleeds. Bleeding gas out of the fork tubes couldn't be simpler.

They install in a few minutes and only require a couple of seconds to bleed each tube.:thumbsup:

This one is orange...for the KTM folks...mine are purty blue. The wrench come with the speed bleeders for installation only. A quick press of the button (you have the front wheel off the ground, right?) and your springers are air-free.

speedbleed2.jpg

-Jay

p.s. the photo shows the entire top cap of a fork tube. That was done for illustration purposes. I'm only talking about the little bleeder valve. In case anyone was a little confused.

ya gotta tell where to get these????

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