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zimak

Engine rebuild ?'s

16 posts in this topic

Ok got most of the stuff in needed to rebuild the motor now (blown rings from a previous thread).

New valve seals in, new Wiseco piston/rings and all needed gaskets.

Couple questions before I get into it too far.

1. What grade/color of loctite to use on the engine bolts?

2. Manual says to apply Moly on the cam. I picked up some but where exactly on the cam do I apply it? Lobes only?

3. Cam chain tensioner lifter...what is it..do I need it, and how can I work around not having a special tool? I didnt realize when pulling it, that going back in would need resetting or pulling? How do I get it properly back installed?

4. Cylinder head shows in manual not having a standard gasket, what is the prefered "liquid gasket" you guys use on this?

5. Oil jet, just pops back in. Does it have to have the slot and that knotch oriented in any specific way or just seated fully?

Thanks guys.

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On the head studs/bolts I believe the manual said not to use locktite. At least when I rebuilt my 650R thats what it said. It depends on your bike. But, for the other stuff, you will want the high temp stuff. I believe its the red locktite.

I believe the moly is applied mostly just to the lobes/wear surfaces. You shouldn't put it in the bearings.

What kind of bike do you have? The bike model makes a difference in tensioner style. For example, a 650R is going to have a different tensioner than a old XL 600.

Are you talking about the gasket that goes between the head and the cylinder, or the gasket between the valve cover and the head? Once again, this depends on the bike, because the 650R you will have to smear liquid gasket all over the mating surfaces.

I'm not familiar w/ the oil jet, so I wouldn't be able to talk about it.

Hope this helps.

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2006 XR650R

All of the mating surfaces? I have the gasket for the bottom of the cylinder and the metal head gasket but nothing for the top. There wasnt one on there either just looked like liquid gasket when I pulled it off.

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You only apply the liquid gasket for the valve cover, not to the other mating surfaces that have gaskets. Your right, there is no gasket for the valve cover, just liquid gasket.

And as for you tensioner, you DO need it. The service manual says to make a special little key to hold the tensioner back. I think the method they used is a little overly complicated. All you need is a small flathead, and use that to retract the tensioner. The downside is, is you need to hold the screwdriver in place so that the tensioner will not extend back out while you install it.

Thumpertalk has a manual cam chain tensioner you can buy, but the stocker seems to work just fine. Mine has been through a rebuild, and it hasn't failed me yet...

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Another fast question.

What did you guys use for ring orientation (not the oil rings I got that in the Wiseco instructions) but the regular compression rings?

They had nothing in the instructions for how to do the orientation on those.

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My manual said to put the ring gaps opposite of eachother, and the oil ring gaps one inch from eachother, just make sure none of the gaps line up. When i put my chain tensioner in, i used a screwdriver to retract it, then i held the screwdriver in my teeth, and bolted on the tensioner. As far as the gaskets go, i got a paper bottom gasket for between the cylinder and the case, and a metal gasket for between the cylinder and the valve head, i got parinoid, and put hi temp gasket maker on the metal gasket, not sure if i was supposed to, but i couldnt believe that metal gasket could make a perfect seal. then i used the hi temp gasket maker on the head too. I hope you gapped your rings!

Oh yeah, i also moly lubed the piss out of everything so it would have some lube when i started it.

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Weird the instructions with the Wiseco piston said to line up the oil rings with the wrist pin and the center oil ring (the wavey one) 90 degrees from that.

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Well, do what youre manual says, but im pretty sure mine said 1 inch apart with the wavy ones gap in between. is yours a 10.5:1 compression or 11:1?

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Its stock compression, its just not an OEM piston and rings. Only 2 rings on mine as opposed to the 3 on the OEM that call for 120 deg of separation.

I have them 180 just wasnt sure where to orient them. I know not over the wrist pin but your also not supposed to go 90 degrees from the wrist pin correct? Like on the thickest part of the piston?

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mine is a wiseco stock compression which is 10.5:1, but its a 102.4mm so its not standard bore size. i followed the instructions that came with the piston, and didnt see anything about ring orientation, i didnt think it mattered as long as none of the gaps were lined up. it seems to run so far with 100 miles on it. when you put the circlip in for the wrist pin, make sure it doent open upwards.

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Interesting, why is that?

Instructions that came with mine seemed to be for a 2t for some reason.

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Yeah mine came with instructions for setting stuff up in accordance with where the "power valve" etc was. All 2t stuff.

So followed the instructions for the oil rings.

2 rings, each one gap centered in line with wrist pin.

Wavy ring in middle 90 degrees, facing exhaust , front end of bike.

Top compression ring 45degree's off from wrist pin.

Bottom compression ring 180 degrees from the top ring.

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