I need some help please.

ok I took front wheel off to change it then when I put it back on it will hardly spin its just not real free. Yes the spacers are on the correct sides. Its like 30 degrees in my grage could it be the cold weather have anything to do with it? its like the brakes are dragging the rotor real bad because when i spin front wheel I can hear the drag and it doesnt spin smooth what could cause this?

If the brakes aren't dragging, maybe you should try taking the wheel off again and refitting it just to make sure everything was fitted properly?

This might sound stupid but I would take it back off and try again, you never know. While it is offrun the axle bolt throgh the wheel and give it a spin to see what happens, then put it back on.

Gotta type faster to be first :applause:

Ok heres the deal, i took if off 15 times and its the brakes dragging bad if i open the pads up with a screw driver then everything spins free. Soon as I pump the front brake back up then its hard to turn. So i took it up the road got back and front wheel will barely turn with force like brakes are not releasing corrrectly. Second think is the brakes suck I have hardly any stopping power with them what the hell is the deal here?

Ok heres the deal, i took if off 15 times and its the brakes dragging bad if i open the pads up with a screw driver then everything spins free. Soon as I pump the front brake back up then its hard to turn. So i took it up the road got back and front wheel will barely turn with force like brakes are not releasing corrrectly. Second think is the brakes suck I have hardly any stopping power with them what the hell is the deal here?

Are you absolutely positive that the spacers are on the correct sides? I've got a couple set of rims and I've mixed up the spacers before, it happens.

its like the brakes are dragging the rotor real bad because when i spin front wheel I can hear the drag and it doesnt spin smooth what could cause this?

When you said "It's like the brakes are dragging real bad...", I thought you meant it must be something else. Maybe a bit of grease on the brake pistons and guide pins will help if the brakes aren't releasing?

Second think is the brakes suck I have hardly any stopping power with them what the hell is the deal here?

I've gone with a 280mm EBC disc to get more stopping power, and a steel braided line will help you too.

Hey Matt, did you just have the master cylinder rebuilt?????? Check and see that its not overfilled. Also check to see that the little brake rod that fits between the lever and master cylider is put in correctly. That rod has 2 different ends on it and if its backwards you will have no freeplay at the lever. The last thing would be to check that the pistons in your caliper are retracting correctly....make sure they are not sticking. If you can spin your wheel freely without the brake caliper bolted up its not a problem with your spacers. I think it has to do with the problem you had before after your crash. Let me know whats up ok? I just read that you said you have no stopping power??? You have to bleed your system Matt.......You have air in the system.

Is this the bike you crashed and had front brake trouble with once before?

Is this the bike you crashed and had front brake trouble with once before?

Yes it it. I just took it to dealership let them have at it. I got so mad last night I almost lit her on fire:mad: . Plus my hand still isnt right and its hard to work on anything. We have a bunch of us riding Sat and Sunday and I will be with the Gm of Bad Boy Racing. They just picked up my best friend and they are doing testing all weekend for east Sx. I want to ride damnit. Someone has to be going really slow on the test Track Right?

Matt did you align the front wheel correctly?

My method

when installing after axle is inserted (nut is not tightened)- spin tire hard and hit front brake hard - do this 5-8 times...this aligns rotor to caliper

then tighten/torque the top 2 axle nuts on the rotor side first . I always push down on the forks hards 4-5 times then tighten torque other side top 2 axle nuts and then tighten Alum axle nut

There is usually some drag but not a lot

check the drag after a little riding - if it is still substantial there is a problem

either rotor is bent or caliper is not functioning correctly:thumbsup:

Cold temps will make it worse yes....

Got most of the drag out by adjusting lever was kinda stuck on but my baraking power sucks not like it used to be. What can I do? It stops but like I have to squeeze them all the way and it wont even endo. They just suck what could be causing this? I have blead and blead its not that. But when I wreck it bent the bracket on the fork tube that caliper hangs on and had to put a washer before nut on the caliper to hanger or I have zero brakes.

...when I wreck it bent the bracket on the fork tube that caliper hangs on and had to put a washer before nut on the caliper to hanger or I have zero brakes.
It sounds like it isn't quite straight yet. The fixed ("dead", inactive) brake pad has to align with the plane of the rotor, both front to rear, as viewed from the "top" of the caliper, and vertically, as viewed from the ends of the caliper. Back the pads off and check this with a fresh brake pad.
It sounds like it isn't quite straight yet. The fixed ("dead", inactive) brake pad has to align with the plane of the rotor, both front to rear, as viewed from the "top" of the caliper, and vertically, as viewed from the ends of the caliper. Back the pads off and check this with a fresh brake pad.

Ok Will do but let me ask you this is there anyway to replace that hanger because it made onto the fork tube or is there away to bend it back straight? I am using washers right now to align. I really dont want to replace the whole fork because of this bracket that bent. Should I just keep adding washer until its aligned?

If you mean the 'C' shaped bracket that bolts the caliper to the fork, that's only serviced as a part of the caliper. If the mounting tabs on the fork itself are what got bent, then you might be able to find a good machinist who could set it up in an vertical mill and square the mounting surface with the axle bore. Otherwise, you'll need to shim it square, if you can actually get it square, and live with it, or replace the lower tube. Straightening cast aluminum parts is a high risk venture.

I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering this: Why wasn't the screwed up fork leg mentioned in the first post??? It would have saved some people from wasting their time.

The problem I am having now is determining which one is bent Gray.

The problem I am having now is determining which one is bent Gray.
Remove the caliper and lay the flat side of a straightedge, or something that is verifiably flat across the two mounting tabs to see if they are square with each other. Then clamp a flat piece of steel, once to each of them, and then to both of them. the measured distance from ant point on the steel piece to the rotor should be the same.

If that passes the test, remove the caliper sub bracket and do the same with it.

Matt,

If you have something bent in caliper area, this could be causing both your dragging and the poor brake performance. If the pads are not sitting perfectly parallel to the rotor it can cause brake drag and would also give the brake a soft feel as the caliper piston would have to travel further to make the pad have full contact with the rotor. This happens on cars when you get rotor wobble from various causes. One thing you can do is look closely at the caliper and rotor as you apply the brake. (Sitting still of course) Look for any flexing of the rotor or the caliper trying to pull itself parallel.

I might have a spare stock 08 bracket laying around there Matt. Just changed out one for an oversized brake rotor. Let me check it out at the shop tomorrow. Hopefully its the caliper bracket...if not....uhhhhhh.....you may be needing a lower fork tube.

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