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CoveCreek

How to Start the Pig

15 posts in this topic

Just purchased an used 2001 XR650R and watched the gentleman that sold it start it on two separate days and did it once myself but now unable to start is myself without suffering an heart attack. Any suggestions would be deeply appreciated.:applause:

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Alright, there is a definate method for this. If you do a search, this will come up. But, I'll give you a crash course on this...

1. Clear out the cylinder/carb. Turn gas & choke off, pull in decomp lever, hold throttle open, and cycle the motor through around 10 kicks.

2. Turn gas on, turn choke on, but keep hand off throttle.

3. Push the kickstarter until you feel it stop. This is when it hits TDC (Top Dead Center).

4. Once it stops, pull in the manual decomp, and push the kick starter down about another 2", but no more!

5. Bring the kickstarter all the way back up, make sure the choke and gas are on, and kick the bike like your life depends on it, and kick it ALL the way though.

Thats the basic process. Make sure you have spark first (obviously), and do the process until the bike starts. Or, if it doesn't start after about 10-15 kicks, repeat the process on clearing out the cylinder/carb. and start over again.

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Just purchased an used 2001 XR650R and watched the gentleman that sold it start it on two separate days and did it once myself but now unable to start is myself without suffering an heart attack. Any suggestions would be deeply appreciated.:applause:

I can sympathize with you on this. I picked up a new 07 a few weeks ago and it has about killed me, but I think I finally have it figured out.

Here's what I do:

1.) Pull the decomp and slowly kick thru 2 or 3 times

2.) Move choke to full & give the idle (throttle stop) screw a little over 1 full turn to increase idle

3.) Kick thru to find tdc, pull decomp and kick about 2"

4.) Let kickstarter return to top, man up and kick all the way thru

While I kick, I squeeze the front brake lever. This prevents me from giving it any throttle. After it warms a little you can back the idle back down to normal.

My bike usually starts on the first or second kick, following this procedure.

Like Thumpmeister said, if you do a search you will find all kinds of info on this topic. I read a lot of different posts and just adapted a little from each. After a little practice, you will have it down to a science.

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I agree with all of the above BUT:

If the motor is completely stock (jetted too lean, intake and exhaust restricted with devices) then it will be more tempramental, and sensitive to just how cold the engine is, where the fuel screw is, etc.

Go ahead and do a search for 'jetting stock carb' and get the scoop on what works best.

Or buy an Edlebrock...............:applause:

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I agree with all of the above BUT:

If the motor is completely stock (jetted too lean, intake and exhaust restricted with devices) then it will be more tempramental, and sensitive to just how cold the engine is, where the fuel screw is, etc.

Go ahead and do a search for 'jetting stock carb' and get the scoop on what works best.

Or buy an Edlebrock...............:applause:

I second that on the stock setup.

It starts a lot better uncorked.

And Welcome.

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The mods sure help

I also follow the above steps allthough I dont clear cyl. unless I smell fuel after several missed atempts.

Raising ideal screw is a very good idea they made it easy to access for that resson .

To prevent lugging at times it will require your attention as your bike worms you can adjust as needed.

Your machine will live a longer, happyier ,cheeper life .Theres much more oil moving in your motor with a few more rpm's .

At very low revs the bearings work much harder absorbing momentom direction changes .

You may have felt this when you were in 4 and should have been in 2 chuga chuga

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I dont think ive ever used the decompression lever on my 07, it starts on half choke only with 2-3 kicks. And im only 145 its easy to start.

But on the other hand my dad's 03 XR650R is a beatch! Its much easier if you use the decompressor. Sometimes when you go to kick it, the motor will just stop mid kick, and if feels like you snapped your knee cap:mad:

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:applause: Guys, thanks very much, I got the bike starting in my basement garage after reading the information I following the above advice with the key to my cycle was no choke; rode the bike in the blowing snow and 30 degree temps for 2 hours and I had returned to twenty years ago and my last time on a dirt bike.

And I restarted the bike four times without any problems. Thanks again.

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Returning to riding after 20 years.. Good choice of bike! It will give ya a thrill everytime you ride. Mine is my favorite to date and iv'e been riding for 35 years with over 40 different bikes.

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It is not that hard...(with a properly jetted and tuned bike for your riding conditions)

Here's the drill-first start of the day

1.Turn fuel valve on, choke on full

2.Decompress, then kickstart thru three full cycles.

3.Then, let off decompress and kick thru to find top dead center, then decompress to be able to slightly go past top dead center

4.Once slightly past TDC, release decomp lever and let kickstart come back up to the top position, then kick her like you want her to start! Happens first try most times for me.

After first start, I only need to cycle 3 times, kick past TDC then kick her to fire up again. :):applause:

Remember, no twisting the gas during start up!:cry:

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full choke?

Do you guys actually start the bikes on full choke. If its over 60 degree's out i always use half choke. I use full choke when its like 20-30 out, and all the bike does it spit, it never actually runs on full choke:confused:

I will kick it 1 or 2 times on full, then switch to half and it fires right up.

I turn the choke off within 3 seconds of start-up.

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I always go full choke on the first start up of the day, not matter what the temp is. But, once it fires up, I turn off the choke right away. And, I never have to adjust the idle screw during start up, as some have mentioned, once it has been dialed in for my conditions. :):applause:

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Do any of the XR600, 650L or 650R have the resistor in the park plug wire like the XR400? I removed that from my XR400 (procedure can be found on that forum) and it went from a very hard to start bike to a 2-3 kick bike. The spark plug has a resistor and they said they kinda work against each other or something and make it hard to start.

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Do any of the XR600, 650L or 650R have the resistor in the park plug wire like the XR400? I removed that from my XR400 (procedure can be found on that forum) and it went from a very hard to start bike to a 2-3 kick bike. The spark plug has a resistor and they said they kinda work against each other or something and make it hard to start.

My 650l has that resistor. Just looking for a suitable replacement piece. Only reason I can figure its there is for RF noise. Which is kinda silly actually.

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