Any difference between a Deglazing and "Touch-hone"???

A JE rep responded to an email that I wrote to them.

He said if I get the 100mm piston just to get a "touch-hone".

I have never had a cylinder Deglazed before either so I am not really sure what machining process they use for that.

I do know what a standard hone is, but I have never heard the term "touch-hone". I can only assume it's just a real light hone...???

Anybody got any ideas???

Perhaps he just suggesting a light hone with a ball hone. I had my sled cleaned up with a ball hone the correct size to give me the crosshatching back. No ring or piston size upgrade. Cylinder pressures were within spec. The motor had a slight meltdown on #1 cylinder. The cylinder had leftover piston fused to the cylinder wall, not a lot, but enough to cause problems. BTW- the spring loaded hones can catch on your porting if you are not careful and do more damage than good!!!!!

A JE rep responded to an email that I wrote to them.

He said if I get the 100mm piston just to get a "touch-hone".

I have never had a cylinder Deglazed before either so I am not really sure what machining process they use for that.

I do know what a standard hone is, but I have never heard the term "touch-hone". I can only assume it's just a real light hone...???

Anybody got any ideas???

On my CR250R I used 220 Grit Aluminum Oxide sandpaper with WD40 as a wetter and deglazed the cylinder by hand. Took about three sheets of a 5 sheet pack ($2.59 pk).

Interesting that you did it by hand. Does the pattern of the deglazing make a difference? I've always seen and heard of a crosshatch pattern.

I simply made a downward left hand twisting motion (spiral) with one piece of sandpaper (until it was worn out) working around the cylinder and then a right hand twisting motion with another piece of sandpaper (same technique) as I was sanding. The cross hatching looked OK to me, enough to get a new set of rings to seat I hope. At least the glazing is gone.

I went online and bought a hone from weisco, fits into your hand drill. Press it into the cylinder and give it 5-6 passes while drawing it up and down in the cylinder slowly. Wash clean with dish soap and hot water. Does a really nice job and very easy to use.

The "touch hone" is to deglaze the cylinder wall and restore the cross hatching with only a minumum amount of metal removed from the cylinder. It's a good idea to measure the bore at top, center and bottom at opposite axes to make sure that there is no taper or bellmouthing of the cylinder. Be sure to remove the ridge from the top of the bore (if any) before honing. The cross hatches should be close to a 45 degree angle.

Deglazing by hand.

220AluminumOxide.jpg

Deglazed2.jpg

Deglazed.jpg

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