Exhaust stud removal

This might seem like a dumb question, but are you using solid wire or fluxcore wire?? If its solid wire. do you have the gas on properly? Is the welder polarity set up for the wire you're using?

When I put in my hotcam, I put it at TDC compression(the cam lobes will point down, at an angle). Then I used a paint pen to mark the chain to the cam sprockett. Then checked the lines on the sprocket lined up with the head. Then took some bailing wire and tied the chain to the frame. Dont let it fall into the engine or come off the crank sprocket. Make sure to use medium(blue) loctite on the cam sprocket bolts.

TORQUE everything !!

so what your saying is that you had no worries about any special tool needed for the decompression mechanism, when you removed your cam cover.

Me neither - although I never completely removed it - just inspected the gasket and put it back on (never completely removed it).

What is the performance difference with a hotcam?

did you have to rejet again?

how is starting?

how is idle? (lop?)

so what your saying is that you had no worries about any special tool needed for the decompression mechanism, when you removed your cam cover.

Me neither - although I never completely removed it - just inspected the gasket and put it back on (never completely removed it).

What is the performance difference with a hotcam?

did you have to rejet again?

how is starting?

how is idle? (lop?)

No special tool needed. Just torque wrench(in. lb.) and blue loctite.

Performance is the same on the botttom. MID range really rips and pulls strong until the rev limit.

Did not rejet.

Starting is the same. Even with no A/Dcomp. Maybe cranks a hair slower when cold, but not bad.

Overall, easy install. Great mid-top increase. Highly recomend! Even with out a hi comp piston.

Idle is good, not as smooth as stock. How smooth was stock anyway though?

SteveOn,

If you really don't need to remove your head or engine, take it to a "bolt doctor". Some will even come to you. These folks specialize in removing stuck and broken bolts and usually have great success rates. Some will even not charge you if they are unsuccessful. Any auto garage or welding shop can recommend one and give you their number. I live in a small city (150,000) and we have 3 or 4 of them. The few bucks you spend will be well worth it. I have done it on several occasions when everything else failed and didn't regret it at all. :smirk:

Good luck.

I still haven't got the broken stud out yet. I looked for a "bolt doctor" locally but couldn't find anyone who knew anything about it. I found another used head off ebay and just got it in Friday. Tomorrow i'm going to try and disassemble the top of the engine and replace the head.

There has to be machine shop locally that can make easy work of that.

I still haven't got the broken stud out yet. I looked for a "bolt doctor" locally but couldn't find anyone who knew anything about it. I found another used head off ebay and just got it in Friday. Tomorrow i'm going to try and disassemble the top of the engine and replace the head.

Man...if I had a stud extractor I would send it to you for free. Maybe we should have a fund raiser. I just hate to see it get the best of you. A set of stud removers had to be cheaper than a new head???

I do. If you have a reversible drill, I will send you my Snap-on left hand drill bit and extractor. If it breaks, no big deal... Buy me a beer someday!

Shoot me your Address if you want it.

I still haven't got the broken stud out yet. I looked for a "bolt doctor" locally but couldn't find anyone who knew anything about it. I found another used head off ebay and just got it in Friday. Tomorrow i'm going to try and disassemble the top of the engine and replace the head.

Awe Hell! I guess I don't live in just any old 2-horse town. Maybe that line of work hasn't caught on where you are. There really is no worse stuck bolt than a stuck exhaust stud on a murdersickle. I have been through it too. Take it to a machine shop and let them replace the stud after the swap. Then you can sell it on ebay and recover some losses.

Good luck! The riding season is here.

Keep us posted.

Another possible extraction method may be to use a dremmel or die grinder with a cutoff blade and cut a groove directly across the center off the bolt where it is sheared off, then heat the hell out of the surrounding area that the bolt goes through all the way from the top of the head down to where it screws into the block. Then use a small flat tip screwdriver bit that you can mount into a 1/4 socket and put it into the groove and remove it that way. I just did this sunday to my cherokee engine mount bolts that had all sheared off 3/16 of an inch into the threaded bosses of the engine after hitting a pot hole. Cherokee 4.0's are notorious for broken motor mount bolts and exhaust manifolds. Some tips are to use the thickest flat blade tip you can get to prevent from snapping the tip when torquing and of course the tip should be no wider than the bolt surface itself, heat only the surrounding area of the stuck bolt and not the bolt itself (the heated area is the area that expands so don't heat the actual bolt), and you may have to actually grind a groove into the head itself where the bolt head used to seat in order to get a groove deep enough into the screw to insert the tip.

This method took me less than 5 minutes per bolt to remove and worked great. I didn't need any penetrating oil since each boss was heated with a propane torch for about a minute each which was more than enough to expand the metal for easy removal.

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