Clutch fix 2000 yz426

the plates looked good on wear and warpage when I checked them while it was apart. What should I have for cable adjustment? Just no slack, or more than that. Because I have the ASV adjusters on the lever and I adjusted it a little there. My basket had dents but not notches, I was worried about it but it looked ok to me, and the clutch did not drag before??

You should have 3mm of play in the cable.

Also important: The one special plate goes in first, before any of the rest do. Next, the narrow flat ring, called the seat plate goes in against the clutch boss. Then, the boss spring. This spring is a "Bellville" spring, meaning that it is a conical plate made to spring back against being pressed flat. It has a concave side, and a convex side (where the point of the cone shape would be if it weren't missing). The concave side must face outward.

If all that is correct, try riding it one for about an hour. Most of the drag should clear up by then.

I just wanted to add that the bellville spring says "outside" on one side of it. :confused:

4. Add worn, warped plates to the list.

I just added it. Thanks. :confused:

Sounds like a plan....thanks for the help!!

You should have 3mm of play in the cable.

Also important: The one special plate goes in first, before any of the rest do. Next, the narrow flat ring, called the seat plate goes in against the clutch boss. Then, the boss spring. This spring is a "Bellville" spring, meaning that it is a conical plate made to spring back against being pressed flat. It has a concave side, and a convex side (where the point of the cone shape would be if it weren't missing). The concave side must face outward.

If all that is correct, try riding it one for about an hour. Most of the drag should clear up by then.

sorry to bring this back up but i have read different ways to do this mod. this post says to put the small friction plate in first then the seat plate then the boss spring then the rest of the clutch plates. the diagram on the 01 clutch does not show it this way but the seat plate and boss spring first then the small friction plate, so which way does it go for the mod. i bought all the parts listed not just the 3 mentioned above and still have clutch drag. when my son gets on the gate, pulls the clutch in and revs the motor the bike trys to creep forward. i also put a new clutch set up in it including springs. also my owners manual said if the basket had small grooves they could be cleaned up with a small file and i did this. bike still wants to creep. so what next and exactly how should all the new parts go in.

Mark

this post says to put the small friction plate in first then the seat plate then the boss spring then the rest of the clutch plates. the diagram on the 01 clutch does not show it this way but the seat plate and boss spring first then the small friction plate, so which way does it go for the mod.
It doesn't matter, if you use the right friction plate at the bottom of the stack. The "small" plate is actually the one with the narrower face and the slightly larger inner diameter. The seat plate is actually just a steel ring that the boss spring bears against, and both it and the boss spring should clear the innermost friction plate. The boss spring is conical, and the "small end" of the cone should face in toward the engine.

well its all in right then and the darn thing still creeps. now i haven't been able to ride it yet as the front shocks are being rebuilt. also this motor is in a quad frame but shouldn't make a difference since this is a common swap. hopefully when i get the shocks back and ride it a little while it will correct itself. hopefully anyway

So does with work for 400f's? Sorry, I havent searched, but what does this exactly do? Make the clutch less on/off and more feather-able?

well its all in right then and the darn thing still creeps. now i haven't been able to ride it yet as the front shocks are being rebuilt. also this motor is in a quad frame but shouldn't make a difference since this is a common swap. hopefully when i get the shocks back and ride it a little while it will correct itself. hopefully anyway
The mod does not address creeping. In fact, if anything, it promotes it. It is intended to reduce the grabby nature of the clutch and make it easier to modulate. Be sure your levers have as much travel as the YZ's do. Consider using a lever such as the ASV C5 series that has adjustable reach/travel.

Don't know if the plates would fit a 400 or not.

ok i will try a different lever. something else i found out yesterday. i had to split the cases because we lost 3rd gear. this may help others. i talked to an old mechanic and he told me some things to check and i found something very interesting that he told me to check for. first i was having to adjust the cable out as far as it would go but the quad still creeped when revving the motor and clutch pulled in. i have the motor on a bench with the clutch all bolted in. you can move the clutch arm a good bit before you feel resistance.. i looked at the center of the clutch pressure plate where the rod presses against the pressure plate and releases the clutch. the rod travels 1/4" before it even touches the pressure plate. he told me this slack needs to be taken up. i tried the longer rod from the 2000 set up but it is too long. i plan on today getting some small washers to put before the ball bearing to take up this slack. the old mechanic says this should take care of my problem plus make the clutch pull a little easier. i dont get my gasket set till mid week to put the cases back together but will post back then to let all know if this worked or not.

Mark

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