Woke up the bea"R" today...

WOW!:busted:

it was nice out today and i had some free time before the game started so i thought i'd uncork the R. what a huge difference it makes. a little blip of the throttle and it wants to stand right up. it's so much happier now. i used a 175 main, 68s slow, b53e comp needle on 3rd (middle) clip, drilled the exhaust, removed the airbox plugs and replaced the carb insulator with the hrc insulator. i'm at about 500ft and it was around 60 degrees today. i can't believe how much better it runs and it's not loud at all. exhaust doesn't smell rich, no popping on decel, starts easy...life is great now.

i did have a couple questions though. i'm going to replace the filter with a k&n probably. what about the screen behind the filter? any real advantage to taking it out?

also, i still have the hanging idle where it takes a few seconds for the idle to come down to normal. will this go away with time? i only have about 16 miles on it right now. if not, what is causing this?

For the hanging idle, you might want to look at your throttle cable routing, and make sure its not caught on anything. I ended up zip-tying my throttle cable to my main frame spar under my tank so that the cables wouldn't get caught on the rubber tank mounts as I slid the tank back on.

The screen behind the filter is a backfire screen, and while its a good idea to have, its not completely necessary. I'd reccommend just getting a uni style filter, and keeping the screen.

i did have a couple questions though. i'm going to replace the filter with a k&n probably. what about the screen behind the filter? any real advantage to taking it out?

I've pretty much heard nothing but bad things about the K&N filter. Supposedly, they flow very well....maybe even too well, and people report that they've found a fine layer of dust in their airbox upon removal of the K&N filter.

I've got the UNI filter w/ the alum fame in my bike and have had no problems at all with it. Give that badboy a nice coat of oil, and a bead of grease around the edge and your good to go.

I removed the backfire screen from my bike many many moons ago and have had no problems....I actually use the screen to do the side panel mod!!

I remover the metal rim that holds the wire mesh stacks together and separated two more finely woven screens to be used for the side panel...I then folded each screen in half to make the weave a little dense/tougher....then made an aluminum backing plate out of a very thin sheet of alum....cut the panel and riveted it all in place. Its solid as hell and flows a TON of air. The mod cost me all of about $20, and that includes the new rivet gun sitting in my tool box :busted: (I love new tools)

airbox1.JPG

For the hanging idle, you might want to look at your throttle cable routing, and make sure its not caught on anything. I ended up zip-tying my throttle cable to my main frame spar under my tank so that the cables wouldn't get caught on the rubber tank mounts as I slid the tank back on.

after re-installing the carb i checked for full movement of the throttle with no binding. i don't think the cables are the problem. it has been doing this since new...before the uncorking. it's not real bad. it's a nuisance more than anything. when it's fully warmed it doesn't do it quite as bad. it just idles a little high for about 10-15 seconds or so after the throttle is closed then it finally returns to normal. other than that i love the new R!

I've searched on this and seen that i'm not alone on the hanging idle issue. i'll spend some more time with it and see if i can't figure it out. if anybody has any miracle cure let me know...:busted:

Air mixture screw

and maybe less slop in close cable.

W/new bike please keep idle up just a little high and try not to lug motor

and at start up when she's cold keep her running a little fast .You'll notice how easy it is to reach idle adjust, use it and turn it down alittle as she worms up . this is a critical time for pumping oil.

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