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zimak

Valve adjust, quick question

15 posts in this topic

Ok just checked them for the first time.

Ex was .20

In was .00 (well .03 wouldnt fit)...no wonder it was so hard to start.

Ok so when I adjusted the intake I made it so that:

.13 fit loose

.15 fit snug

.18 didnt fit

Was that right or should .15 fit loose and .18 go in with some force?

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I always use the spec'd feeler to slide in with SLIGHT resistance.

Its best to err on the loose side.

Old saying...

If you dont hear 'em, you'll burn 'em!

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Ok just checked them for the first time.

Ex was .20

In was .00 (well .03 wouldnt fit)...no wonder it was so hard to start.

Ok so when I adjusted the intake I made it so that:

.13 fit loose

.15 fit snug

.18 didnt fit

Was that right or should .15 fit loose and .18 go in with some force?

you shouldnt need a lota force, as your pulling out there should be some friction, like just enough to hear them scraping together.

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Did any of you read keven Camron in cycle world two months ago .

He talks of the cam lobs ability to open AND close smoothly .

If there's to much clearance the spring will slam the valve closed instead of letting the cam lob softly, let it seat w/constant spring load.This impact is not good.

These clearence #'s are set cold because thermal expantion will have them virtualy size to size (zero) allowing this smooth close I spoke of.

This all being true, loose is still the safer bet.If you wont to get carried away. Check it hot .you should still have maybe .001/.002 clearence.

if its more readjust when cold alittle tighter.

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On the 650r you'll know when they are a little too tight.It will be SOB to start when it's hot.

Yup...thats how I knew it was time for a valve check.

Man...that was such a pain in the ass when hot.

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I just lit off an old school XL250 yesterday after a top end job, that included a new head, valves, seals, piston and rings, set the vales per spec while motor was still on the bench - with a very slight resistance felt and ya know what, they make more noise than a 10 piece band. Shoulda followed my instinct as before and run em down to nothing (not hammered tight - just almost no resistance) and then they run fine.

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if you run valves at .000 when cold your asking for trouble down the road, good advice.............adjust valves to manufacturer specs cold! Thats all ill say.

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Mine get set at .002 intake and .004 exhaust , I set em just a tad tighter than that. But then again - I have set em and locked the - jam nut and open it up to readjust afterrunning only to find a locknut misiing and floating around in the top of the head.

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I had a lock nut destroy a GS700 top end ,broke chain and the hole ball of wax.

So much for making a couple bucks on a valve job.OUCH.

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Ok readjusted and loosened them just a bit. Now I can hear them slapping.

This is what I want correct?

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