please tell me i don't have to remove the airbox to adj sag!!

so, i'm gearing up to set the sag and i'm looking at loosening the adjusting nutz and i try the screw driver trick and that doesn't work so well. so i go pay $19 for a bloody spanner wrench and it doesn't work so well either.

the more i look at it i begin to realize that the only way i'm gonna get the spanner in there is to remove the whole freakin airbox and battery assembly...??!!

P....LEEEEEASE tell me there is an easier way!!

use a big long screw driver and a hammer . it works .

there are special *screw drivers* for setting the pre-load on the shock that work better . usually around 20$

don't remove the air box , undo the muffler and the battery cables maybe , then undo the bottom sub frame bolts and the air box band clamp then just pivot it all up and stick a brick in between the subframe and the swing arm . thats how i get to my carb and shock .

you really shouldn't have to though , i got to mine fine .

You shouldn't have to remove anything at all. Just use a hammer and large flat screwdriver to loosen the top lock nut. Then spin the spring with your hand, to the right if you need less sag, or to the left if you need more. Then just tighten the lock nut and your good to go.

Long screw drivers are your friend.

To loosen the lock nut, stick the screw driver in through the little space between the rear shock reseviour and the frame and hit with hammer counter clockwise.

To crank in some pre load hit bottom ring with said screw driver clockwise. There is barely enough room right above where the exhaust passes through and take special care so that the screwdriver tip doesn't slip off and puncture something (It didn't happen to me, but I've seen it happen)

You shouldn't have to remove anything at all. Just use a hammer and large flat screwdriver to loosen the top lock nut. Then spin the spring with your hand, to the right if you need less sag, or to the left if you need more. Then just tighten the lock nut and your good to go.
That's it. Loosen the locknut and turn the spring by hand; the pre-load collar will follow. You may have to practice your circus contortionist routine to get your hand in there and with enough grip to turn the spring, but it'll work.:busted:

you might also have to use some lubrication on the threads to loosen things up a little bit.

oh yeah, and i had to get a bigger hammer.

Also, when turning the spring by hand it's best to do it with the bike on a stand with the tire off the ground.

I use a long centering punch available at any NAPA, Shucks, etc.. Won't tear up the rings and works great. Nothing needs to be removed or loosened for access.

You shouldn't have to remove anything at all. Just use a hammer and large flat screwdriver to loosen the top lock nut. Then spin the spring with your hand, to the right if you need less sag, or to the left if you need more. Then just tighten the lock nut and your good to go.

:busted::worthy::ride::blah:

got it. i used the good old WD40 and let it soak into the lock rings. that did it.

PLEASE THROW THE WD40 AWAY!!!!!!! So much better stuff available and works twice as good.

PLEASE THROW THE WD40 AWAY!!!!!!! So much better stuff available and works twice as good.

i know, i know but it was late, i was frustrated and it was all i had available.

PLEASE THROW THE WD40 AWAY!!!!!!! So much better stuff available and works twice as good.

Some examples would be great. I have used WD forever, but I am willing to change.

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