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motopsycho650

Right Side Foot Peg Mount...

19 posts in this topic

I know I've seen an after-market, heavy-duty foot peg mount for the right side of a XR650R. I just can't seem to find it now. anyone have any links???

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Do a search man. This has been discussed at length many times. Look up "Kritter Fix" for the footpeg. Precision concepts also makes one.

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Here's a thread I asked about the same thing. I haven't been riding mine that much and the stock setup is still holding up. But, I plan to start riding it more now I've got a stabilizer and TT Vapor for it. In the thread, someone said others had complained about the Precision Concepts but didn't elaborate. It appears the Animal House Designs (AHD) is the way to go but you have to send yours in for a core.

AHD: http://www.animalhousedesigns.net/products.htm

Foot peg thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=442568

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Check out the part and make sure it does not rub or come close to the engine case. If it does, grind the intruding edge to a radius and repaint.

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I have read many posts warning all who own an XR650R to do the right peg fix, but I read a Honda report awhile back on the subject and it stated there is a washer in the misc. parts bag that needs to be installed on the right peg to resolve this issue. Anyone seen or heard this before? When I bought my bike, one of the first things I checked was the right peg, and when I read about this "washer", I went back and looked on my bike and there is an unusual washer with a tab on it that sticks up, and it is on the rear bolt between the frame and the peg arm? Does anyone else have a washer installed on their XRR that fits this description? :cool:

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Get a grade 8 allen head 7/16 bolt long enough to go through the front mount and put a nut on. Mic the bolt and ream out the hole.

Dan

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If you go with the AHD fix, they will send you an Allen bolt with a nylok nut to go through the front mount hole and a replacement Allen bolt for the rear.

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Ok hate to ask a dumb question but what is the symptom that this fixes?

I know they can get loose and back out if you dont check regularly but are they flat out failing or breaking or something?

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Though I've never experienced it personally, others have commented about them falling off and I know I read at least one who said his sheared off after becoming loose in some of the previous threads. The AHD fix puts the stress on the frame to support the peg mount instead of just the bolts.

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Though I've never experienced it personally, others have commented about them falling off and I know I read at least one who said his sheared off after becoming loose in some of the previous threads. The AHD fix puts the stress on the frame to support the peg mount instead of just the bolts.

For all... I had an engineer in our company do some forensic analysis on this and his opinion is that the Honda design is sound. The problem is the "flex" and softness of the aluminum frame against the steel foot peg mount. Honda addressed this with the shim plate between the peg mount and the frame but for faster riders this just doesn't stop the flex. The end result is the bolt is being stressed ever so slightly and even though the bolt might look good to the naked eye, it is stressing and there are microscopic stress cracks developing. When this lets go it's not pretty.

I tried to fight the 1x design (same as Kritter) and simply tapped the front peg bolt hole with a 10 X 1 tap and then used a longer grade 8 bolt with a nylock nut on the end. I felt like this would do the trick but after the Baja 250 last year, even thought the bolt was still tight, the bolt had actual bends in it. For the 1000 I did the full mod myself with the 7/16 bolt and the welded on bracket and everything is good. No doubt the bolt should to be changed after any long race.

From all of this the simple answer is to do the Kritter mod. It's cheap and easy and remember to keep some extra bolts and nuts around. Also... loctite

the front and rear bolts.

If you think it won't happen to you then make sure you have good health insurance.

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For those who know "The Wrench", in the February/March 2000 issue there was a note on the "Footpeg Washer" which stated- "Step 9 of the Set-Up Instructions does not specifically mention that the 12.5 mm washer found in the loose parts bag is to be installed on the right footpeg rear bolt. Note that the washer is a loose fit on the bolt and is mounted with the sharp side of the washer facing toward the engine. Additionally, if the bike is used in competition, use a light thread lock fluid and, even if safety wired, be sure to check the footpeg bolts regularly".

I bet the average guy who does the set up at the dealers may miss this, and I wonder how many with right peg issues are because of this washer, if any? Or, the fact that the bolts were not checked regularly during maintenance? I can see if the bolts are slightly loose this could add additional stress on the bolts, to the point of searing off at some point if not noticed, as well as just plain falling out. Any feedback on actual failures with the right footpeg and the possible or known reason why? I know there is info to search, but if you want to add into this thread that would be great...:busted:

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I can tell you there was no washer on the rear bolt on mine from the dealer. But, I don't see where just an extra washer would make any difference; all of the weight is still on the bolts in the stock setup.

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Check out 1X International too for a serious fix for the right peg. Kinda like the Kritter fix.

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I just got my right foot peg back today from Animal House Designs today, that has to be the most perfect weld I have ever seen.

If you're still lurking here Kritter, Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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on my '04 XR-R I noticed that the bolt holes through the frame were too big by 0.035 I just shimmed the hole with a spacer from McMaster-Carr, and used some red lock-tite. I ride Southern California whoops and weigh 305lb.

and have never had to re-tighten the bolts. I do check them alot however.

I think the breakage is due to the bolt loosening up and the being able to shift down in the hole on a big whoop or jump.

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on my '04 XR-R I noticed that the bolt holes through the frame were too big by 0.035 I just shimmed the hole with a spacer from McMaster-Carr, and used some red lock-tite. I ride Southern California whoops and weigh 305lb.

and have never had to re-tighten the bolts. I do check them alot however.

I think the breakage is due to the bolt loosening up and the being able to shift down in the hole on a big whoop or jump.

Scott Summers sells (at least he used too) the shims to correct the slop on the holes as you discovered. Like I have said above and in past posts on this subject, I kept trying to use my flawed logic to solve this and felt that drilling a larger hole and welding on a bracket is just crazy! How could Honda screw this up? Anyway, I'm only 195lbs and when I removed a TIGHT grade 8 bolt, with locktight and a nylock nut (drilled at tapped through frame) and saw the bends in the bolt after only 200 miles it scared me to give in and do a PROVEN fix. You're a big boy and by your post you too are fighting this. All I can say is if you don't want to do this fix at least change your footpeg bolts after every ride. Again, it may be tight but the flex is working the bolt and causing stress cracks.

Good luck

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