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jeanluconze

trailtech vapor on the L

15 posts in this topic

Anybody talked to Trailtech recently? Have they straightened out the temp sender issue? I know some guys couldn't make it work around the base of the spark plug as intended and had to mod it. Are they offering a different sender yet or do they plan to? Thanks

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I've got a Vapor on my bike. The so-called heat sensor (just a copper eye-tab :cool: ) won't fit in the spark plug well. That kinda bummed me out. So, I brainstormed:thinking: a little bit and came up with, what I think, is a pretting good solution:goofy: . In actuality, it's more of a oil temp sensor now.:applause:

Here's what I did:

1. Cut the sensor cable in half.

2. Pulled off the valve cover vent hose where it connects to the frame nipple, just below the dipstick/oil fill spout.

3. Ran the cut end of the sensor cable that has the connection terminal at the other end through the vent nipple and then fished it out through the oil fill spout, being carefully not to pull too much of it out.

4. Stripped the cable coating off about 2 inches then stripped the red and black wires about 3/8 inch ( on both sections of the cable: terminal and sensor).

5. Soldered the 2 wires back together making sure the joint was really strong.

6. Crunched up the copper "sensor" enough so it could be pulled back through the oil fill spout.

7. Without taping or re-insulating the 2 wires I soldered, I gently pulled the cable back through the vent nipple, pulling the sensor through the oil fill spout, with just enough slack to let the sensor be immersed in the oil. A pen-light or flash light helped.

8. After I got the cable pulled out the way I wanted, I re-insulated the 2 little wires(separately) with heat-shrink, and then together afterwards. (electrical tape would have sufficed...I just had a few feet of the shrink laying around)

9. Hooked up the terminals, re-attached the vent hose and badda bimm.

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I don't know if I want to go through all that, but kudos to DLDAVIS, that's a pretty good idea.

If the head oil feed bolt is accurate, I'll probably go that route. Any fitment/leaking issues?

Also, for the tach, did you guys wrap the plug wire or tap into the pulse sender (or both?)

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I don't know if I want to go through all that, but kudos to DLDAVIS, that's a pretty good idea.

If the head oil feed bolt is accurate, I'll probably go that route. Any fitment/leaking issues?

Also, for the tach, did you guys wrap the plug wire or tap into the pulse sender (or both?)

You can use the sender that came with the kit and it will just fit around the copper sealing washer and works fine. Or you can have TrailTech send you the smaller size sender that will actually replace that stock copper washer.

No problems with leaking or any issues at all.

As for the tach, I taped into the hot wire going to the coil. Works like a charm.

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You guys that use that copper lead to sense oil temp, do you run a temp dipstick? If so, how do they vary between each other?

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Also, for the tach, did you guys wrap the plug wire or tap into the pulse sender (or both?)

I wrapped the (red)wire around the spark plug wire (with a double clove hitch knot)and the ground(black) to the coil ground terminal on the coil itself.

I probably could have hooked both wires directly to the coil wire terminals, red to the positive and the black to the ground...I might try that out later.

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You guys that use that copper lead to sense oil temp, do you run a temp dipstick? If so, how do they vary between each other?

I reckon I'm the one using that copper eye for an oil temp sensor. With the "sending" unit attached to the oil tube on the head it's not really sensing the temperature of the oil, rather, it's more like sensing the temperature of the surface of the head, which, I think, would be hotter than then temperature of the oil...???

As per your question: no, I'm not using a temp dipstick. I have used them before and, if I recall correctly, they can only be read in as little as 10 degree increments. The Vapor will give a more accurate reading, but only after the temp reaches 100 degrees.

Another thing. Before writing this post, I went and stuck a digital cooking thermometer in my oil spout and ran the bike at an idle for a while. When the cooking thermometer reached 100 degrees, the Vapor temp readout read 100 degrees about a second or two later:applause: . As the oil temp continued to rise, both the cooking thermo reading and the Vapor readings were like neck and neck, not quite perfectly sycronized, but within a differential of 1,2 and a rare 3 degrees of the other. Heck, perfect enough for me:thumbsup:

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I reckon I'm the one using that copper eye for an oil temp sensor. With the "sending" unit attached to the oil tube on the head it's not really sensing the temperature of the oil, rather, it's more like sensing the temperature of the surface of the head, which, I think, would be hotter than then temperature of the oil...???

As per your question: no, I'm not using a temp dipstick. I have used them before and, if I recall correctly, they can only be read in as little as 10 degree increments. The Vapor will give a more accurate reading, but only after the temp reaches 100 degrees.

Another thing. Before writing this post, I went and stuck a digital cooking thermometer in my oil spout and ran the bike at an idle for a while. When the cooking thermometer reached 100 degrees, the Vapor temp readout read 100 degrees about a second or two later:applause: . As the oil temp continued to rise, both the cooking thermo reading and the Vapor readings were like neck and neck, not quite perfectly sycronized, but within a differential of 1,2 and a rare 3 degrees of the other. Heck, perfect enough for me:thumbsup:

Sold! that's how I'm hooking it up then....

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I just ordered the vapor and indicator dash kit for my L. Thanks for answering my questions. Looking forward to replacing the 1980's style instruments on the pig.

I may be retarded, but I'd like the vapor to show my actual mileage for maintenance and selling purposes, any way to set it at ~1600. Any tricks to "fool" it up to 1600 miles in a reasonably short amount of time?

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I reckon I'm the one using that copper eye for an oil temp sensor. With the "sending" unit attached to the oil tube on the head it's not really sensing the temperature of the oil, rather, it's more like sensing the temperature of the surface of the head, which, I think, would be hotter than then temperature of the oil...???

As per your question: no, I'm not using a temp dipstick. I have used them before and, if I recall correctly, they can only be read in as little as 10 degree increments. The Vapor will give a more accurate reading, but only after the temp reaches 100 degrees.

Another thing. Before writing this post, I went and stuck a digital cooking thermometer in my oil spout and ran the bike at an idle for a while. When the cooking thermometer reached 100 degrees, the Vapor temp readout read 100 degrees about a second or two later:applause: . As the oil temp continued to rise, both the cooking thermo reading and the Vapor readings were like neck and neck, not quite perfectly sycronized, but within a differential of 1,2 and a rare 3 degrees of the other. Heck, perfect enough for me:thumbsup:

Interesting. I would have thought the variance would be more because of the oil flowing through that area. Acting like a coolant almost.

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Interesting. I would have thought the variance would be more because of the oil flowing through that area. Acting like a coolant almost

Uh....what??

Both the oil temp sensor and the tip of the cooking thermo are just within a few inches from each other. The oil temp sensor is totally immersed in oil inside of the frame, below the nipple for the valve cover vent tube.

If any thing, the Vapor heat sensor would read a little bit hotter since it's more near to where the oil returns from the oil pump whereas the cooking thermo only dips into the oil maybe an inch at best...

But like I said before, it's close enough for me:thumbsup:

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