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Justang

My new (to me) 2005 WR450

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I just bought a 2005 WR450 today. Very excited. This is my first bike since I was a kid. I thought about getting the 250, but came across this 450 and it was a good deal. The guy bought it new in 2006 and had it out 4 times for a total of 138miles. And the odometer shows 138. He said he didn't ride it so there was no need to keep it. Blue book on this bike is $4300. I paid $3500 and got a stand, ramp, all his tie downs, and a service manual. He said the dealer did the gray wire mod, but he was unsure what else was done. I have yet to look into it to see what has been done. I plan on all the free mods and to take all the baffles out of the muffler and get the promoto setup.

This bike started right up with the e-start when the bike was cold and an ambient air temp of about 70f. Also, it kicked over in one kick after warming up. I got it home tonight and the temp was close to freezing and it had been in the back of my truck for 4 hours... it didn't want to start at all. The battery drained and I had to kick start it. But once warm it was ok again.

I had ridden a 2000 WR400 (with the 426 engine) and it didn't seem all that fast. I was actually very disappointed. The 450 is a whole different story (in the 400's defense it was poorly jetted and bogged horribly). I test rode the 450 and it pulled wheelies in the first three gears. The power delivery is very smooth compared to the wr400/426 I rode.

Here are some pics:

IMG_1471.jpg

IMG_1479.jpg

IMG_1483.jpg

IMG_1484.jpg

Here is a clip of the exhaust idling. it's 14mb.

http://www.3.8mustang.com/justang/WR450/MVI_1486.AVI

Does this sound stock? Or could there be a baffle removed? It sounded louder than I thought a stock bike would.

I need to learn about tuning this bike properly using jetting and the fuel knob. My night will be spent searching TT. :applause:

I plan on changing the oil tomorrow and going through it to make sure it's up to date with it's maintenance. I'm sure it is, but I want to "zero out" everything so I know when it has to be done again.

I'm very excited and can't wait to ride it more. The power from this bike is... :cool:

Yeah, my garage is carpeted. :busted:

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That is a amazing price on a bike that is super clean and does not appear to have been used at all.

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It wasn't used much. He had a couple trips to Big Bear and that was it. There are some scratches from the wooded areas he rode, and it looks like he dumped it once or twice, but nothing major. For all purposes it's a new bike... just a couple years old.

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That sounds a like mine before I installed a slip-on pipe on it, from the picture it it looks and sounds like the pea shooter tip is still in it.

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Welcome to the club! You won't need to do much more than the free mods to have a great bike.

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Getting ready to take it out for it's first ride. One thing I'm noticing is it doesn't like the e-start. It'll crank over and over but doesn't start. Once kick with the kick start and it fires right up, two kicks when it's cold. The battery seems a little low on juice. After about 5 seconds of e-start cranking the battery loses power, and before 10secons of cranking the motor just clicks.

I'm gonna look and see if it has the throttle stop mod done to it. I need to do some research because I don't know what to look for exactly. He said the gray wire mod was done, I want to double check that. I read the airbox mod on this bike is difficult because it has the side panel. Oh what fun. I'm gonna ride it first before I do the mods.

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I've got an '06 and when its cold out and especially if its been a while since its been cranked I never use the e start. Just kick it and use the button once its warmed up. Summer it cranks up just fine with the button. When you use the button don't hammer on it to long or it will drain the battery quick. Just bump it for a couple seconds at a time.

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ahh yes, got a good, albeit quick, 30mile ride in. I had a big smile the entire time! The e-start works great when the bike is warm. That e-start is too easy, I almost feel like I'm cheating... almost. I will say my bum is sore... but then again I haven't been on a bike in 10 years.

The bike is very powerful, I love it. You get into a bad situation and just gas it and you wheelie over everything. I climbed a couple hills with ease. There is a slight bog at times.

Type more later. My hands are vibrating still. I'm such a newb again! :cool:

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$3500 don't sound like a bad price. I'm going to try to sell mine again in the spring. I'll probably put $3000 on it and stick with it. I've ridden mine though. Its been nearly 3 years and I STILL can't ride a dirtbike like I want to. I'm getting another 4-wheeler.

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I started taking the bike apart this afternoon. Found that it has all the air box modifications, the YZ throttle stop, AIS has been removed, and the gray wire has been cut. It does not have the o-ring mod.

Jets are as follows:

Main = 165

Pilot = 48

Leak = 50

Starter = 65

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Wow you got lucky buying a bike cheap with all the mods done. I just got an 05' also but all it had was a JD jet kit installed so I'm doing the other mods right now. I like my bike too! :cool:

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I have an 05 that I ride/race/repair frequently.

1. I can see from the pics of your exhaust that it is not stock. It looks like someone put the PMB insert into the exhaust to open it up a bit. Its a good mod and still keeps it at about 92db

2. I ride the mojave desert and have my jetting set to a 168 main and a 48 pilot.

3. The estart is useless if your bike is cold and you have it in gear. Put it in neutral and it will probably fire up the first time. However, you gotta have a fully charged battery.

7. kicking this bike is real easy.

8. be sure to get your suspension sprung and adjusted for your weight. This bike is heavy and it really needs that.

9. I liked mine much better when I geared it down a bit. I went down one tooth on the front and up two teeth on the back. it doesn't stall as easy and you can climb most hills in second gear by just giving it more gas.

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Dang, I am so jealous that you paid 3500 for such a clean 05. I paid that for my 01 WR 426, but I did buy it with it already fully converted to supermoto. I can't wait for another year or two and I will be getting 450.

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I started taking the bike apart this afternoon. Found that it has all the air box modifications, the YZ throttle stop, AIS has been removed, and the gray wire has been cut. It does not have the o-ring mod.

Jets are as follows:

Main = 165

Pilot = 48

Leak = 50

Starter = 65

I have been ridin my 05 on the street since I got it in early 06, did the grey wire, throttle stop, airbox mods all myself and then I found out about a great mod by reading these forums. Turns out these guys are right about it and I suggest that you do this cuz for the money its the best dang mod out there to get your bike thumpin harder. Ready....:cool: JD Jetting kit and a Zip TY fuel adj screw. JD makes a triple taper needle that delivers fuel better and the fuel adjust can easily be adjusted on the fly for that extra little tune. Far and away the best mod for these bikes till you blow it up...Then you gotta go 488:eek:

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I put the bike back together today with a fuel screw and the o-ring mod. I adjusted it to 1.5 turns, it still has a slight bog when giving it about 1/2 throttle from idle. But it wasn't completely warm, just ran it at idle for 3-5min or so. It's not the zipty fuel screw, it's a white bros fuel screw. Looks about the same as the zipty. After putting it all back together the e-start fires the bike up in 2-3 cranks, that really makes me happy!

I was thinking about getting a 40 leak jet, but I'll ride it and get it truly warm and see if it still bogs.

I have a Trail Tech Vapor computer on the way too. I read ThumperFAQ and it said using a tach is a good way to tune using the fuel screw.

I plan on removing the baffle from the exhaust and possibly having a 1.5" tail pipe made. I removed the tail pipe but kept the spark arrester in. It is louder, but the exhaust is not cleanly directed away from the bike. An after market pipe is just not in my budget right now; I've spent way to much in the past 4 days. :cool:

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Take it to a shop with a Dyno. This will be the best $125 you will spend after the free mods. I have my fuel screw out 2.75 turns. No bog, no decel pop, rippin power all the way through the range. Haven't touched the screw for 2 seasons riding from Sea Level to 5000'

06' with GYTR AIS Removal Kit and free mods

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I put the bike back together today with a fuel screw and the o-ring mod. I adjusted it to 1.5 turns, it still has a slight bog when giving it about 1/2 throttle from idle. But it wasn't completely warm, just ran it at idle for 3-5min or so. It's not the zipty fuel screw, it's a white bros fuel screw. Looks about the same as the zipty. After putting it all back together the e-start fires the bike up in 2-3 cranks, that really makes me happy!

I was thinking about getting a 40 leak jet, but I'll ride it and get it truly warm and see if it still bogs.

I have a Trail Tech Vapor computer on the way too. I read ThumperFAQ and it said using a tach is a good way to tune using the fuel screw.

I plan on removing the baffle from the exhaust and possibly having a 1.5" tail pipe made. I removed the tail pipe but kept the spark arrester in. It is louder, but the exhaust is not cleanly directed away from the bike. An after market pipe is just not in my budget right now; I've spent way to much in the past 4 days. :applause:

Yup you are on the way man. True dyno tuning (carb) needs a sensor sent through the can to the head pipe. Dont think the stock can will allow this. As far as the exhaust direction deal goes, I got annoyed with that issue if you're talking about that whisper back there all the time. So I free handed a line outside the curl on the turndown then fired up the dremel. Totally eliminated that wisper, sounds real nice now, and maybe subliminal but I think this donkey bucks a bit harder.:cool: Think that curl was more a structural integrity issue in case of bending on laydowns. So what. Nuthin a set of pliers cant fix

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I thought about a dyno, no better way to truly tune.

I'm still debating how I'm going to do the exhaust. I want to remove the baffle closest to the tail pipe and fab a 1.5" tail pipe. I may also fire up my dremel tool to widen the mouth of the can. I saw a guy on here who took out both baffles and then ran a piece of rounded perforated sheet metal, surrounded by muffler material. Much cheaper than buying a slip on... but much more work. :cool: We'll see what happens when I remove the baffle and do the tail pipe.

Any thoughts on gearing?

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