Easiest way to adjust rear shock preload

I was wondering if anybody would have some helpful hints on adjusting the preload on the rear shock spring. In order to have access to the top spanner nut, the book shows to remove the rear subframe, but that seems a little excessive. In order to properly set the rear sag, I would have to remove the subframe, adjust the spring, install it back on to get another reading, then repeat as necessary.

Even though I know this is probably tabboo, it looks as though I could use the old "hammer and punch" method, from the right side, under the air intake boot without removing anything, although it will be a little tough on the spanner nut ears.

Thats the way I set it Billy - hammer and long screw driver,(it's a race bike, beat on it!). Sometimes the lock nut can be backed off and the spring turned to rotate the adjusting nut. By the way, did you solve the stalling problem?

The old hammer and punch method works great, as you mentioned...a little rough on the nuts(doh). It is a lot easier to loosen the top one first, then take the load off of the rear, many times you can just turn the spring and tighten away. The easiest way to unload rear is to tilt the bike forward using the kickstand as a fulcrum, or put on a stand.

Thanks for the advice. As far as my stalling problem goes, I checked the valve clearance, and it was spot on. I pulled my plug and it was very, very black, so I cleaned it up the best I could and ordered some online. I havent' had the chance to actually take it back out yet to see if I can get it to stall again, but I'll keep ya'll posted on what happens.

I guess the dirty plugged was causing the stalling problem. I cleaned the plug up, and took the bike out yesterday, and she ran like a champ. I'm going to pull the plug again tonight, just to check the color again. I should be getting my E-Series any day now...(again...), so hopefully if I'm a little rich now, I should be pretty close with the pipe.

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