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BrandonW

Scott's stabilizer is punishing me!

19 posts in this topic

I cannot keep my tower from wiggling loose!

I have ground down all welds that prevented the clamp from seating good on the head tube, and I have also taken an exacto knife to the seal for the head tube bearings.

I also am using loc-tite on the two bolts.

Is it the welds that I have not ground down enough?

I am tightening the bolts as tight as they will go, and when I turn the bars, after 8-10 times I can see the top of the tower wiggling.

I have my damper set with the high-speed circuit still on factory settings, and I usually run with the low-speed circuit turned about 4 clicks out (fairly stiff).

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Brandon

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Will sand some paint tonight. Anything to get that tighter will help.

Just got of the horn with Scotts , and the person that I spoke to stated that after tightening the clamp bolts, if I just keep the bike on the stand and start whipping it back and forth, then the clamp will come loose. Period.

Soooooo, that might have been a little bit of my problem. It worked loose this weekend, and I have tried about 3 times to get that thing to get tight, but my overzealous testing of the damper with the bike on the stand might not be helping me out too much.

Brandon

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Dude,

You got access to a digital camera....If so post a pic of the top of the housing so I can see what the problem is.

Yours should look like this:

10504423-6ef2-02000180-.jpg

10504385-c82d-02000180-.jpg

10504411-458a-02000180-.jpg

Bonzai :)

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Mine does the same thing. My problem though is when I turn the bars all the way to the right the triple clamp hits the tower and knocks it loose. :) It didn't use to do it when I first got it. I fell really hard and it seemed to flatten the fork stop enough to allow the fork to rotate more. I am going to buy a weld on tower. I just hope the triple clamp wont hit the new tower cause then I am screwed. Anyone want to buy a bolt on tower?

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Dan,

That's an easy fix as well, You will have to add some metal to the Tripple clamp stop to keep that from happening. I had do do mine as well.

10504425-dd7b-02000180-.jpg

Bonzai :)

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Kaze... is this deja vu ? :) I could swear I had this exact same problem.

If you are testing the post with the damper slow setting set highest like I did read on:

What I ended up doing (never did trim the gasket kaze) was cinch each bolt a little bit at a time like kaze suggested until tight and made sure my steering stops were stopping handlebars not the damper.

I stopped trying to yank the hell out of my bars while on the stand. I also backed out on my slow setting to 6 or 7 clicks. I don't think you will ever drive with it set too high anyway. I sure don't - cause arms to pump bad.

No problems since

Fryboy

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Is it the welds that I have not ground down enough?

I am tightening the bolts as tight as they will go, and when I turn the bars, after 8-10 times I can see the top of the tower wiggling.

Brandon, I think your Scotts unit is made out of KRYPTONITE . Damn im funny, I should've been a comedy writer...... :)......................................... :D

ILMETkrypt.jpg

Seriously though, I can remember when I installed my post that I took a file and really made the top tube very smooth all the way around. It must seat all the way down like Kaze's. All it takes is a little bit of inconsistancy of your file job to have it pop off. I can crank my dampner all the way hard and have it on a stand and move back and forth with no problems. My advice to you guys is to make sure you've done a really good job of filing and make sure that the post ring goes all the way down.

Nice photos Kaze!!

good luck.

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I went through this BS about two years ago with my brand new WR400. I bought the stabilizer from a local dealer, complete with mount kit for the WR400. It came with a bracket to be mounted around the head tube. I had the same problems, it just kept popping off under testing on the stand, even after I filed the weld, the paint, etc. I called Scotts and they told me they had an improved bracket for the WR400. I asked for a trade on the one I had just purchased with the kit. No deal, no discount. So I paid their price for the new bracket. I put in on and tried it, with the same result. Another $60 or so wasted.

Then I bought their $30 "universal" weld-on post. About $200 in fitting and welding, and a few hours of careful painting by me, and it is perfect.

I wouldn't ride without the Scott's stabilizer, but their after sale support and refund policies stink.

I have seen that Scott's now have some weld-on brackets designed specifically for the WR/YZ400/426.

I strongly recommend the weld-on solution. Do it right once and forget it.

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Brandon-

Fought the exact same thing you are fighting! Get the clamp in the spot that you want it, tighten the bolts and tack weld both sides. Problem solved. Did this Saturday morning and raced a GP up at washougal without any problems. Quick & easy solution. :)

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I think I am going to go with the tack-weld solution. Actually, when I called Scott's, they said that if you cannot get it to stay on with the bolts, that the clamp itself might be a little fatigued, and that tack welding or replacing might be the only solution.

They already have enough of my $, so I'll try the cheap way.

Here is how my set-up is looking, and no cracks about the dirt on the bike!! :)

0.jpg

And the other dirty side....

1.jpg

Brandon

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I was having the same problem. My fix was to take the thing lose and clean it all up with brake cleaner. Then I rubbed red loctite on the inside of the "CLEAN" bracket and outside of the steering tube. I tightened it all up using blue loctite on the mount bolts.

So far it's lasted a few races. I think it will hold. It was a fast late night fix. You might know the kind, when you should be resting for the race, not wrenching for the race.

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Like everyone else, I had the same problem with my bolt-on mount. After filing the welds and removing the paint, I cleaned everything with contact cleaner and applied some JB Weld to the mating surfaces. Once everything dried , I attempted to shake it loose on the stand, but nothing moved! It seemed to be the easiest fix. I've ridden the bike for over a year now, on the MX tracks and in the desert, and it has not come loose. :)

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My 99 has the post clamped on the oil dip stick. It's never moved or come loose. TT members seem to have this problem from time to time. The answer is always the same. Has to do with ginding of filing down the welds. Read the directions very carefully. It's the best money you can spend on your motorcycle. Saved my a$$ to many times to count. Maybe you could click the Scotts banner across the top of the page. Sent them your pictures and see what they say?

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Hey Bruce!

Yeah, I just might take you up on that. I have it cinched down new as tight as it will go, and I guess that I was just planning to see how long that lasted. If, or WHEN, it pops off, I'll swing by your house.

I am still waiting for that test ride on the Husaberg!

Brandon

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Brandon

The RED 271 Loctite has worked great for me. It's made it thru 3 crash infested mud races. Ones that have busted bark busted lose. I have bearing retainer that is stronger too. Hopefully the RED 271 will continue to hold.

The way the mount covers the steering head bearing and seal makes me leary of spot welding it. If you need to take the front end apart you will have to grind it down to remove it. Not to mention weld it again.

Like Yamakaze mentioned. Make sure your steering stops are actually stopping the bars from turning. If they aren't the Scotts will run out of travel before they hit the stops. This could damage that expensive SSS. If you are lucky it would just shear the pin.

Good Luck

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