It's cold,don't forget to change summer oil.

Got the pig out to ride monday. It was 23 degrees when i "tried" to start it before leaving for the final stop in the desert. I run a 20-50 syn. blend in the summer and had last changed it in oct. when it was still warm.

It would not even kick over for a full stroke.I thought the kickstarter was going to snap off. Felt like the auto decomp. wasn't working. Finally squirted a little carb cleaner {stop laughing} in the carb intake to get it started and warmed.(I was going riding and nothing was stopping me!!)

Got home and changed out to 0W-40 mobile 1 syn.

Got the pig out to ride monday. It was 23 degrees when i "tried" to start it before leaving for the final stop in the desert. I run a 20-50 syn. blend in the summer and had last changed it in oct. when it was still warm.

It would not even kick over for a full stroke.I thought the kickstarter was going to snap off. Felt like the auto decomp. wasn't working. Finally squirted a little carb cleaner {stop laughing} in the carb intake to get it started and warmed.(I was going riding and nothing was stopping me!!)

Got home and changed out to 0W-40 mobile 1 syn.

I run ampsoil 20-50 and my 650R starts up on those 15-30 degree mornings with a little exta kicking effort and choke:excuseme:

Got the pig out to ride monday. It was 23 degrees when i "tried" to start it before leaving for the final stop in the desert. I run a 20-50 syn. blend in the summer and had last changed it in oct. when it was still warm.

It would not even kick over for a full stroke.I thought the kickstarter was going to snap off. Felt like the auto decomp. wasn't working. Finally squirted a little carb cleaner {stop laughing} in the carb intake to get it started and warmed.(I was going riding and nothing was stopping me!!)

Got home and changed out to 0W-40 mobile 1 syn.

Yeah, it was so cold here, I had to actually put on a shirt. 61 degrees.

Yeah- tuff morning here- I had to work on New Years Day. It was cold when I got in the Car- Outside temp was 58 degrees at 5am thanks to the Santa Ana were having. Yeah tuff day to...I think it only got up to 77 degrees where I work...Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr:p

Aww man.. 61 . 77 . that just sucks. I can't figure why so many people have moved here from california! Actually it wasn't that bad riding.It got up to 31 and sunny. So the dirt was still frozen,(no mud). As far as the bike not starting,it was a little krankie all day, a 3 kick start every time. I think i'll check the valves this week.

Aww man.. 61 . 77 . that just sucks. I can't figure why so many people have moved here from california! Actually it wasn't that bad riding.It got up to 31 and sunny. So the dirt was still frozen,(no mud). As far as the bike not starting,it was a little krankie all day, a 3 kick start every time. I think i'll check the valves this week.

Woke up to 40 degrees in Florida today :busted::D :D being from So Cal this is cold to me! Never have tried to start the bike (my XRR) in cold weather. Running 20-50. You guys say its harder to get the pig fired up in cold weather? Mine fires first kick most times in normal weather. I guess I should try to fire her up and see how my piggy likes this cold front! :banghead::D

im in high desert CA and its been in the 30s and ive ridden when its down into 20s never had a problem so far this winter and i use 20/50 after warm and riding was in the 200 range for oil temp so ill stick with my 20/50 since its running those temps.

Not sure why the oil would make it that extremely hard to kick over though????

One of my Wifes "Blonde" friends came over and asked if I could change the air in here tires from summer air to winter air. Her Dad convinced her it needed done.

im in high desert CA and its been in the 30s and ive ridden when its down into 20s never had a problem so far this winter and i use 20/50 after warm and riding was in the 200 range for oil temp so ill stick with my 20/50 since its running those temps.

Not sure why the oil would make it that extremely hard to kick over though????

thats what i was thinking too.

I change the oil at least once a month, sometimes twice a month. When the bike was new and after the rebiuld four times in one month or I have three big weekend rides in one moneth the oil gets changed three times. If you ride a lot and in the dirt you should be changing oil quite often. I am changing the oil to keep it clean not because it is breaking down.

So, I have 10/40 for months that have an 'R' in them. 20/50 for months with a 'U' in them and 30 weight in May:p

:banghead: Beware of synthetic oil, it can do terrible things to you and your

beloved motorcycle. It will not only leak out of your engine faster

than you can put it in, but it will also cause your oil filter to

clog and implode, dumping debris and dirt into your lubrication

system. It also will make every part of your bike permanently

slippery because of its linear molecular chain dispersion action.

Then it will leak onto your kickstand causing it to retract

automatically, dropping your bike on the ground! But that's not all...

Synthetic oil will round off your gears and spin your bearings. It

will also splatter onto your seat causing your girlfriend to fall off

in the apex of a turn and she'll never ride with you again. Synthetic

oil coats your sight window and your timing window with a whitish

pro-emulsification additive that is both non-removable and highly

corrosive. Synthetic oil will completely leak onto the ground overnight

and your dog will drink it and die.

Synthetic oil will wear out your tires and make your battery leak. It

will give you the desperate need to urinate after you put your full

leathers on and then jam your zippers shut. It will contaminate your

gasoline causing your bike to stall on railroad tracks and accelerate

uncontrollably near police cars. It will make it rain during rallies

and on weekends. It will lubricate your timing belts causing them to

jump teeth and break your valves to bits. Synthetic oil chemically

weakens desmodromic valves and causes the clearances to change every

six miles. Then it melts the black soles of your riding boots right

before you walk across your new carpeting.

While riding past groups of attractive women it will cause both of

your handlebar grips to slip off at the same time so you smash your

windscreen with the bridge of your nose. It also causes your swingarm

to crack, your studs to break, and your rotors to warp, and then it

voids your warranty by changing your odometer reading to 55,555. It

also dries out your wetclutch and wets your dryclutch. It makes your

clutch slave cylinder seal fail in the heaviest traffic on the hottest

day of the year while putting an angry wasp in your helmet for good

measure.

Synthetic oil hides your 13mm socket and puts superglue on your

earplugs. Synthetic oil will scratch your faceshield and make your

gloves shrink two sizes night before trackday. Synthetic oil stole

your neutral and sold it to the Chinese for $1.25. Synthetic oil

will make you grow a tail. Synthetic oil will write long crazy

e-mails to your Internet friends and then sign your name at the

bottom!:busted:

i knew it!

LMAO!

what a donkey!!!

you must like changing oil as much as talking about synthetic LOL

I thought if the bike was water cooled you only had to change the oil yearly? :banghead:

I thought i was having problems the other day starting my bike due to "thick oil" Kicked the darn pig for about 20 minutes.

Then, i found that i hadnt removed my butt-plug(the one in the exhaust thank you)

I thought i was having problems the other day starting my bike due to "thick oil" Kicked the darn pig for about 20 minutes.

Then, i found that i hadnt removed my butt-plug(the one in the exhaust thank you)

Glad you helped me create a different visual!:banghead:

I thought i was having problems the other day starting my bike due to "thick oil" Kicked the darn pig for about 20 minutes.

Then, i found that i hadnt removed my butt-plug(the one in the exhaust thank you)

guess you should have said differently!!lol

:banghead::busted::D :D

Glad you helped me create a different visual!:bonk:
guess you should have said differently!!lol

:D :D :D:ride:

so what do you guys call those things?:banghead::busted::D:eek:

exashsto corkoeious??

Tim McKittrick at ADVrider, who has a wealth of information I'd like to share:

This is the message:

The bike is pretty robust but suffers from inadequate oiling at start

up in cold temps. I will attach a reply as to the fix below- but you

could probably get by with running thinner than specified oils when the

temperture is below 45F and by insuring a good warm-up before riding the

bike.

Re: Oiling Mod for the XL600R

Hi Murgatroid- Here is a bit I wrote up a little while ago- it was

under an XR650L oil pressure thread if you want to see what else was there.

Yes, this is a mod you have to make your own parts for, but it really

isn't that hard if you have a little bit of experience with this sort of

thing. If it looks beyond your capabilities, I will be happy to add

more detail and answer any other questions. If you elect to leave things

as they are, I would reccomend you run a multiviscosity motor oil with

the lowest first number you can find coupled with the approperiate last

number- say a 5-50 or there abouts. Then make sure to warm your engine

completely before riding. I suspect that Honda changed the oil pump

volume as the years have gone on, but I still feel that the below is a

worthwhile mod. Good luck and let me know if I can be of further

assistance.

" I had a lot of problems with cams and rockers on my XL600R motor

(which has the same oiling system) - to the tune of five sets before I

figured it out. You may have had a high speed oiling problem but my trouble

was all start-up related. At lower temperatures (below 50 F) there is

insufficent oil flow to the head through the itty-bitty oil pipe,

leading to oil starvation and gallling. Once the engine produces a little

heat and thins the oil everything is just dandy. The result is your engine

runs for a few minutes with little or no oil to the head every time you

start it up. Much has been written about worn oil pumps and high flow

aftermarket replacement pumps, but there is a better way. I replaced the

line to the head with a piece of Aeroquip braided hose and a few 1/8"

NPT fittings into the case and head and ran the bike another 35,000

miles with nary a problem- and it only required valve adjustment once. And

this was using a high lift cam without hardened rockers

I only deduced the cause of the failures after a local aircraft

mechanic told me about a similar problem with Lycoming airplane engines-

unless properly pre-heated in the winter these engines would gall their cams

in exactly the same way as my Honda, only it cost a LOT more to fix.

After modifying my motor I began ice racing it (in temps down to -20F)

both to prove my alteration was valid and to have a way to play with

bikes in the winter.

I think the oiling to the head is insufficent on all of the Honda RFVC

engines and I would not run one without making the change. I've

modified three engines and none of them have had a subsquent cam or rocker

problem. It's relatively cheap and easy to do, and you will never have to

worry about the top end ever again."

Also this from "XR600 Race cam"

"The quick answer- you tap the case and head to a 1/8" pipe thread and

use a standard pipe to flare fitting (90 drgree bend at the head and a

45 at the case) and attatch the two with a larger pipe- I used Aeroquip

braided stainless hose on all of the engines I've done as it was

available at my local supplier- but you could just as easily use soft copper

and buy all of the parts at Home Depot.

The object is to increase flow by enlarging the pipe- you are replacing

the tiny supply pipe that Honda still fits to all of it's XR600/650

engines. There are some built in restrictions when using the off the shelf

fittings so I don't think you will be in danger of using a pipe that is

too large. I also increased the preload on the oil pump over pressure

spring by streching it about 20%- primarily to increase available

pressure when the engine is cold, (start-up) which seems to be when the most

damage happens.

Be careful when taping the case cover and installing the fitting as the

case is a magnesium alloy and there is not a lot of material there- it

is possible to crack the case and then you will have to make a few

weird parts to set things right- if it comes to that I an send you a few

diagrams. NPT is a tapered jam fit and forces material apart when

tightened- so you need to just get it snug enough to seal. If you apply a wrap

of teflon tape you may not have to tighten it as much to get the seal

you need.

I suppose it would be possible to do all of this with the engine

intact- but I would reccomend taking it apart to make sure no shavings or

chips get into the motor. I also had very good results from polishing the

contact points on the sub rockers where the tappet adjusters hit- use a

sharpening stone to flatten out any grooving or pitting from the

adjuster tip and then buff to a mirror finish. If you can, do the same to the

tips of the adjusters as well. Use a hand stone and don't over heat

things so you maintain the proper tempering. I did my adjusters in a

unimat lathe so I could maintain the radius of the tip- but a drill press

set to it's lowest speed would work as well. This allows you to set the

tappet clearances more accurately, reduces running friction, and reduces

tappet noise.

The last area of failure on these engines is the little end bearing on

the connecting rod- if you find yours has worn significantly the best

bet is to replace the rod (you will need to have a machine shop do this)

with a "hot rods" kit from XR's only or White Brothers. These rods have

a bushed little end which will take more abuse as well as an additional

oiling hole- and the oiling holes are larger. If you want to make a

full house racing motor you can opt for a Carillo rod, but I think the

"hot rod" will suffice for most applications."

another bit of info,

That is great information. I was also suspect as to the volume that the "little chrome pipe" can move. What I found out is that the two oil feed bolts are different. One has a large orifice drilled for it's port, and one has a small, less than 1/8", hole drilled. I opened both of them up to increase flow. But, I will look into running a braided line to the head. This winter (WI) I will start the bike from dead cold with an inspection/adjustment cover off to see if it produces the immediate shower of oil that I am getting now. Thanks, and good riding.

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