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Wes Woodin

Hand Guards

16 posts in this topic

I have never used hand guards, however with materials and technology they are easier to mount and lighter than ever. Who has used handguards and which one are the best! Post some pictures please. :banghead: Thanks Wes

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I'm a fan of the plasticwerks blast shield. They are also sold by other companies for more money under different names, but they are all made by plasticwerks (such as the sunline blast shield or UFO Glen Helen). Many factory teams use these handguards. They are cheap from plasticwerks (http://www.plasticwerks.com/page/page/786558.htm), they are light, and they work well. I don't have many good pics of just the hand guards though:

2007_07020006.jpg

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I'm a fan of the plasticwerks blast shield. They are also sold by other companies for more money under different names, but they are all made by plasticwerks (such as the sunline blast shield or UFO Glen Helen). Many factory teams use these handguards. They are cheap from plasticwerks (http://www.plasticwerks.com/page/page/786558.htm), they are light, and they work well. I don't have many good pics of just the hand guards though:

2007_07020006.jpg

I notice that these don't mount into the bar ends, I kinda like that. I rarely fall, (Knock on wood), Primarily for roost protection. Have you used any others? Bar style? Preche Dude!:banghead:

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I notice that these don't mount into the bar ends, I kinda like that. I rarely fall, (Knock on wood), Primarily for roost protection. Have you used any others? Bar style? Preche Dude!:banghead:

I've never used bark-busters because they are illegal for motocross racing (they are more for harescramble type riding). There is a rumor that they can injur your wriss, though there are very few cases of this actually happening. For years I ran handguards that mounted on the perch itself utilizing a longer pivot bolt. What I quickly discovered was that this resluted in many broken perches, some from slight crashes and some for no appearent reason. So after a couple broken perches I started drilling the holes out larger to slip over the nut and head of the stock pivot bolt and then zip-tied it to the perch. This was very successful. they would stay on in most crashes, and in big crashes they would pop off and hang by the zip-ty instead of breaking the guard or the perch.

Since switching to the style that mounts to the bars I have found that in a crash the gaurd mount will pivot up and hit the perch and cause it to rotate out of the way before the lever can bite into the ground and break. I rarely ever break levers, but now I have gone two seasons without a single broken lever or perch since switching.

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2523259270063133245S600x600Q85.jpg

I like the aluminum ones better ....The plastic ones are great for deflecting cacti,but give on spills, not rigid like the aluminum moose guards..

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2523259270063133245S600x600Q85.jpg

I like the aluminum ones better ....The plastic ones are great for deflecting cacti,but give on spills, not rigid like the aluminum moose guards..

Nice 500:thumbsup:

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I've never used bark-busters because they are illegal for motocross racing (they are more for harescramble type riding). There is a rumor that they can injur your wriss, though there are very few cases of this actually happening. For years I ran handguards that mounted on the perch itself utilizing a longer pivot bolt. What I quickly discovered was that this resluted in many broken perches, some from slight crashes and some for no appearent reason. So after a couple broken perches I started drilling the holes out larger to slip over the nut and head of the stock pivot bolt and then zip-tied it to the perch. This was very successful. they would stay on in most crashes, and in big crashes they would pop off and hang by the zip-ty instead of breaking the guard or the perch.

Since switching to the style that mounts to the bars I have found that in a crash the gaurd mount will pivot up and hit the perch and cause it to rotate out of the way before the lever can bite into the ground and break. I rarely ever break levers, but now I have gone two seasons without a single broken lever or perch since switching.

Didn't know about the motocross rule. The plasticwerks look great! I think I wiil go with them.

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282_8268.jpg

I use the Powermadd flexy mount ones. In the event of a crash, they bend out of the way because they mount to the bars with a plastic material which willingly bends then snaps back into place. I have a set on both of my bikes, and the set in the picture on my YZ400F have been on there since May, and they are still working great.

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If you want rigid and tough for trails, bush, falls, etc then cycra probend with the u clamp is the best I have found hands down and I have used a lot of different kinds. Can be used with or without shields (easily removed) and has two sizes of shields. With the bend on the side they really get out of your way and protect levers better in falls and SEEM less likely to catch your wrist in. Also u clamp gets totally out of your way and gives lots of room for cables, etc. If just for motocross I run asv levers that are spring loaded to break away backwards instead of breaking and some shields by sunline that look like all the others but have a teflon, plastc looking collar inside the mounting so they rotate on falls instead of breaking. Good for roost and small brush but wouln't stand up to smashing the bark off of trees. If this is your first set take note that for the full aluminum ones you will need to cut the end off your throttle tube and grip. Left side grip is easy, a sharp utility knife to cut the entire end off or take a little more time and just cut a circle out of the end to exposed the hollow part of the bars (looks cleaner). Throttle side I cut the end of the grip off with a utility knife then loosen the mounting and slide the tube assembly out just a bit and use a hack saw with a fine metal blade. Don't slide it out too far and don't be rough with it as they can crack easily. I slide it out a touch to avoid gouging into and roughening up the bars with the blade. I use a utility knife or emery cloth to smooth any plastic tags on the inner surface of the tube then remount inside enough that you have a little clearance between the grip/tube and your bar ends to prevent throttle sticking. You don't need to be that precise, most buddies just hack it off and go, depends on your personality.

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282_8268.jpg

I use the Powermadd flexy mount ones. In the event of a crash, they bend out of the way because they mount to the bars with a plastic material which willingly bends then snaps back into place. I have a set on both of my bikes, and the set in the picture on my YZ400F have been on there since May, and they are still working great.

It would seem that when your riding they would move around a lot. They seem very flexible. Is this true?

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I use Cycra Probends, if you buy the racer pack they come with mounts for the triple clamp which is much better than clamping to the bar. In 10 yrs of racing with some pretty herendous get offs Ive yet to break a lever or perch. I even had my bike come off my trailer in the middle of IH10 in Houston and no damage. That was a lesson for using cheap tie downs when raining. I have heard of the wrist breaking thing but I would say its HIGHLY unlikely to happen. These also keep the cold off your hands in cold weather.

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There is a rumor that (barkbusters) can injure your wrists, ...

I heard a rumor that you can actually get hurt and stuff by riding a motorcycle!:banghead:

Seriously, it is possible that your hands could slip through the gap between the grip and the barkbuster's metal loop, and if you did so while going over the bars, the handguard could break your arm as if it were a 200 pound bottle opener. I guess that's a downside, huh?

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I am running the new Pro Taper ones. Had the Zeta ones before that. I only ride moto but they have saved my levers more than a couple times. I as a little nervous about the Protaper ones because they have an aluminum mount but so far so good. The Zeta ones worked good being nylon mounts, just the right amount of give.

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It would seem that when your riding they would move around a lot. They seem very flexible. Is this true?

They move a little when I ride, but never to the point that I actually noticed it while I am on my bike, and the only time I really saw them move at all was when I watched a video of myself riding.

But I have crashed so many times that they have paid for themselves in my book. :banghead:

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