D.I.D. VT chain master link rivit

Let me add one more thing. I had never used a chain like this and never used a tool like this either. This tool didn't have instructions, so I had to figure it out. Now this will be the third time, and I think I got it.:banghead:

believe me ...I usually buy an extra link with a new chain..

if you want I can scan the directions that came with the RK tool...may help. Let me know and I will scan them tomorrow at work and post them up.

believe me ...I usually buy an extra link with a new chain..

if you want I can scan the directions that came with the RK tool...may help. Let me know and I will scan them tomorrow at work and post them up.

Dude, that would be the hook up. :banghead: Thanks W3

What ever you do, do it the RIGHT way and don't take any risks! It costed me $2,000 after my master link came off (installed the right direction) because I guess it was not snapped in all the way and split my case and caused a bunch of other damage.

Dude, that would be the hook up. :banghead: Thanks W3

I'll do it first thing in the morning and post it

What ever you do, do it the RIGHT way and don't take any risks! It costed me $2,000 after my master link came off (installed the right direction) because I guess it was not snapped in all the way and split my case and caused a bunch of other damage.

It was a clip type master link not a rivet type master link that you had a problem with right?

Just for a little contrast, I have never had a clip type master link fail, beginning from 1966. My '03 has had two masters in it for more than two years.

Just for a little contrast, I have never had a clip type master link fail, beginning from 1966. My '03 has had two masters in it for more than two years.

me neither! Since 1980

wes-check your pm's

I've never had a clip type masterlink fail. I put one on backwards once, but it didn't even fail then (found it after a weekend riding).

I really don't understand the benefit to using the rivets. Seems like there is just too much potential for the rivets to loosen and release the masterlink, or over tighten the tool when installing and damage the masterlink.

With clips, once they are on, they stay on. Plus, they are a lot easier to remove/replace in the event that you have to take the chain off (tire changes anyone?).

Just my thoughts.

Ok...my experience with regular clip type links has been the same no issues in the past hmmm 15 years or so...but

If you order a DID ERV3 or VT they come with a rivet link...there is no option for a clip link, at least where I ordered my chain. So I'm not ordering a rivet chain link because I think they are better then a regular clip, that's just what I have on my current chain.

Plus, they are a lot easier to remove/replace in the event that you have to take the chain off (tire changes anyone?).

You don't really open the chain to drop the rear wheel, do you? Pull the axle, slide the wheel forward, and roll the chain off to the outside. Doug Henry's crew swapped a standard Yamaha rear wheel in 26 seconds at the SF X-Games Super Moto. I'm pretty sure nobody touched the master link. :banghead:

It appears to me that a rivet type link would hold better. OTOH if it's not installed correctly then it's worthless just like any other type? I don't know what happened to my clip link but I thought it was on correctly when it was installed from day one (had about 5 hours on it)?

The most common mistake, outside of just buying a low quality chain, or putting the clip on backward, that people make with clip links is to fail to completely press the outer plate onto the pins. This leaves the clip groove too narrow for the clip to seat correctly, and weakens its ability to hold the plate on.

Most contemporary, high grade chains require that the master link be pressed together with more force than most people can muster up with a pair of pliers, and some kind of clamp is needed in most cases. There are actually tools that are made specifically for this.

The link must be assembled so that the inboard edge of the clip groove is flush with the outer plate, and the assembler should be able to insert the edge of the clip all the way to the bottom of the groove freely. Otherwise, you're asking for trouble.

Remember this little jingle when putting on the clip..."little fishy swims up stream" Something my dad told me when i was little, always remembered it

I watched the guys at Honda add a few links to a chain for me last night and press it on.

They did the rivit thing and the the master link was pressed on with a special tool like you mentioned Gray.. oh yeah and at first the mechanic had fishy going down stream till workshop manager comes and puts him straight... scary.. But it is working perfectly. Like you said there was some real pressure required to get it all on. Talking DID Xring..

You don't really open the chain to drop the rear wheel, do you? Pull the axle, slide the wheel forward, and roll the chain off to the outside. Doug Henry's crew swapped a standard Yamaha rear wheel in 26 seconds at the SF X-Games Super Moto. I'm pretty sure nobody touched the master link. :banghead:

I could probably do that with my 426 (never actually tried it), but the lower chain guide on my 490 is actually split by the rear sprocket and the chain has to come off to remove the rear wheel (that or unbolt the chain guide and fumble with it also).

At any rate, I'm not trying to set any speed records, and I use the opportunity to give my chain a thorough cleaning and inspection. I use a stiff nylon brush and simple green to scrub all of the dirt off and then give them a good lubing with PJ1 and let them dry before reassembly.

No muss, no fuss and very little dirt and grime build up.:busted:

wes-check your pm's

I really appreciate it. This helps. Thanks. How bout I send you a shark fin for free. PM me you address.:banghead:

I could probably do that with my 426 (never actually tried it), but the lower chain guide on my 490 is actually split by the rear sprocket and the chain has to come off to remove the rear wheel (that or unbolt the chain guide and fumble with it also).
Shove the wheel forward, roll the chain off the top and back of the sprocket, and then lift or roll the wheel off the bottom run of chain where it lays in the guide.

You may find a number of reasons to remove your chain, I don't. Mine stay on until they wear out, which is a very long time with the chain I use. But one day when your chain is already all spruced up, you may want to just fix a flat or swap tires and not be bothered by the chain. This works.

Not to get off topic but.... Is there an aftermarket fastener that doesn't require a 27mm+/- wrench to remove the rear axle nut? Some kind of quick release? Would be convenient not to have to carry a large enough tool for changing flats.

Not to get off topic but.... Is there an aftermarket fastener that doesn't require a 27mm+/- wrench to remove the rear axle nut? Some kind of quick release? Would be convenient not to have to carry a large enough tool for changing flats.

Rather than highjack a thread, start a thread and ask. :banghead:

Shove the wheel forward, roll the chain off the top and back of the sprocket, and then lift or roll the wheel off the bottom run of chain where it lays in the guide.

You may find a number of reasons to remove your chain, I don't. Mine stay on until they wear out, which is a very long time with the chain I use. But one day when your chain is already all spruced up, you may want to just fix a flat or swap tires and not be bothered by the chain. This works.

Through my research I have not been able to find this. What is the proper amount of pressure to flare the rivets enough so the master won't come off? 5lbs,10lbs,inch pounds?:banghead:

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