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seamus1618

WR400 Dual Sport?

4 posts in this topic

Hi guys great forum you have here, really informative.

I've found a lot of threads discussing the legality of dual sporting the WRs but not too many on the technical details of such a project.

I'm in the process of doing this project for myself but have run into a few problems with the brake lights.

I'm trying to convert the bike with the minimum amount of changes as possible and I'm trying to keep from buying one of the conversion kits.

Where should I mount the hydraulic switch for the brake lights and where could I get a hydraulic switch with a metric thread pattern?

Everything I've found so far that is already a part of the banjo bolt is in standard sizes. I would rather not have to use a T going to a standard hydraulic switch.

Also once the switch is hooked up, how do you wire the brake wire up to the rear light?

I'm trying to this without using a battery as it is not required in my area.

Any help as to how to do this and where I could find the parts I need would be a great help.

I hope I made my problem relatively clear and I hope this isn't a repost.

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TT store Pro Cycle ( http://www.procycle.us/ ) and any shop that can order from either Tucker-Rocky or Parts Unlimited can get a Hydraulic brake light switch that replaces your banjo bolt. The switch is made by K and S. They run about 18 bucks, and, at least in my experience are pretty unreliable, so buy two. As far as wiring it in, the rear light is already a dual filament bulb and socket, with the brake light wire ending inside the plastic sleeve that covers the harness. Just tap into the headlight power wire before the on-off switch (so it's hot all the time), connect that to one side of the brake light switch, and the other side of the brake light switch to the wire in the rear harness. Poof Instant brake lights. With a different switch and a few connectors, you can make the stock headlight a hi/lo beam light as well.

Do you need a horn and turn signals in the great state of Texas? If you do, things just got a whole lot more work as you will have to float ground on the lighting coil and get a regulator/rectifier to provide DC.

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Thanks for the help.

As far as blinkers go, they are not needed in Texas as long as you use hand signals.

And for the horn I was planning on mounting a loud bicycle horn to pass inspection and then taking it off for riding.

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TT store Pro Cycle ( http://www.procycle.us/ ) and any shop that can order from either Tucker-Rocky or Parts Unlimited can get a Hydraulic brake light switch that replaces your banjo bolt. The switch is made by K and S. They run about 18 bucks, and, at least in my experience are pretty unreliable, so buy two. As far as wiring it in, the rear light is already a dual filament bulb and socket, with the brake light wire ending inside the plastic sleeve that covers the harness. Just tap into the headlight power wire before the on-off switch (so it's hot all the time), connect that to one side of the brake light switch, and the other side of the brake light switch to the wire in the rear harness. Poof Instant brake lights. With a different switch and a few connectors, you can make the stock headlight a hi/lo beam light as well.

Do you need a horn and turn signals in the great state of Texas? If you do, things just got a whole lot more work as you will have to float ground on the lighting coil and get a regulator/rectifier to provide DC.

What size hydraulic brake light switch do I need, the 10 x 1.25 thread right?

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