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2001YZF426Rider

front brakes still soft..

38 posts in this topic

I just put a set of supermoto wheels on my 426.. I also installed a SS Galfer line, 320mm EBC disc, and relocator bracket.. I couldnt bleed the brakes, but finally i got them to work but they still are softer then i would think they should be, especially with that oversized disc..

I tried the normal, pump a few times, hold, crack screw, close screw, release lever, and repeat.. But it doesnt seem to be helping..

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What works best for me is gravity bleeding. Take the reservoir cover off, be sure it's filled, and tickle the lever through just the first millimeter or so of travel to dislodge any bubbles that may be stuck directly under the fill port. Then, crack the bleeder and simply let the fluid run through the system, keeping the M/C filled as it goes. You should soon see a few bubbles pop out through the bleeder. Close it, tickle a couple more times, fill it as needed, and you should be done.

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I just put a set of supermoto wheels on my 426.. I also installed a SS Galfer line, 320mm EBC disc, and relocator bracket.. I couldnt bleed the brakes, but finally i got them to work but they still are softer then i would think they should be, especially with that oversized disc..

I tried the normal, pump a few times, hold, crack screw, close screw, release lever, and repeat.. But it doesnt seem to be helping..

I've never had luck bleeding the brakes on our bikes the old fashioned way. So I tried a vacuum bleeder and it took less than 1 minute to get all the air out.

Don't over-look the master cylinder itself. Earlier this year, my wife was complaining about her front brake not being strong enough. I tried bleeding it a few times and it still sucked. I ended up getting a rebuild kit for the master cylinder and the brake now works like new.

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I found that on the front brake especially, you have to do it like 1,000 times to get all the air out. A few tricks, bleed the hell out of them, then zip-ty the lever down to the grip and let it sit overnight. The next day, take off the zip-ty and as hard as you can flick the brake line with your finger starting from the top down. Then bleed like normal again. This has always worked for me.... Good luck!

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Well i forgot to mention that i used a syringe and back bled the brakes, but doing it that way, when i force the fluid through the bleeder, should i crack the lever while im pushing the fluid in, or leave the lever alone?

I did this, and got pressure, but its not as good as it should be.

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Well i forgot to mention that i used a syringe and back bled the brakes, but doing it that way, when i force the fluid through the bleeder, should i crack the lever while im pushing the fluid in, or leave the lever alone?
Leave the lever alone. In that position, the fluid has a direct path from the caliper to the M/C reservoir. If you pull the lever more than the first little bit, you close the reservoir off from the system.

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Leave the lever alone. In that position, the fluid has a direct path from the caliper to the M/C reservoir. If you pull the lever more than the first little bit, you close the reservoir off from the system.

That is where i went wrong! I cracked the lever about 3/4'' I will try it leaving the lever alone..

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That is where i went wrong! I cracked the lever about 3/4'' I will try it leaving the lever alone..

DOOOOOOOOOOHH!!:thumbsup:

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Stillsun, how much vacuum do you use? I was helping a friend, and even though we barely had the bleeder open, I thinlk we were getting air past the threads. Is this possible?

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Here's my procedure from memory so it may be missing some finer details:

1) Remove reservoir cap.

2) Place box wrench onto bleeder valve so that you can easily open close it.

3) Clamp rubber hose from vacuum onto bleeder valve with worm type clamp so you know for sure it's not sucking in air from the outside.

4) Build up some vacuum before opening the valve (it should hold since you've used the clamp)

5) Open the bleeder valve slowly, before your vacuum reaches zero close it back off.

6) Top reservoir off, start back at step 4 and repeat as necessary, usually twice gets it.

Hope this helps.

Josh

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What pads are you using??? I found ebc and galfer pads to feel really spongy even when the braking system was perfectly ok. This was especially true with either brands black colored pads vs a more metallic looking pad.

A switch to Honda CR front pads made them feel great.

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What pads are you using??? I found ebc and galfer pads to feel really spongy even when the braking system was perfectly ok. This was especially true with either brands black colored pads vs a more metallic looking pad.

A switch to Honda CR front pads made them feel great.

Hey thats new to me.... what cr pads will fit? Is this for a 426?

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Hey thats new to me.... what cr pads will fit? Is this for a 426?

Most all of the newer bikes use the same front brake pad.

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Most all of the newer bikes use the same front brake pad.

Do you remeber what you used? Also did you use OEM or aftermarket? Thanks!

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Do you remeber what you used? Also did you use OEM or aftermarket? Thanks!

I personally use the $10 pads from Rocky Mountain. They are cheap and perform very well. :thumbsup:

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Whenever I use the vacuum bleeder, I get air in the bleed line due to air coming down around the threads of the bleeder screw and back up the bleeder hole. I never know if it's all out of the brake system because there's always air in the bleeder hose line. Any advice? Do others see this also?

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