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jaredc28

Engine Gasket????????????

12 posts in this topic

Ok, used the search function without great results...and need help!

I have the engine (93' 650L) out of the bike and am trying a DIY gasket change on the gasket located below the cam and cam chain (not sure what the gasket is called). I have the Clymer manual (which I think sucks) and it says to remove the cam and chain before removing the next engine piece (sorry I am not familiar with the names of these items and I don't want to confuse anyone).:busted: My problem is that I cannot get the allen bolts lose on the cam sproket!:thumbsup: and everytime I try to pry it harder the engine rotates and makes it impossible to losen.:lol:

Another side note: when I finally get the cam out and losen the chain, will the bike have to be re-timed? The shop wants $200 plus just to look at it-bastards...:ride: and I think this is a do-able project "with a little help from my friends"!! Sorry couldn't help the irony...:busted:

Much appreciated in advance!

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Ok, used the search function without great results...and need help!

I have the engine (93' 650L) out of the bike and am trying a DIY gasket change on the gasket located below the cam and cam chain (not sure what the gasket is called). I have the Clymer manual (which I think sucks) and it says to remove the cam and chain before removing the next engine piece (sorry I am not familiar with the names of these items and I don't want to confuse anyone).:busted: My problem is that I cannot get the allen bolts lose on the cam sproket!:thumbsup: and everytime I try to pry it harder the engine rotates and makes it impossible to losen.:lol:

Another side note: when I finally get the cam out and losen the chain, will the bike have to be re-timed? The shop wants $200 plus just to look at it-bastards...:ride: and I think this is a do-able project "with a little help from my friends"!! Sorry couldn't help the irony...:busted:

Much appreciated in advance!

i assume you are wanting to remove the valve cover and change the metal gasket? or the actual cylinder head gasket?

since you are pulling the cam sprockett off, i will assume the cyl. head gasket and not the larger valve cover gasket.

i put a ratchet on the crank bolt(thru the left case cover) and rotated the eng. forward to loosen the cam sprockett bolts one at a time.

before you do that, put the piston at TDC and mark the sprockett to the chain. and i also marked the sprocket to the head.

these 2 bolts have medium loctite on them(put some on when going back together)

remove the tensioner.

then use some bailing wire to hold the chain/sprocket to the frame rail above it. dont let the chain come off the crank sprockett!

its an easy job and we will help. just make sure to mark everything!

TDC is when the cam lobes all point downward at an angle.

i should also say to hold the engine from turning with the ratchet on the crank, then lossen the bolts.

you could also try a little heat to melt the loctite, a soldering iron maybe.

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also, when reinstalling the tensioner you can compress the spring and wrap it with wire and install. then cut the wire out. good luck and just ask any other ?.:thumbsup:

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Thanks for all the help guys! I bought a socket hex set last night, broke down the rest of the motor, and pulled the head gasket out...The top of my piston and the bottom of my valves were just covered in carbon soot... I scraped and brushed most of it off...Is this normal for a piston that probably only has 3,000 miles on it??? Remember I am the guy with the huge deto problem...so confused!

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Thanks for all the help guys! I bought a socket hex set last night, broke down the rest of the motor, and pulled the head gasket out...The top of my piston and the bottom of my valves were just covered in carbon soot... I scraped and brushed most of it off...Is this normal for a piston that probably only has 3,000 miles on it??? Remember I am the guy with the huge deto problem...so confused!

that excess carbon could have been causing a "carbon knock". whats your jetting like?

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I will probably take the bottom apart now to see if the carbon has done any damage.

I have one more question...with the head gasket, is it necessary (or advantageous to use gasket seal with the metal head gasket, or head cover gasket? I bought some "MotoSeal" that is resitant up to 400 degrees and is for uneven joint surfaces. Since I had a leak in the head gasket before, may this be a good insurance against it in the future?

Thanks for your help!

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I bought some "MotoSeal" that is resitant up to 400 degrees and is for uneven joint surfaces.

You may need something different. I bet that the head can exceed 400 degrees F. I would try and find something like hi temp silicone that can take 600 to 700 degrees F.

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I have one more question...with the head gasket, is it necessary (or advantageous to use gasket seal with the metal head gasket, or head cover gasket?

Thanks for your help!

The head gasket and the head gasket sealing surfaces on the cylinder and the head should be completely clean and free of oil/grease and old gasket material. No sealant is necessary and just might cause the gasket not to seal properly. A thin coat of RTV on the cover gasket is OK.

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+1 on cleonard and creeky.

400 is not high enough. i took my L on a good 20 mile ride in the summer then got back home and took my IR temp gun to the head. i saw temps as high as 550.

no sealant needed. although i did use toyota's formed in place gasket(FIPG) on the cyl. head cover when i did my hotcam... no leaks at all.

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