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btray

x-ring vs. o-ring

11 posts in this topic

what's the differnece between the two and best bang for the buck

thanks Bill

The main difference is how they seal. The O-ring seals only at one point. The X style seals at 2 points. Because of the two sealing points, the X style seals a little better than the O style. The X-ring is a little more expensive to make than an O-ring so a X-ring chain is more expensive.

I've used both and can't tell much difference in performance or chain life. I'd get a regular O ring chain and save a few bucks.

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There would be 2 reasons why the alphabet seals would theoretically work better; better sealing and less drag.

The problem of drag caused in a chain by seals at the joints is grossly exaggerated, and has never been demonstrated to be significant in any dyno test I've seen, in the first place, so if eliminating that drag isn't a big deal, how important can reducing it be? There's more to it than the seal form anyway. The DID X ring that was on my old YZ250F when I got it was far stiffer than the oldest Regina O-ring chain I currently own.

Proof that they seal better would come, it seems to me, in the form of longer chain life. But the O-ring sealed Regina ORN6 chains that I run already last so long that the top and bottom edges of the plate wear down to the edges of the O-rings from the sand and dirt on the guides, so extending the life of the internal pivots won't really help me in any way.

I'm with 642MX here. I don't see the need to spend the extra money on it when I can get a couple of years out of a chain now.

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There would be 2 reasons why the alphabet seals would theoretically work better; better sealing and less drag.

The problem of drag caused in a chain by seals at the joints is grossly exaggerated, and has never been demonstrated to be significant in any dyno test I've seen, in the first place, so if eliminating that drag isn't a big deal, how important can reducing it be? There's more to it than the seal form anyway. The DID X ring that was on my old YZ250F when I got it was far stiffer than the oldest Regina O-ring chain I currently own.

Proof that they seal better would come, it seems to me, in the form of longer chain life. But the O-ring sealed Regina ORN6 chains that I run already last so long that the top and bottom edges of the plate wear down to the edges of the O-rings from the sand and dirt on the guides, so extending the life of the internal pivots won't really help me in any way.

I'm with 642MX here. I don't see the need to spend the extra money on it when I can get a couple of years out of a chain now.

Gray, i hear you talk so much about the ORN6 that i may just try one next time. I have been using the DID ERVT2 , the one that alot of roadracers use when they wan't to switch from a 530 drive to a 520. I have over 120 hours on my 06 with that chain and only had to adjust it three times. I liked it so much that i put one on my 08. Whats the price on the Regina anyway?

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o-ring it will be...I'm thinking tag sprockets and the orn6

thanks guys...still getting use to what works on these 450's

headig out to Red River Friday AM for three days of riding in wet and cold weather...we are die hard old guys that dont hunt but love to ride

Bill

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motosport messed up in their TAG rear sproket advertisement and stated the rear to be steel and the front to be alloy...so I'm looking at Turner Ultralight steel rear

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motosport messed up in their TAG rear sproket advertisement and stated the rear to be steel and the front to be alloy...so I'm looking at Turner Ultralight steel rear

You may want to check out the Primary Drive chain and sprockets from Rocky Mountain MC. I've been using them for a couple years with no problems. They last just as long as the big name brands at a fraction of the cost. I bought my last set for under $60, (O-ring chain & 2 steel sprockets). :thumbsup:

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I just took a look to see what the current price is.... $57.99 is hard to beat for a set of chain and sprockets (plus you get some free swing arm decals). :thumbsup:

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