Chain Adjuster Problems

07 YZ450F, Everytime I ride/race the chain adjuster bolt on the right side will back off of the block, anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 inch. They are tight and I do not want to go too tight and wreck the threads in the swingarm. Any ideas on how to prevent this, locktite, zipty blocks, ?????

Thanks in advance.

Toby

Are the jam nuts missing? If they are not there then you will not get this to stop. I would not recommend locktite on these bolts as they have a tendency to sieze all on their own. Hope this helps.

Josh

07 YZ450F, Everytime I ride/race the chain adjuster bolt on the right side will back off of the block, anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 inch. They are tight and I do not want to go too tight and wreck the threads in the swingarm. Any ideas on how to prevent this, locktite, zipty blocks, ?????

Thanks in advance.

Toby

I highly recommend the Zip ty chain adjusters. Very trick.

The jam nuts are still there and I tighten them before every ride and tighten the bolt to the chain block and the one side still comes loose. I saw the picture of the zipty blocks but dont understand how they are different from a stock setup.

Thanks

Toby

I saw the picture of the zipty blocks but dont understand how they are different from a stock setup.

Thanks

Toby

They're prettier, and the markings are finer. They won't help this problem.

As you tighten the lock nuts, do you hold the adjuster bolt tightened against the axle, or do you let it turn a little with the nut right at the last? How much torque are you putting on your axle? Do you torque the axle first, or lock the adjusters first? When you read the blocks, do you read the marks from front to back, or back to front?

They're prettier, and the markings are finer. They won't help this problem.

As you tighten the lock nuts, do you hold the adjuster bolt tightened against the axle, or do you let it turn a little with the nut right at the last? How much torque are you putting on your axle? Do you torque the axle first, or lock the adjusters first? When you read the blocks, do you read the marks from front to back, or back to front?

I tighten the axle first then tighten the bolts to the blocks the then lock nuts last. I dont put a torque wrench on the axle nut yet, no socket big enough. When i tighten the locknuts I hold the bolts with a 10mm after I have snugged them up to the blocks. I dont read the marks, I use calipers to measure the distance.

Thanks for the help.

Toby

When you run the bolts up against the axle, you push them forward aagainst the threads in the swing arm. When you tighten the lock nuts, that pulls the bolts back against the threads in the swing arm. If there is a fair amount of thread clearance, that can cause a conflict. It can end up where the bolt is jammed against the axle by the lock nut, but is "floating" in the swing arm threads. I the axle shifts at all, the tension on the bolts is gone.

Try either of these two things:

Lock the adjusters down, and then push the wheel forward (running a rolled up rag between the chain and sprockets is one way) and tighten the axle. Or,...

Snug the adjuster bolt against the axle, but allow it to rotate clockwise (with the nut) about half a flat as you tighten it to compensate for thread clearance.

The first method works the best.

Thanks for the help, I will try both the next few times I ride and hope for the best.

Toby

They're prettier, and the markings are finer. They won't help this problem.

As you tighten the lock nuts, do you hold the adjuster bolt tightened against the axle, or do you let it turn a little with the nut right at the last? How much torque are you putting on your axle? Do you torque the axle first, or lock the adjusters first? When you read the blocks, do you read the marks from front to back, or back to front?

The Zip ty blocks I have are the ones that have the adjuster bolt built into the block. The adjuster bolt threads into the swingarm. There is no way they can move.

So the bolt is built into the block and then it spun into the swingarm. This sounds like it is what I need if grayracers fix does not work.

Thanks

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I have the same exact problem with my 07 450f. It only started when I installed Tusk axle Blocks????? I Don't see how that has anything to do with it but I go through the same sequence as you and my right side always backs off??????

I have the same exact problem with my 07 450f. It only started when I installed Tusk axle Blocks????? I Don't see how that has anything to do with it but I go through the same sequence as you and my right side always backs off??????
Same sequence as who?

As Tonyb

"I tighten the axle first then tighten the bolts to the blocks the then lock nuts last. I dont put a torque wrench on the axle nut yet, no socket big enough. When i tighten the locknuts I hold the bolts with a 10mm after I have snugged them up to the blocks. I dont read the marks, I use calipers to measure the distance.

Thanks for the help.

Toby"

Just for fun, try it my way. :thumbsup:

Will Do!!

BTW, your sequence worked great GreyRacer!

BTW, your sequence worked great GreyRacer!
:cool: Works for me, too.

Worked great for me also, rode it for the first time last week after doing it your way and the adjuster did not back off once. Thanks

They're prettier, and the markings are finer. They won't help this problem.

As you tighten the lock nuts, do you hold the adjuster bolt tightened against the axle, or do you let it turn a little with the nut right at the last? How much torque are you putting on your axle? Do you torque the axle first, or lock the adjusters first? When you read the blocks, do you read the marks from front to back, or back to front?

Gray, I have the zip ty blocks that thread directly into the swingarrm. Are these the ones you are referring to? They aren't just replacement blocks you use with the stock adjuster bolt and nut. Ooooops, i just saw DPW's photo!!!!!!! Yeah,,,,Those are the ONES I have. Except i only use the blocks themselves, not the rest of the stuff.

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