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Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40


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I have been using "Regular" (Non Motorcycle) Mobil 1 15-50 for years In all my bikes. My Desert racing buddies who ride xr650's and crf450's all used it as well. i used to buy to $$$ Motorcycle only oil until i switched to Mobil 1 15-50. NOTE: I have had zero engine or clutch problems. NONE!

Wal Mart, 1 Gallon for $21 bucks.

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I have been using "Regular" (Non Motorcycle) Mobil 1 15-50 for years In all my bikes. My Desert racing buddies who ride xr650's and crf450's all used it as well. i used to buy to $$$ Motorcycle only oil until i switched to Mobil 1 15-50. NOTE: I have had zero engine or clutch problems. NONE!

Wal Mart, 1 Gallon for $21 bucks.

Yeah, and Oscar Myer Balogna is perfectly good for you. It's not the brand, it's the product. Motorcycles need ultra-high shear strength oil, and ester based is the best. Regular car oil will work. Bologna is food. Neither are healthy.

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Everyone has their opinion re: oils. My opinion is that the Mobil 1 is great. I ran an '87 XR250 (Later bored to 280) as hard as an XR can be run. The motor was still in great shape when sold in 2003. On the '02 650R, did a "Break-in" period with a couple changes of HP4 (Some say that you don't need to do the break in anymore because new engine manufacturing technology makes it unnecessary - but, why take chances?). Then switched MX4T, or sometimes the Vtwin 20/50 when it's approaching 100 deg. F outside or entering a desert race and it's hot out. What leaned me toward Mobil 1 is two things: 1.) if you look at their web site compared to most others, things are explained in detail, and they work with manufacturers closely on R&D 2.) the motorcycle specific oils don't have friction modifiers, which might damage the clutch on our XR's. I've never had a clutch problem. I can say I've run the motors hard, and just never had a problem. Am I wasting a couple bucks on oil each change? Who can say, but I'll stick with Mobil 1 Synthetics in all vehicles.

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I'm a po boy,and I use Rottella 15W40 in my XRL.I tryed several different motorcycle oils.The less expensive motorcycle oil does not allow my trans.to shift smoothly.The 15W40 shifts smooth,as I'm sure the more expensive m/c oil will.A diesel engine is a more stressfull engine.If it's good enough for a diesel that will go a million miles between over hauls,it's good enough for my XRL.The XR's run a high temp.,so I change my oil more often than recommened.It would cost me a small fortune to run a $10.00 a quart m/c oil.

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Best oil? If you run a motorcycle oil that is API SG/JASO MA, you won't go far wrong. Beyond that, the synthetics have lots of advantages over plain old petroleum oil, and the group V ester synthetics have advantages over the other two types of synthetics (group IV PAO like Amsoil and Mobil 1, and group III like Rotella).

Some ester synthetics are RedLine, Maxima Extra and Ultra, Klotz, and Motul. They are all pricey.

Some good reads: http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/index.html

http://www.belray.com/scripts/futurearts.dll?CollectBinaryData?loc=belray&coid=55180&moid=20156&fauuid=efb44def-7b6c-4e19-84f0-5594ab9a336a

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avlube.com sells mobil 1 4t oils. i've change all of my bikes, and my atv over to mobil 1.1500 street miles on my 650l with yamalube r, the oil looked like it had been in the bike for for 10000 miles too many. 2000 miles with the mobil 1 4t 10w40 and i was wondering why i was changing it . it looked almost new. ?

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  • 8 years later...

I have been using "Regular" (Non Motorcycle) Mobil 1 15-50 for years In all my bikes. My Desert racing buddies who ride xr650's and crf450's all used it as well. i used to buy to $$$ Motorcycle only oil until i switched to Mobil 1 15-50. NOTE: I have had zero engine or clutch problems. NONE!

Wal Mart, 1 Gallon for $21 bucks.

 

I do not understand how that is possible. I have put car oil (synthetic and conventional)  in my bike and the clutch slipped right away. The I realized what I had done, and switched the oil over to motorcycle specific oil. I now use Mobil1 10w40 4T or Rotella T6 5w40. Both are great and no clutch slippage ever.

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Does the W weight matter right now?  Who is cranking their XR at ambient 0 in late July 2016?  Then, riding it?

 

Be more concerned with the XR engine at temperature viscosity of your oil and its sheer stabilty.  

 

Right now in the continental USA, any quality branded xxW-40 will run just fine.

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Does the W weight matter right now?  Who is cranking their XR at ambient 0 in late July 2016?  Then, riding it?

 

Be more concerned with the XR engine at temperature viscosity of your oil and its sheer stabilty.  

 

Right now in the continental USA, any quality branded xxW-40 will run just fine.

its not only engine oil but trans oil too. i think thats where it gets chopped, pounded, sheared and ground up the most. i think if your only talking 2 qts of oil why not buy the best available? as opposed to paying hundreds for damaged parts the best oil available is cheap compared to time and money wasted on engine damage and lost riding time.

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You want to talk about shearing, grinding and pounding, I have an RC51 that has a completely gear driven, flat tappet valve train. I use Shell Rotella T in there, in my XRL, my XRR, my lawn mower, my snow blower, and anyone else who's oil I change. ZERO issues, hot, cold, dyno tuning, 10,000 RPM shifts on my RC. The diesel oils have much more additives including ZDDP, which regular motor oils and motorcycle oils have less. I need this for my flat tappet cams. This is the first oil debate I've chimed in on, you can run whatever you want in your bike, the main thing is to change it often, check it often, and never use ANY oil that has "energy conserving" in the JASO (Japanese Automotive Standards Association) printed on the bottle.

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