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ubu

A new 08 450 for me

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I rode a friend's 07 Honda CRF 450 a couple of weeks back and loved the power delivery (compared to my CR250 2-stroke). So, I started checking out 4-strokes. I checked out Hondas and Yamahas. Honda was offering some pretty decent pricing for 07 models, but I was a little gun-shy from reading about valve issues. I took home an 08 Yamaha Saturday night. The dealer wasn't offering much of a price break for 07 models, and I liked the wider pegs, shorter exhuast, and the slightly different front end. The white was only $100 more, and I haven't been much of a blue guy, so buying the white right away was less expensive than changing plastics later. I also had them install a skid plate and fuel screw (I had no idea what the fuel screw was, but 2 of the parts guys who have 06 and 07 models highly recomended it, I see why now, the factory one is a pain to get to) I finally got out of the dealership after talking snowmobiles with my salesman for an hour while the techs preped my new toy. (he knew nothing about bikes, I talked to the parts guys about the bike) I also bought three oil filters and 3 quarts of Yamalube. The parts guys said to switch to Bel-Ray Thumper Lube after three changes.

I went to the track yesterday after the rain stopped (complete with factory warning stickers and all). Once I got the bike started and caught my breath (I thought I had strong legs, but this bike is slightly more difficult to kcik over than my 2-stroke, but I'll get used to it) I took it easy, runing it in low gear for a few minutes, then through all gears at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle for about an hour, like the manual says, along a desert trail and a few laps around the track. According to the manual, the next step is "operate the machine through the entire operating range" I wasn't sure about that one, so I left with one hour of light duty operation, a little dust on the bike, and a slightly darker header pipe.

While my 2-stroke is definetly a blast to ride... I'm sure I'm faster around a track on my new thumper, even taking it easy on the bike. The new bike always goes forward and straigt, no wheel spin, and a little more confidence off the jumps for my beginner abilities.

I was a little concerned about the engine noise. Maybe it was still a bit tight, because it seemed quieter after riding a while. The FAQ says these bikes tend to be a little noisy.

I want to take care of this bike. So, any advice given on break-in, maintenance, carb settings, etc, I'll be glad to hear. Or just a "welcome to Blue" will suffice.

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Glad to hear that wwe converted you! You no longer ride for the dark side!:ride:

Just do the basic maintinence.

Change oil

Clean air filter

Check valves

and enjoy the thumper!:thumbsup:

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yamaha 4 strokes do have noisy engines but i have also noticed that the chain also makes noise (slapping noises) once you work out how to start it usally starts 1 or 2nd kick

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Mine was a bear to start the first time, jetting was way off. The other day I went to the track with it, it's a month old, and it started cold on the 2nd kick and almost ever other time 1st kick. Remember it's more of a hard push than a sharp stab like is done with 2 strokes.

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Forget everything you know about chain adjustment and learn the 'looks too loose" setup for this bike. The chain should just touch the rear swingarm slider bolt when pushed down firmly (while on the stand). Ignore this and you risk grenading the rear hub.

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2 things you should get for your new bike. Pick up a new x-ring or o-ring chain.. your stock sprockets last you twice as long then... the stock chain is junk. For your oil filter I would go to a Comp Flow filter, it pays for itself after a few oil changes.

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With a skid plate the bike tends to run with a lot more engine noise. My bike would start almost always on the second kick. Also, you don't have to kick it hard, just nice and smooth.

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Yeah, the chain looks way loose. I almost took it upon myself to tighten it, but I decided to read the manual first. I might add that I think the manual is quite impressive.

I'll definitly look into the Compflow since it's reuseable. The 3 Yamaha filters I bought were $15 each.

As time allows this week, I'll probably spend some time getting to know the bike better. The front wheel spokes losened up a lot on the first ride. I've heard the factory puts junk grease in the swingarm, linkage, and steering head, so I'll re-grease those. Only 1 hour on the oil, but I'll change the oil and filter anyway. And, work on getting those pesky warning stickers off the rear fender.

Thanks for the tips. Keep them coming.

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The Comp Flow and Ready filters I looked at a while ago had less filter media in them than a Scotts (number and depth of pleats), the Scotts has a welded seam, the other two were folded. The Comp Flow had an Allen screw holding the bypass valve in on the premise that it could be removed for cleaning. There is no need to remove the bypass valve in a Scotts, since it never really opens, and this should be true of the Comp Flow, too. So what's the big deal? Screws fall out. I know of two instances where this happened, leaving the oil unfiltered for an unknown period. The "fancy cover" lacks the stub extension that prevents the unintentional reversed installation of the filter. Overall, I wasn't impressed.

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Like an earlier poster said...take the chain off the bike and toss it in the garbage. It is a cheap chain and will eat your sprockets. Buy a good quality chain like a Regina ORN6 and you will save a ton of money in the long run.

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The Comp Flow and Ready filters I looked at a while ago had less filter media in them than a Scotts (number and depth of pleats), the Scotts has a welded seam, the other two were folded. The Comp Flow had an Allen screw holding the bypass valve in on the premise that it could be removed for cleaning. There is no need to remove the bypass valve in a Scotts, since it never really opens, and this should be true of the Comp Flow, too. So what's the big deal? Screws fall out. I know of two instances where this happened, leaving the oil unfiltered for an unknown period. The "fancy cover" lacks the stub extension that prevents the unintentional reversed installation of the filter. Overall, I wasn't impressed.

Thanks for that info Gray. I haven't had both filters in my hand before so my only comparison would be pictures. So this Allen screw you mention falling out, this was on a comp flow filter? If so, I have to watch out for that.

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So this Allen screw you mention falling out, this was on a comp flow filter? If so, I have to watch out for that.
As I recall, yes, but it was an earlier one, and they were making a big deal of it being a "feature". If you don't know about it, they may have stopped doing that. Next time you have yours out, look though the oil outlet port to the other end of the filter. If they still use it, there will be an Allen set screw facing straight out at the outlet hole. Supposedly, you can remove it and dump out the bypass valve and spring. But then again, why?

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As I recall, yes, but it was an earlier one, and they were making a big deal of it being a "feature". If you don't know about it, they may have stopped doing that. Next time you have yours out, look though the oil outlet port to the other end of the filter. If they still use it, there will be an Allen set screw facing straight out at the outlet hole. Supposedly, you can remove it and dump out the bypass valve and spring. But then again, why?

Ok thanks. I'll check into it next oil change and post up what I see in there.

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The Comp Flow and Ready filters I looked at a while ago had less filter media in them than a Scotts (number and depth of pleats), the Scotts has a welded seam, the other two were folded. The Comp Flow had an Allen screw holding the bypass valve in on the premise that it could be removed for cleaning. There is no need to remove the bypass valve in a Scotts, since it never really opens, and this should be true of the Comp Flow, too. So what's the big deal? Screws fall out. I know of two instances where this happened, leaving the oil unfiltered for an unknown period. The "fancy cover" lacks the stub extension that prevents the unintentional reversed installation of the filter. Overall, I wasn't impressed.

Ready filters/ Comp flow are Garbage!!! I've seen not one but TWO Crf motors trashed because of that "trick" cover. If you look at the "trick" cover and compare it to the stock one you will see why.

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Ready filters/ Comp flow are Garbage!!! I've seen not one but TWO Crf motors trashed because of that "trick" cover. If you look at the "trick" cover and compare it to the stock one you will see why.

You mean the tiny little oilways, I'm guessing? I failed to point that out.

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Ready filters/ Comp flow are Garbage!!! I've seen not one but TWO Crf motors trashed because of that "trick" cover. If you look at the "trick" cover and compare it to the stock one you will see why.
You mean the tiny little oilways, I'm guessing? I failed to point that out..

UNCLE, UNCLE! OK, I give. I'll get a Scotts (after I use up the three $15 Yamaha filters)

So, guys, what's the best oil.:thumbsup: I've got 3 quarts of YamaLube 10-30, which should be fine for the colder weather, right? Guys at dealership said switch to Bel-Ray Thumper lube semi-synthetic after those first three changes. Rotella and Chevron Delo 15-40 are cheap and Wal-Mart's always open.

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