Race start.

Anyone have a picture of the blue/white wire disconnect?

I might be able to post a few pics of the switch I wired up. The blue/white wire is in the same six pin connector as the grey wire. It is blue/white on the cdi side of the connector and blue/black on the other side.

Yes I do...

:busted:

+1

I have had this mod for a few rides now and love it.

I need picks of a switch in place if anyone has them. This may be the mod that I am missing from a new love affair with a blue bike. It wants me to Love it. It puts the lotion on its skin...

I need picks of a switch in place if anyone has them. This may be the mod that I am missing from a new love affair with a blue bike. It wants me to Love it. It puts the lotion on its skin...

I don't know why anyone would switch it.... just unplug it :busted:

I know this is a bit of an old thread now , but here in the frozen north, the ground is becoming visible again and we are now riding in the dirt. My buddy has the same bike as mine ,but with very few mods (he believes the bike comes from the factory in a ready to ride state, I will work on him some more :excuseme: ) , anyway he was wondering yesterday why my bike turned about 1/2 revolution and was running everytime while his seemed to crank 3 or 4 revs before it caught. I told him it was a secret that I would employ on his bike if he would let me finish the mods that need to be done. I believe this mod will increase the life of the starter, because (this is the important disclaimer part) on a properly jetted bike that has been warmed up by initially starting with the kicker when cold, the starter is doing far less work than it does with the blue/white wire connected. This mod is a no brainer and like SJMC Don has stated, there is no reason to switch back IMHO. Thanks again for bringing this info to the masses Thumperbloke :confused: WR Dave

rbn14 did this mod for me w/the switch mounted stealth like inside the whole on the side plate exhaust side. The thing I have found is my bike starts more reliable in the stock mode while I'm trail riding (I'm Not in a big hurry). Race day, I use the switch and so far it does fire up on the start line like a KTM. This last race had deep snow and I crashed a bunch, and the bike didn't want to start as easy, until I switched it back to the stock mode. Great for race starts when everything is perfect, but nice to have a switch when your riding like a gimp. Jeff S

Getting back to the race start situation for a second, those using the e-start would do well to set the bike up for the start by pulling the bike back in gear until it comes up against compression. This will give the engine 1 1/2 turns and a fresh intake stroke before it hits compression, and should help it get lit quicker.

Im a little confused by what you are calling up against the compression and why would you have to get it to that point by putting it in gear and pulling the bike back?

Couldnt you just get it to that point with the kick starter?

And am I wrong in thinking this is the point that you bring it to the top of the stroke with the kicker?

And does anyone have a picture of this plug?

I am racing an event in a week that has a dead enging start and would have a much better result in I were in front of everyone

Im a little confused by what you are calling up against the compression and why would you have to get it to that point by putting it in gear and pulling the bike back?

Couldnt you just get it to that point with the kick starter?

And am I wrong in thinking this is the point that you bring it to the top of the stroke with the kicker?

And does anyone have a picture of this plug?

I am racing an event in a week that has a dead enging start and would have a much better result in I were in front of everyone

He's saying that you should get the piston just past TDC so that the starter will spin the engine easily and complete an entire cycle before hitting compression. You could do it with the kickstarter, but you would likely end up with it farther past TDC.

I am not sure button & kick would even make a diff.

i find my bike very hard to start with the button...

but 1/2 kick and she is going.

cheers

Warts

Something to keep in mind regarding the auto decompressor in these bikes, too, while we're on this, is that the decomp pin retracts at only about 600 RPM or less. The starter doesn't turn the engine faster than that, but it is actually possible to kick the engine through so rapidly that the decomp pin retracts and the engine comes up against the full compression stroke instead of the partially relieved stroke it's supposed to have.

I disconnected the blue and white wire from the plug.

My bike took longer to start.

Could it be that Im not jetted correctly?

I warmed it up

I feel its jetted pretty close. Runs like a bear.

Im riding an event next week that I feel this could be an advantage if it works

Glad I didnt clip the wire.

For anyone that is thinking of disconnecting it, the plugs come out of the plastic harness piece pretty easily

has anyone but me disconnected the wire and it didnt start quicker?

Is my jetting too rich?

Could I have disconnected the wrong wires? I seem to be the only WR that this didnt work with

Could I have disconnected the wrong wires?
What color was the wire on the HARNESS side of the connector?

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