install airbox on carb?06 yz 450

I removed my subframe and air box on my 06 yz 450 but am having a tough time getting the rubber boot to slide back onto the carb. The frame and shock are in the way. anyone have a solution short of removing rear shock?

patience and finesse... it is a pain in the ass..... shoot the boot lip with some carb cleaner and it helps it slide on some...

I take the top bolt out of the shock and that gives you a good half inch of play with the shock to slide it on, takes a few more minutes but it certainly makes it easier.

I removed my subframe and air box on my 06 yz 450 but am having a tough time getting the rubber boot to slide back onto the carb. The frame and shock are in the way. anyone have a solution short of removing rear shock?

You need to loosen the airboot clamp all the way till the last thread, spray some silicone spray on the rubber boot and try to push the inside of the boot on the carb first. You'll know when its all the way seated because your subframe assy. will just hang off the carb with no bolts installed yet. Another way is to get everything lined up and push the subframe forward and slide the top mounting bolt in, then you can use a thin pick or flatblade to peel the boot lip over the carb. It gets easier the more times you do it.

wd40 works to. it wont mess up the carb and the engine will burn any excess off. but its a pain in the arse. i normally pull the airbox out of the subframe so its lighter and you dont have to fight it as much. trying to move the large subframe/rear fender combo can be a chore. like was said earlier, it takes a few extra minutes, an 8mm t-handle and it can save you many choice words (unless you just like using them anyways... :] )

Its a pain. Just take your time and watch what you're doing, you'll get there.

I was surprised how much more of a PIA this was to do on my 450 compared to my YZ250. One more (albeit tiny) thing about a 450 thats harder to work on than a 2-stroke.

Two things I recommend to add to what's been said.

Use carb cleaners rather than silicone or WD40. CC's evaporate more rapidly and completely (Brake cleaners do this too rapidly to be useful), and leave the surface of the boot slightly tacky for a brief time, which helps it seal. The other stuff leaves an oily residue that may contribute to the boot slipping off.

Make up a custom "hose hook". Take an old awl, or just a piece of good stiiff rod with a dull pointy on it, and bend the last 1/2 to 3/4" at a 90 degree angle. You may also want to add a curve to the shank so that it makes it possible to reach over the carb to the back side. The hook is slid under the boot to "shoe horn" it into place.

The easiest way that I have found is to loosen the clamp between the carb and the engine and then you can rotate the carb to the left on its vertical axis just enough the get the airboot on past the shock. Then push everything back into place, check to make sure both are on all the way and tighten both clamps. It actually goes on pretty easily that way.

Man, Glad I found this thread! Doing some late night wrenching. Been mainly riding YZ250's for years but picked up an 06 YZ450. What a pain!

Going back for round 2 with the above tips.

The easiest way that I have found is to loosen the clamp between the carb and the engine and then you can rotate the carb to the left on its vertical axis just enough the get the airboot on past the shock. Then push everything back into place, check to make sure both are on all the way and tighten both clamps. It actually goes on pretty easily that way.

This worked for me instantly combined with a little WD and making the clamp as loose as possible.

Thank God for TT!

In the future, don't use WD-40 for this kind of work. It stays oily too long, which can contribute to the boot slipping off or rocking out of position and leaking, and it can attack the rubber (which really should be able to tolerate that, but I'm speaking generally).

A carb cleaner like Berryman's B12 is a better choice, since it will serve as a lube only briefly, then evaporate, leaving no significant residue. Brake cleaners evaporate too quickly in most cases.

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