W00T! W00T! Just ordered a Scotts Performance Stabilizer for my L

[Old Dog]

I've wanted one for a while, but the price has kept me from ordering one. I just got a new Visa Gold Card that I have to "break in", and the Canadian Dollar is doing better than ever, so I finally broke down and ordered the complete "bolt on" kit for the XR650L. While I was at it I ordered an FMF Hi-Flo header for it too.

Now all I'll have to do is keep the Visa bill away from the wife and I'll live long enough to install and enjoy them! :worthy:

Has anyone here had any experience with either or both these mods on an L?

[Brtp4]

I just finished this a while ago.

Did you get the kit wit the upper clamp or just the damper?

If you got the damper kit that bolts onto the stock upper, this is an easy mod.

If you got the kit with the new upper clamp, there is some additional work, or money, or both involved.

BP

[Old Dog]

I got the $449 full meal deal kit. It's supposed to be %100 bolt-on and only take a mechanically inclined person around 45 minutes to install (it better have everything I need to install for that price!). I've also got a set of 7/8 909 CR High Bend bars that I plan on installing at the same time.

[Denn10]

want to see pics ive only seen ones that they had to bend crossbar on bars to make it fit.

[Old Dog]

Will do Denn

Only thing is, you might have to wait a bit (until next March at the earliest), because bike season ended here about a month ago (we've had about a foot of snow and sub zero temps since the end of September). I've got my bike stored in a Garden Shed for the winter (you take what you can get), and there's not a lot of room to do any kind of serious mods ...... not to mention it's not heated.

[Brtp4]

Unless they have changed things, it is not a bolt on. The guys at Scotts told me the same when I ordered mine, which is untrue (and I think they know it). The stock upper clamp has an area that is extended/threaded to attach the instruments and headligh bracket to. The Scotts clamp does not have this area, and does not really have enough material to locate it or attach it properly.

To fit the stock light and instruments, you have to have spacers made, drill the clamp, and bolt the assy together before putting the clamp on the fork.

Another solution is to eliminate the stock headlight, and substitute an aftermarket one like a Baja designs. This makes it easier to mount the instruments and takes a a couple pounds of weight off the front, which is what I did.

So, unless they have changed the design since I bought mine (last spring) it is not a bolt on. What seems lame is that they seem to be mis-representing it just a bit.

Overall it is a good mod though, and helps the fact that the stock forks flex so badly.

BP

I got the $449 full meal deal kit. It's supposed to be %100 bolt-on and only take a mechanically inclined person around 45 minutes to install (it better have everything I need to install for that price!). I've also got a set of 7/8 909 CR High Bend bars that I plan on installing at the same time.

[Old Dog]

Another solution is to eliminate the stock headlight, and substitute an aftermarket one like a Baja designs. This makes it easier to mount the instruments and takes a a couple pounds of weight off the front, which is what I did.

Thanks for the heads up BP.

It's a good thing I've already replaced my stock Headlight with an Acerbis Cyclops then. Should I still have to make a special bracket for the instruments? The way it is now they're only held on by the rubber mount underneath. I had to modify it by cutting off the side brackets that held the stock headlight so I could mount the Cyclops.

[Brtp4]

That's good, it will be easier then. A little more info:

1) You need to drill two holes in the front edge of the clamp for the instrument bracket, in approx the same location as they are on the stock bracket. Then you can use the stock bracket that holds the instruments to mount them up.

2) Since you don't have the stock light any more, you can use the stock spacers for the instruments. The effect of this will be that the guages are closer to the bars, and tucked in more. Much better.

3) If you can, I suggest that you JB weld the nuts for the instrument mounting bolts onto the underside of the clamp. This is optional, but will make it easier to take the instrument bolts on/off.

4) Since you have an aftermarket headlight, you do not really need the stock headlight bracket any more. You have to organize the wiring a bit, which I did by re-routing through and tucking into the large rubber wiring cover.

5) I also removed the lower headlight/horn bracket that goes between the fender and the lower triple clamp. This meant losing the horn, which for me was worthwhile, and took a little more weight off.

6) The key switch is another issue, and I forgot to mention it. There is no way to mount the OE switch in the stock location, which means the steering lock function is lost. You probably could make a bracket to mount it somewhere else, but it is huge, heavy, and w/o the steering lock function not really useful. So, you should find another small key switch as a substitute. I am guessing that one off a small scooter would be good, light, and easy to mount.

7) I bought the Baja Designs aftermarket switch, which is a MISTAKE. It fits great and comes with a bracket, but is wired "backwards" and DOES NOT really work for an L. It works like a kill button, when you turn it OFF it closes (completes) the circuit, turning it ON OPENS the circuit, which is the OPPOSITE of how the stocker workes. So, when I turn the switch off, the circuit closes and the bike is....on....which is still not a problem, except that this is the position that allows you to remove the key. If you are still following this, note that the bike is running, you can remove the key....but when the bike is off.....you can't. I still need to resolve this, so let me know what kind of switch you find.

8) You lose the headlight bracket, horn, lower headlight bracket, and the stock key switch. Doing all this took off about 3 more lbs and cleaned up the control area.

9) Also, I know it is personal preference, but you probably want the highest bar bend you can find. Initially I got a Windham model, but they gave the sensation that it would be easy to get pitched forward, and the high bars I got are WAY better.

All of these details are actually pretty easy, the key to it is ditching the stock headlight. Once you have done that, everything else is pretty simple.

BP

Thanks for the heads up BP.

It's a good thing I've already replaced my stock Headlight with an Acerbis Cyclops then. Should I still have to make a special bracket for the instruments? The way it is now they're only held on by the rubber mount underneath. I had to modify it by cutting off the side brackets that held the stock headlight so I could mount the Cyclops.

[Old Dog]

7) I bought the Baja Designs aftermarket switch, which is a MISTAKE. It fits great and comes with a bracket, but is wired "backwards" and DOES NOT really work for an L. It works like a kill button, when you turn it OFF it closes (completes) the circuit, turning it ON OPENS the circuit, which is the OPPOSITE of how the stocker workes. So, when I turn the switch off, the circuit closes and the bike is....on....which is still not a problem, except that this is the position that allows you to remove the key. If you are still following this, note that the bike is running, you can remove the key....but when the bike is off.....you can't. I still need to resolve this, so let me know what kind of switch you find.

What about using the Baja Designs ignition switch bracket with the stock ignition switch?

[Brtp4]

The stock switch mounts differently and is too heavy for this.

I think if you watch ebay or look at mc salvage shops you can find something cheap.

What about using the Baja Designs ignition switch bracket with the stock ignition switch?

[Old Dog]

I think I might have found a couple of options.

http://www.cyclepages.com/ProductGroupDisp.aspx?ProductGroupID=4600485 (This is a "Universal" ignition switch that can handle 6 or 12 Volt systems)

http://www.cyclepages.com/ProductGroupDisp.aspx?ProductGroupID=4600192 (This is a two position "round key" ignition switch)

http://www.cyclepages.com/ProductGroupDisp.aspx?ProductGroupID=4600190 (This is an ignition switch for old NX and XL bikes (79-93) )

I think I'll probably order the Baja Designs switch just to get the bracket, then try a couple of these switches.