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jaseleesh

wr450 for road use????

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i was thinking about buying a 06 wr450 for mainly road use and was just wondering if it will be able to cope? or will i be forever fixing things what sort of problems could i be faced with? thanks

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Are you going to motard it? If not, it won't be a real comfortable ride. Knobbies on the road will work, it's just far from ideal.

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good question. Im interested in this as well. Would say 5000 miles per year on the road = huge servicing costs?

I'd say not really. Just becasue oil change, oil change, oil change.

I cant say it enough. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive. Change your oil.

That aside, you may not want the WR for mostly road riding if you have to go on highways. It just doesnt have alot of weight behind it, combine that with how tall it stands, and you have a recipe for being blown around at faster speeds.

The sacrifice with a factory enduro is just that though. TOO HEAVY. Just doesnt have the zip you want on the trail, or the weight you want to be lifting when you drop it.

I ride 80% on the street (with nobbies) and I would say my service costs are cheaper then those who ride purley off road.

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I'm far from expert, but here's what I think. I have a WR426 and a DR650. The DR is my Super moto, and the WR is my trail bike. The thought of having the low end power of the WR on the road and the idea of clutching up a wheel in 4th gets me pretty excited, but the thought of changing the oil/air filter after every ride seems to null that out a bit. I'm happy with the DR on the street, but I still think of how bad ass it would be to have super moto wheels on the WR every time I get it on pavement. Tough choice...go ahead and spend the money on new hubs with SM rims and tires; then you'll have two bikes.

BTW...Easy for me to recomend spending money when it's not my money.

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The WR is NOT a good street bike, period. In my opinion, of course.

The TPS is especially annoying.

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my 2007 wr 450 dual sported , has been treating me great so far . I'd like to make a few minor changes . but for now its fine ,I just don't go on highways .the gearing is too low .I'd like it better if at 70 mph the engine was turning the rpm's it does at 55 mph . or so. I have had it up to 97 mph and it was still speeding up . but the rpm's were sky high . as far as changing the oil all the time , I'm going to add a oil tank.

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I sold my DRZ400s and got a plated '05wr. I would say it's about 90% as good of a street bike as the DRZ and 40%-50% better in the dirt.

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i have the same question for my 07 , ive been trailering where i can to avoid the asphalt but it means a lot of backtracking to the car to go home, where i could easily complete the ride with a 100 or 150 km ride on the bitumen and get home in a complete loop.

Sometimes a ride may have 100 km sections of paved roads between great 200km dirt sections. Should i have a cushioned hub or maybe a slipper clutch , or would just steady riding on the asphalt avoid gearbox troubles. I know i really need a dual sport adventure bike , but they use WRs and CRXs in the Australian safari and some sections are over 700 km long just in one day. Any ideas?

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i have the same question for my 07 , ive been trailering where i can to avoid the asphalt but it means a lot of backtracking to the car to go home, where i could easily complete the ride with a 100 or 150 km ride on the bitumen and get home in a complete loop.

Sometimes a ride may have 100 km sections of paved roads between great 200km dirt sections. Should i have a cushioned hub or maybe a slipper clutch , or would just steady riding on the asphalt avoid gearbox troubles. I know i really need a dual sport adventure bike , but they use WRs and CRXs in the Australian safari and some sections are over 700 km long just in one day. Any ideas?

As long as your not on the freeway for extended periods of time, no worries. I do in town pavement all the time, often on one tire:busted:

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So 1 to 2 hours on the freeway is no good?

What does it do exactly to the bike and how can i prevent it? Or rather how do i set the bike up or operate it to make it ok?

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i just completed my switchover to on road (07 wr450), and would concur about the top speed/rpm issue.

it loves to run 50 - 55 in fifth gear out of the powerband. i am about to drop a tooth on the countershaft to help out a bit. will post results when complete.

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I've also got a 07 wr450 ds .It's geared too low for 55 mph too be a cruising speed .I would say it likes from 43-47 in high gear now . I've got two sets of rims so I'm going to put 15/48 on my straight road set . and the stockers on my dirt rims. I'll keep you posted if it does not get too cold . I've also noticed that a slipper clutch would most likely help the gas mileage too . and a external oil tank would cut down on the weekly oil changes. after all that if you'd add a set of stainless valves your service costs should go way down

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I havent installed it yet

But I have read about and bought a clutch basket from a 450 quad. The primary gear has springs to absorb the shock from the road. Im sure its not a good a cush hub but its cheaper.

I have no problems with the TPS. My bike was a little to lean and it stuttered. I rejetted and no problems at speed at all.

The bike could use another gear on the road. I had stuffed a 16t counter in it an it worked out fine. Too tall off road with a 50t rear. Its a dirt bike. Cant make it something it isnt. Ill can deal with it being uncomfortable or the gearing as long as I dont have to truck my bike.

I have a temp gauge on my speedo. I have to block off one radiator if Im doing alot of road riding. Its tough to get it up to temp.

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I've also got a 07 wr450 ds .It's geared too low for 55 mph too be a cruising speed .I would say it likes from 43-47 in high gear now . I've got two sets of rims so I'm going to put 15/48 on my straight road set . and the stockers on my dirt rims. I'll keep you posted if it does not get too cold . I've also noticed that a slipper clutch would most likely help the gas mileage too . and a external oil tank would cut down on the weekly oil changes. after all that if you'd add a set of stainless valves your service costs should go way down

Interesting about the SS valves. Many people have said that to me. The reason i bought my 07 WR was due to the Ti valves. Ti after all is a very solid, tough material & should utterly smoke the SS valves in terms of life span. Does yamaha actually bother to harden the valve lobes on these Ti valves? (like on SS) Why do they wear out and need adjusting? When my valves need shimmed I will strip the head and fit some yamaha ti valves that I have had personally hardened (the lobes). It might cost a few bob more, but so what, It will be a job done properly. Oh, I was going to buy an 08 YZF R125. I think I will take my money elsewhere...

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I have an 06 and it rides great on the road. I live 6 miles from work and part of the route is on a highway it definetly rev's alittle high when you are going over 65 MPH but if you are traveling that fast for an extened period you should be all right.

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Sounds like people want the best of both worlds and, in my expereince, you just can't have that in the current WR. Trail gearing is too low for the road/highway; road/highway gearing is too high for the trail. Good trail tires get eaten to bits on the road, while SM tires won't cut it on the trail. Don't forget that sitting on the stock seat for 30 minutes can mean a hospital visit. I say 2-3 slow miles (40-50 top speed) on pavement to get to the trailhead is all you can expect on the stock WR, and the highway is basically a no-no (where the speed limit is 75 mph). The bike simply doesn't feel stable in the wind at high speed (80 mph with 18 wheelers buzzing by). My '02 426 is dualsported for convenience (linking trails) and an occasion town cruise when the tire is worn, but that's about it.

My $0.02.

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My wr450 is plated. I rode it around town quite a bit. I burned through tires and had no traction when I got to the trails. I rarely ride it in town anymore because I'm tired of killing the rubber. If you buy supermoto wheels to swap out you may get more satisfaction. If you want an around towner buy an old ds or cheep street bike. I want a Ninja 250 to get around town on. They are cheep and get great gas mileage. just not alot to choose from oput here

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Sounds like people want the best of both worlds and, in my expereince, you just can't have that in the current WR. Trail gearing is too low for the road/highway; road/highway gearing is too high for the trail. Good trail tires get eaten to bits on the road, while SM tires won't cut it on the trail. Don't forget that sitting on the stock seat for 30 minutes can mean a hospital visit. I say 2-3 slow miles (40-50 top speed) on pavement to get to the trailhead is all you can expect on the stock WR, and the highway is basically a no-no (where the speed limit is 75 mph). The bike simply doesn't feel stable in the wind at high speed (80 mph with 18 wheelers buzzing by). My '02 426 is dualsported for convenience (linking trails) and an occasion town cruise when the tire is worn, but that's about it.

My $0.02.

Couldn't agree more with this post. It's almost like you can just feel the tires breaking down on the street.

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no one has mentioned the biggest limiting factor for road use.

After an hour or two at constant speed sitting on the edge of a breadboard that yamaha calls a saddle you will be squirming and wanting to have a break.

Its a very uncomfortable bike at constant speed. If the road is twisty you forget about the discomfort.

My back tire was new 600 miles ago and is just about 3/4 rooted.

cheers

Mark

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