Rekluse, 07 yz450, instructions suck

I have just put on the Rekluse Z-start on my 07 YZ 450. I checked the final adjustment and the clutch still grabs at idle. I see no explanation after the statement in the manual on the 07 of a specific gap so I used the general one.

What is the final gap for the 07?

I am still getting the low rpm stalling with the Rekluse.

I wrote their web page and all I get back is an error message.

I removed the clutch perch also and have the spring only on the release lever.

Yes there instructions do suck for the yami, not to the point between the different years. I just stuck to the basics unless it says otherwise. I set my gap at .032 between the standard .030 to .042 and it works fine. My friends 06' kept stalling when he first installed it so we turned the ide up just a bit and that corrected it.

Mine was stalling a lot on my 07 WR. I had to turn up the idle pretty high for that to go away. Once the idle is up the grabbing seems to go away. BTW: I have to ride my bike for a good 10 to 15 minutes before it stops stalling when I hit the rear break. The instructions were very confusing to me at first, but once I understood how it all goes together it made sense.

As for the gap, use the little wire feeler that were provided. That part was pretty straight forward in the instructions.

If you have any questions, I would just call them directly. Their customer service is one of the best I've ever encoutered, that's not an exaggeration.

Once you get things dialed in, you will love your Rekluse!

If the bike is farely new it could be your install gap is to tight. That was my problem and they shipped a thinner drive plate. If you can get your install gap around .035 you will be good.

Thanks guys for the quick response.

I have it at about .035, used 2 feeler gauges, no wire provided with the unit I got.

The bike is about 6 months old, and still using the original tire.

I am just worried that if it doesn't disengage the clutch will burn out.

I have to turn off the bike to find neutral, then when I put it in 1st the bike immediately jumps forward, not hard. If I get my weight off the bike it starts rolling. I have played with different rpms with no luck.

I am going back through the Yamaha manual to make sure I didn't mess up some where in the reassembling of the clutches.

Thanks again

Thanks guys for the quick response.

I have it at about .035, used 2 feeler gauges, no wire provided with the unit I got.

The bike is about 6 months old, and still using the original tire.

I am just worried that if it doesn't disengage the clutch will burn out.

I have to turn off the bike to find neutral, then when I put it in 1st the bike immediately jumps forward, not hard. If I get my weight off the bike it starts rolling. I have played with different rpms with no luck.

I am going back through the Yamaha manual to make sure I didn't mess up some where in the reassembling of the clutches.

Thanks again

A couple things about the Rekluse...

They like Rotella 15W40 oil, it does make a difference in the engaugement. They do offer a stronger wave spring thats available, just call them and they will probably send it to you for free (helps with the creeping). Stalling at low speeds isn't the clutches fault if your gap is correct. Spot on jetting is very important with auto-clutches. You actually need to be a little on the lean side. And make sure you disconnect the factory return spring on the actuator arm. Most people overlook this step and it will cause the clutch to never hold the correct pressure on the clutch pack.

And also, they do take a period of time to break in and function well. A little creeping with probably go away after the first ride.

I experienced all the same problems you did with my '06. After sending my carb to zip-ty it fixed 90% of the stalling. The other 10% was caused by the gap being just a tiny bit on the tight side. Try widening the gap closer to the middle of the range instead of the tight side.

I was able to fix the stalling by increasing the idle to the point where the idle would actually hang sometimes when you closed the throttle, and by tightening the adjuster nut so the rpms needed for engagement were higher. These fixed the symptoms, (the stalling), but it didn't actually fix the problem, (installed gap to tight.)

First guys, are we talking about the Z-start, or the Z-start pro.

I have the Z-start .

I removed the factory clutch and perch all together.

I am going to change the oil on the bike though. Currently I have 20-50 Mobile 1 motorcycle oil.

I will replace it 15-40, MX4 racing oil.

Currently I know nothing about the Rottella oil.

Is this made for cars with friction modifiers?

I bought the Z-start to use on trails like the 5 miles of hell Trail.( going again this week end)

I have used the clutch on about 3 long rides so far.

The gap (.035) is in the middle for this bike.

I will change the oil first then see if it makes a difference.

If not I'll call the manufacturer.

Thanks again

First guys, are we talking about the Z-start, or the Z-start pro.

I have the Z-start .

I removed the factory clutch and perch all together.

I am going to change the oil on the bike though. Currently I have 20-50 Mobile 1 motorcycle oil.

I will replace it 15-40, MX4 racing oil.

Currently I know nothing about the Rottella oil.

Is this made for cars with friction modifiers?

I bought the Z-start to use on trails like the 5 miles of hell Trail.( going again this week end)

I have used the clutch on about 3 long rides so far.

The gap (.035) is in the middle for this bike.

I will change the oil first then see if it makes a difference.

If not I'll call the manufacturer.

Thanks again

I was talking about the standard z-start. I've had one for almost 3 years know. I have the perch adjuster, but its not much different than your set-up.

Shell Rotella is actually made for diesel engines, but it works great in just about everything (dirt bike, pressure washer, mower, ect..). And Rekluse recommends it.

If your clutch plates where used when you installed the z-start, then run your gap a little farther towards the loose end of the spec. Old clutch plates swell when hot, causing your current gap to shrink which maybe causing some of the stalling/creeping.

I was just reading about the different oils. Including Rotella. What a bunch of advertising B.S.

Makes sense what you just described about the plates swelling with the heat.

It did get worse after warm up.

I will replace one of the pressure plates and open the gap.

I think I will try the Rotella oil also.

Thanks a lot

And make sure you disconnect the factory return spring on the actuator arm. Most people overlook this step and it will cause the clutch to never hold the correct pressure on the clutch pack.

Make sure you also do this (if you haven't already), it's a very important step.

Both of our 07 450's do not have a return spring on the actuator arm.

I ended up using a mic to messure the actual disc thickness, and put 2 of the rekluse disk back in it. The gap cold, is now very close to .042.

I will be taking it in the desert in a little while and test it again.

i have both clutches in both my r's.......pro on 07 and genlll on my 03.......run rotella and love'em

I have just put on the Rekluse Z-start on my 07 YZ 450. I checked the final adjustment and the clutch still grabs at idle. I see no explanation after the statement in the manual on the 07 of a specific gap so I used the general one.

What is the final gap for the 07?

I am still getting the low rpm stalling with the Rekluse.

I wrote their web page and all I get back is an error message.

I removed the clutch perch also and have the spring only on the release lever.

my manuel said like remove plates and add plates but you end up losing a plate with their directions. so! i made my own way! rekluse instructions are TOTAL BS CRAP im very disappointed with them im ready to go on a Spree of some sort, but you will need to spend some time fooling with it. i have it my own way, and it works alright aslong as the bike is on the throttle a bit at all times. except when i first start her up. someone said to remove the weak wave spring and get a larger one??? they will send it for free????that will elminate creeping up to a big log and hoping over it without it stalling?

my manuel said like remove plates and add plates but you end up losing a plate with their directions. so! i made my own way! rekluse instructions are TOTAL BS CRAP im very disappointed with them im ready to go on a Spree of some sort, but you will need to spend some time fooling with it. i have it my own way, and it works alright aslong as the bike is on the throttle a bit at all times. except when i first start her up. someone said to remove the weak wave spring and get a larger one??? they will send it for free????that will elminate creeping up to a big log and hoping over it without it stalling?

I got my heavier wave spring for free. But, it sounds like you need to take your bike to a shop and have your Rekluse installed properly first. I don't want to be mean, but the instructions are not hard to follow. And if you have trouble reading them, then find someone to help you.

I called rekluse and asked about the heavier wave spring. The phone tech said that the heavier wave spring worked the same as tightening the external adjuster nut on the clutch actuator arm. The wave spring increases the rpms needed for engagement of the clutch which is exactly the same thing that can be accomplished by tightening the adjuster nut. I asked then why do you even make it an adjustment option and he said that sometimes people are desperate for options so they make it available because it can work for some people. I just left it at that I didn't want to argue the point that, ya it works but why go through installing the heavier wave spring when you can do the same thing with the adjuster nut?

Any way, they offered to ship me one for free but after talking to him about the stalling symptoms he said it sounded like the gap was too tight. The instructions say to "use the largest feeler gauges that will slide in and out with slight resistance" That is some pretty subjective instructions for someone who hasn't used feeler gauges before. So I ended up widening the gap a little which cured the stalling problems.

I rode the 5 Miles of Hell Trail yesterday with the Rekluse.

It made a big difference on the climbs, this was for the better.

The bike stalled a few times on climbs and it took a little the find the point where the clutch engages in order to maintain good control.

This was much better than using the manual clutch.

Now it also took some time to get use to the fact I have no back pressure on descents. Forget blipping the throttle on these tight extremely technical trails, it is not going to happen.

I liked riding the trail better with the Rekluse than without.

They need a professional technical writer to help with the instructions.

Also they need to invest into a good quality copy machine. My instructions looked as if they were copied by a cheap 1985 grocery store copy machine, that was running out of toner.

You would think, if they spent the time and effort to write instructions, and print them, they would make sure it is as high a quality as the product they are selling.

Thanks for all the help.

Thanks for all the help.

Your welcome. I'm glad its working for you. You may want to lean the fuel screw 1/4-1/2 turn if its stalling on occasion.

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