Electric Output Stator for 06-07 YZ450F - UPDATE

you won't lose any power. they add a totally different circuit in.

there will be 2 new wires coming out of your ignition cover. wire in a voltage regulator in parallel to keep voltage at 12V. my Electrosport stator came with a very simple schematic. I assume the Moose one will also. It is VERY BASIC wiring setup - very easy, like grade school level. Whatever setup you get I can email you the picture/schematic

are you also gonna add battery to it?

you won't lose any power. they add a totally different circuit in.

there will be 2 new wires coming out of your ignition cover. wire in a voltage regulator in parallel to keep voltage at 12V. my Electrosport stator came with a very simple schematic. I assume the Moose one will also. It is VERY BASIC wiring setup - very easy, like grade school level. Whatever setup you get I can email you the picture/schematic

ok that sounds much better now:thumbsup: , also are you running a battery?

if you plan on adding a battery to the system, here's a couple things to consider.

The stator output is AC, a battery is DC. You will have to add a rectifier to change the output to DC, and this will use up avaiable watts. I have been told you could lose 10-15 watts by using a rectifier. (I'm not THAT much of an electronics wizz, so I'm not sure on that point - just what I was told)

Halogen lights and a Baja designs led taillight will run fine on AC current.

A battery will offset some ofthe watage loss, but it's a losing proposition - the battery will continue to drain and run out - there's not enough watts to charge it as you ride.

I'm keeping my system AC to have as much watts as possible. My horn is a self contained unit with a 9v battery, and I'll run turn signals (led) from a small AA batter pack in my airbox

Pics and details of everything when you are done please. I don't mind being a copy cat.

if you plan on adding a battery to the system, here's a couple things to consider.

The stator output is AC, a battery is DC. You will have to add a rectifier to change the output to DC, and this will use up avaiable watts. I have been told you could lose 10-15 watts by using a rectifier. (I'm not THAT much of an electronics wizz, so I'm not sure on that point - just what I was told)

Depending on the rectifier, that could be true.

Alternating current is called that because the current reverses polarity as the magnets pass over the coils. The voltage is then shown as a wave with a peak positive voltage, falling to zero, then dipping to the same voltage negative, then back to positive again. Hook this up to a battery and for every amp you put in, you take it right back out again when the poles reverse. So, you need a rectifier to make all the voltage go the same way.

The simple way is the half wave rectifier, which need be nothing more than a single diode. This will simply cut off the voltage with the wrong polarity and let the rest through, but in so doing, you discard half of the current the magneto produces, and you loose a small amount more in ordinary losses.

Full wave rectifiers are a little more complicated, but not at all impractical. It passes the right way voltage, then "flips over" the wrong way voltage, and far less is lost.

Read (first half of the page is all that's necessary):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rectifier

Astually, it was they guys at Trail Tech who told me the info on the loss involved with using a rectifier.

Good article, Gray. I guess the wattage/voltage loss Trail Tech talks about is represented in that acticle under the heading "peak loss" where they say the loss at lower voltages could be "significant"

It would be nice to know exactly how much loss we'd be talking about with this type of setup

BTW, the rectifier sold by Trail Tech is a full wave type

Astually, it was they guys at Trail Tech who told me the info on the loss involved with using a rectifier.

Good article, Gray. I guess the wattage/voltage loss Trail Tech talks about is represented in that acticle under the heading "peak loss" where they say the loss at lower voltages could be "significant"

It would be nice to know exactly how much loss we'd be talking about with this type of setup

BTW, the rectifier sold by Trail Tech is a full wave type

swatdoc :: did you also purchase the rectifier from moose?

no - remember, I'm keeping my system AC - a rectifier is to convert AC to DC. I am running a regulator, which keeps the voltage at 12 volts and prevents spikes which could damage your bulbs

Guys - I've drawn up a basic wiring diagram/schematic for my setup. I'm gonna try to scan it now so I can post it for you.

OK - here's the basic wiring diagram / schematic I'll be using for my bike. Hope this will help.

YZ450FWiringDiagram.jpg

Note: The yellow and black wires that are shown coming from the stator are the lighting output wires from an aftermarket or re-wired stator - they are NOT a part of the stock wiring loom coming from the stock stator. In other words, you have to have a rewound or aftermarket stator for this, you CANNOT tap into the wires from the stock setup and expect it to work.

OK - here's the basic wiring diagram / schematic I'll be using for my bike. Hope this will help.

YZ450FWiringDiagram.jpg

Note: The yellow and black wires that are shown coming from the stator are the lighting output wires from an aftermarket or re-wired stator - they are NOT a part of the stock wiring loom coming from the stock stator. In other words, you have to have a rewound or aftermarket stator for this, you CANNOT tap into the wires from the stock setup and expect it to work.

you werent kidding when you said it was like preschool electric. did you install the new moose stator on your bike yet?

also im thinking of using the 2008 wr 450 taillight what u thinkg about that?

not yet - as I said in my post on 10-23, the stator is on order and I probably won't have it for another week or two

the WR tail light looks nice, unfortunately it's not DOT, so you'll never pass an inspection, if that matters

not yet - as I said in my post on 10-23, the stator is on order and I probably won't have it for another week or two

the WR tail light looks nice, unfortunately it's not DOT, so you'll never pass an inspection, if that matters

hey did you ever get the moose stator yet?

just checked today - was told backordered thru the end of the month :worthy:

just checked today - was told backordered thru the end of the month :worthy:

o damn, i was gunna wait till you give us a report back to order it but i guess i should just order it now so i will have it befor winter is over.

i just ordered mine last monday, hope it will be here soon.. i orderd the stator and the wire harness of moose

latest from Moose is that the stator will be available 1-23-08, but there's been so many delays I'm ot holding my breath

Sure sounds like you guys are getting the run-around with that stator. I was interested with the performance of the moose but by the sounds of things, they aren't terrible dedicated to getting a product into the public. Keep us posted.

swatdoc:: any update with the stator?

Last week I was told the new date was today - I'll call again tomorrow and see what the latest word is. I really wish Moose had a phone number listed where I could actually call them myself.

I purchased a lighting stator from Moose through TT about a month ago and it took about a week to arrive in Australia. My bike is an 04 YZ450F but just wanted to let you guys know that they do work pretty well. I am running an 07 WR headlight and an LED tail/brake light and it does the job. On idle it shines alright but once you are riding along it sends out a pretty good beam... Enough to get you out of the $hit if it was dark. I just bought the lighting stator wiring loom and regulator.

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