My pig flies, but bottoms out...

I'll do you one better! I'll scan a great magazine article for you!

Great! Looking forward to it!

most shops only re-shim and don't actually re-valve. Re-vavling actually changes out the stock vavle and replaces it with an aftermarket one. Aftermarket vavles flow much better than stock and therefore work much better. Re-valving replaces the valves and changes up the shim stack where as re-shiming (which most shops call revalving) only changes up the shim stacks and reuses the stock valve. Re-valving is by far superior. Moto1Racing in Ventura, Ca can re-valve for a fair price. call them at 805-654-9920. They will hook you up with excellent service!

Great! Looking forward to it!

you might have to wait till monday when I'm back at work..... computer way too slow. :confused:

Basically it says that if your spring is too soft, you have to use more pre-load to get the right ride height. This results in initial harshness as you can compress it too easily.

If your springs are too stiff, you'll have to back the pre-load right off to get the correct ride height. Because there is little stored energy, it will compress easily initially when your wheel hits the ground, then gains momentum and blow through the stroke. Thus feeling too soft.

The article goes into a bit more depth, but you will have to wait! :confused:

most shops only re-shim and don't actually re-valve. Re-vavling actually changes out the stock vavle and replaces it with an aftermarket one. Aftermarket vavles flow much better than stock and therefore work much better. Re-valving replaces the valves and changes up the shim stack where as re-shiming (which most shops call revalving) only changes up the shim stacks and reuses the stock valve. Re-valving is by far superior. Moto1Racing in Ventura, Ca can re-valve for a fair price. call them at 805-654-9920. They will hook you up with excellent service!

Actually, you can mod the stock ones quite easily.... take to them with a drill.

It is how the shim stack reacts that is most important, not necessarily oil flow through the piston. Modern dirtbikes have fairly great suspension components, and the pistons are usually sufficient. :confused:

Saying that changing the valve (piston) is far superior is quite misleading. If it isn't backed up by a sufficient shim stack arrangement, it will be useless.

So, I checked the weight of the oil I have up in the front and it's 5. I was thinking I'll just try some 10 weight the next time I have a chance to tear it all apart. What do you think?

I'd like to exhaust all possibilities before sending them away for a revalve. From past experiences I don't trust the local shop.

Saying that changing the valve (piston) is far superior is quite misleading. If it isn't backed up by a sufficient shim stack arrangement, it will be useless.

That's why I said you re-shim as well when you change the valve. I never said that you use the stock shim stack!

So, I checked the weight of the oil I have up in the front and it's 5. I was thinking I'll just try some 10 weight the next time I have a chance to tear it all apart. What do you think?

I wouldn't go all the way to a 10wt, it will make it way too firm. It is a drastic change from 5wt.

I'd try a 1/2 mix of 10wt and 5wt (7.5wt) first, and play with the ratio's and oil heights from there.

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