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steade

01 650R Hotcam Stage 2 w/ FMF exhaust REVIEW

14 posts in this topic

Hardware: 2001 650R partially uncorked. Havn't done insulator or air filter yet.

Install: Just installed the Hotcams Stage 2 with DynoJet kit and FMF Power bomb header and PowerCore4 pipe.

Pipe and carb work was simple but the cam left a bit to the imagination. Really crappy directions for the DIY 'er... really crappy. Not even vague, didnt even mention the word XR or 650 other than the paper that identified the cam.

Anyhow, I left the spring and plunger in as it never mentioned taking it out and it seemed secure. I ended up seperating the OEM cam thinking that some of the parts needed to be installed on the new Hotcams.... not the case as there are no dowel pins on the Hot Cam. So I put it back together.

Test Ride: The bike goes like a mofo! Was hard starting but once it was warm I ripped on it down the street. Exhaust sounds tight and punchy...no more popping. The bike reved alot quicker and pulled hard in all gears. Wheelies alot easier. Exactly what daddy needed! FULL test ride tomorrow.

Thanks to all the cats that have posted so much usefull info, it helps get the job done faster and I can do more work myself and spend the dou$h on parts instead of shop labor. Cheers.

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Hardware: Havn't done insulator ... yet.

Please tell me you're not talking about the part that sits between the jug and the carb? If so, you've gotta get after that- it's ~40% the size it should be. You think it's fast now, wait until you take the restriction out of there.

Note that you need not buy a new part- you can just dremel the restrictor out of the old one....

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You did a Stage 2 kit without uncorking the bike? That seems very odd to me, but to each his own! Enjoy the ride.

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Anyhow, I left the spring and plunger in as it never mentioned taking it out and it seemed secure.

On Hotcams website in the FAQ section it says this needs to be removed.

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CUT THE CENTER OF THAT BOOT OUT!!!!!! Don't run the XR650R with that restricted insulator boot.

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CUT THE CENTER OF THAT BOOT OUT!!!!!! Don't run the XR650R with that restricted insulator boot.

Sorry if this is redundant but I just got my BRP ....2002 R....and am still trying to figure out all this un-corked stuff. Yes I did a search but havent found how do to that. Do i just take the carb and boot of and Dremel the inside out?

TIA!!!

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Sorry if this is redundant but I just got my BRP ....2002 R....and am still trying to figure out all this un-corked stuff. Yes I did a search but havent found how do to that. Do i just take the carb and boot of and Dremel the inside out?

TIA!!!

Inside of boot looks like this... see, it's rectangle... make it a full round... cut it.. or buy the replacement part from Honda.

http://www.qsl.net/n5nj/pig/originalinsulator.jpg

Full writeup here:

http://www.qsl.net/n5nj/pig/uncorking%20the%20brp.htm

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Sorry if this is redundant but I just got my BRP ....2002 R....and am still trying to figure out all this un-corked stuff. Yes I did a search but havent found how do to that. Do i just take the carb and boot of and Dremel the inside out?

TIA!!!

the stock carb insulator or "boot" has a oval hole opening, and you can cut the opening to full round, or to the inside perimeter of the of the stock insulator, or for about $10 bucks or so you can get this part from the Honda dealer.

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Ok, so I put a stage 2 cam a a new piston and a Powerbomb pipe and powercore 4 muffler on my bike too.

While the bike runs like a raped ape now, it is really hard to start when cold. Also it drips gas out of the overflow while I'm kicking and kicking and kicking.

I don't really want to throw down for the Edelbrock pumper carb right now.(that is the ultimate plan)

Anyone know what is the problem? I can't believe this is the way it is supposed to be.

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Inside of boot looks like this... see, it's rectangle... make it a full round... cut it.. or buy the replacement part from Honda.

http://www.qsl.net/n5nj/pig/originalinsulator.jpg

Full writeup here:

http://www.qsl.net/n5nj/pig/uncorking%20the%20brp.htm

I did find a pic of that part near the carb. Looks like my dremels gonna get a workout....

I clicked on both links....neither worked....:thumbsup:

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jk9270, sounds like you have a sticking needle/float, pull the carb clean out the needle/seat, jetting should be 172-175 main, 68s pilot, b53e needle in the 3rd position, should start 1st or 2nd kick.

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jk9270, sounds like you have a sticking needle/float, pull the carb clean out the needle/seat, jetting should be 172-175 main, 68s pilot, b53e needle in the 3rd position, should start 1st or 2nd kick.

That's kind of what I was thinking, but once it does start it runs great. Maybe it only starts after the float gets unstuck? I'm not the most technical guy around so I dropped it off at the shop this afternoon. I'll post when they figure it out.

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Problem starting was poor technique. It seems now 1 or 2 kicks with the choke on then 1 good kick with the choke on and it starts right up. My mechanic said this is pretty common and when the weather warms up it probably won't need any choke at all. I still need to get a high flow air filter, then I think I'll leave it alone for a while.

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Are you running the stock piston? What is the recommended setup for this? I am thinking of doing the hot cam stage 2 but I think it is time to freshen up the top end along with it. Have you noticed an air leak (popping) with the FMF header at the junction points?

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