Are there any cheap Suspension mods?

basically, just spend the cash and get the right springs. shortcuts sometimes dont pay off.

basically, just spend the cash and get the right springs. shortcuts sometimes dont pay off.

Yea,your right.I have alot I want to do to my bike.I'm trying to figure out what to do next.I need more power,well maybe not need but I want more power.lol

Power then suspension or suspension then power?:crazy:

Yea,your right.I have alot I want to do to my bike.I'm trying to figure out what to do next.I need more power,well maybe not need but I want more power.lol

Power then suspension or suspension then power?:crazy:

i'm going the power route first. but they say to go fast, do suspension first.

i just want the snottiest squealer on the block!

Well, I hope I didn't scare anyone away from doing their suspension. The suspension "cheap mod's" should be at least tried first. SUspension is number one in my book.

Chop saw or angle grinder and you can cut the spring........the angle grinder will get it hot enough to lay down the last coil and make it look close to stock.

There is plenty to read to do it right and the time and money is almost nothing for the return. The only point I am triing to lay down is. Make sure you do it right the first time and not hurt the bike, you or your wallet because some yahoo gives bogus information.

dually noted and thanks!:crazy:

"Captain Midnight" where did you go? This was just getting fun:p

The thread was just getting interesting.......

I looked over the whole thread and it looks like Captain Midnight is the one that didn't read and didn't have any of the facts.........BWB63 did talk about there being no rebound control and didn't say anything about not using higher visocity but, you should allow for more flow in the compression to make it work. It is funny when someone gets caught shooting their mouth off without the corect facts they run.

Well, I hope I didn't scare anyone away from doing their suspension. The suspension "cheap mod's" should be at least tried first. SUspension is number one in my book.

Chop saw or angle grinder and you can cut the spring........the angle grinder will get it hot enough to lay down the last coil and make it look close to stock.

There is plenty to read to do it right and the time and money is almost nothing for the return. The only point I am triing to lay down is. Make sure you do it right the first time and not hurt the bike, you or your wallet because some yahoo gives bogus information.

Well you won't be scaring me. I agree that 6 inches is a little too much to cut. I think the max is closer to 5 when I measured my XR600.

I've done several suspension mods on the cheap. I'm about to start another round.

I have a XR600 and I weigh way too much for it. The current mods are the rear spring cranked to max preload and Dexron III (Ithink). I run the forks about 10mm over the max on the oil level. My measurements and research say that the Dexron is between 15 and 17 wieght. That is a lot thicker than the recommended fluid. It gave positive and negative results. I got some extra resistance to bottoming that I was looking for, but it came at the cost of a much harsher ride over small chop. Wash board roads are not as nice as before.

Maxing the preload helps some, but also comes with drawbacks.

I've been keeping an eye on ebay for a springs and last week one finally showed up. Got the proper rate rear spring for about 1/2 off. Now I need to address the spring rate on the front end. I plan on going the cutting route. I'll measure real carefully before chopping to be sure to avoid binding.

As the 650L springs are somewhat higher rate that the 600 fork springs, is there anyone out there in Thumpertalk land that has a set of stock 650L springs laying about unused? I'll buy them. Even cutting the max off a 600 spring will net get me the spring rate that I need. If I start with a 650L fork spring, I can.

Yes, DEXRON®-III/MERCON® is blended to SAE 5W-20 viscosity so, it will depend at what tempature it is ran at what the viscosity will be. Forks do not run very hot. Old Dexron is about 7.5wt at normal fork tempature. (From what Bruce said) As far as I can see the suspension fluids work backwards from Dexron and gets thicker as the fluid gets hotter. The suspension fluid gets thinner or tries to stay the same.

I found this about Dexron:

Viscosity: DEXRON®-III/MERCON® is blended to SAE 5W-20 viscosity to provide necessary oil flow at low temperatures and adequate viscosity for proper lubrication at high operating temperatures. It meets oil viscosity specifications from a low of -40ºF to a high of 212ºF. This wide viscosity range allows it to meet the oil performance requirements of automatic transmissions and power-shift transmissions where an SAE 5W-20 or 10W viscosity grade oil is specified.

Just for the sake of having a viscosity chart I put this here:

oilcom1.gif

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