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almostinvincible119

Removing Engine Case Paint

13 posts in this topic

I remember reading on here a while back that there was some chemical that took the paint off the clutch and ignition covers. I think grayracer said what it was. I can't remember the name, maybe it was just good old paint thinner. Ive searched this a few times and came up with nothing.

I was also wondering if I could just sandblast the side covers. Would this be ok for the magnesium?

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Paint stripper. Check the label to be sure there are no cautions about corrosiveness versus magnesium (shouldn't be), and use it with the parts off the bike.

Sand blasting is OK as long as all the normal precautions are followed, but it depends on what you want to do with the part once you get the paint off. If you're planning to polish them, use paint stripper, as the finish with sandblasting will take longer to sand smooth.

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I see you're in Florida as well. Any idea where I could take mine to get blasted? I am in the Tampa/Brandon area.

Thanks

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Ask about soda blasting.

You can blast the paint of a full beer can, it is that gentle.

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About removing the ignition cover... Do I have to re-seal the wire harness that comes out of the top of the cover? If so, what do I use to do so?

Thanks

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I can't remember if the wires were actually sealed in there? I don't think so anyway.

You could try some silicone.

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My YZ450 actually has some gray silicone sealant in addition to the rubber boot. I was just curious if this was just an added measure from the factory and if it was crucial or not. Also, if there was a specific type of sealant to use (high temp, etc...)

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You could try some silicone.

Good way to cause a leak RTV sealant works poorly on most flexible gaskets or grommets.

Just be sure it's clean, and you should have no problem. Try not to slide the sealing grommet on the cable housing, as that joint is sealed. If a sealer becomes necessary for some reason, a light film of a "GaskaCinch" type sealer, trim adhesive, or contact cement will work.

The gray YamaBond sealer is different than typical RTV silicon, and is a much better choice. Like most factory branded chemicals, though, it costs more than it should.

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