rk chain junk

If I adjust my bike to where it's correct and then put it on the stand, the chain looks horribly loose.
There are only two ways to set the chain tension that are correct. One is with the bike on the stand according to the manual. The other is to compress the rear suspension by some means (remove the spring, have a fat guy sit on it, whatever) so that the centers of the output shaft, swing arm pivot, and rear axle are aligned with one another. This is the tightest point in the swing, and at that point, you need 1/2" of true slack (up and down).

Any other method is wrong, because it isn't repeatable. The method outlined in the manual is how the chain will measure on the stand when it's been set by the second method (which is ultimately the single most accurate method), and is the recommended procedure because it's simple to do, and reliably repeatable.

I've used RK chains for 5-6yrs now with great success. Both on my roadrace bike and my MXer. Misalignment and/or a tire rubbing on the chain are a guarantee for early failure on any chain especially one with steel sprockets.

Thanks for the advice grey, i edited my post and included a better pic of the sprocket. There is some wear on the drive side of the sprocket but i'm not sure if its enough to prematurely wear a new chain...

When u say measure the slack in the chain from the rear slider screw, should it be from the top of the slider to the bottom, middle, or top of chain?

Also..the chain should touch the swingarm when pushed down BEHIND the slider correct?

The sprocket looks fine. Use it.

The manual is a bit vague, so I measure to the pins of the chain. I also generally keep toward the loose end of the spec.

Yes, you can actually push the chain down against the swing arm just behind the slider when it's set right. Check it out after you measure out your adjustment.

Alright, guess i'm gonna order up the onr6 and a narrower back tire as well. Put it back to the factory 110 width...

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