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Type Gendy

rk chain junk

24 posts in this topic

Hey guys,

Recently i put a new steel sunstar sprockets on my 426 and a non oring RK chain. This thing has been driving me nuts. It is stretching worse than the stocker. Every ride it has to be readjusted quite a bit, and sometimes twice if i'm out for a half day or more. I've never had soo much trouble with a chain b4. I'm following the correct procedure for adjusting it with the proper slack, are these chains just known junk? I did quite a bit of research before purchasing, as well as paid waaaaaay too much for it at a local dealer because i was in a pinch.

:thumbsup:

/rant

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You speak of chains stretching. I am unfamiliar with this phenomena.

Regina ORN6.

Yep...one adjustment after the initial ride and then it just stays the same.

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I scrapped the stock chain on my YZ250 and put on a Primary Drive o-ring from Rocky Mtn. I only ever adjusted it once in a year.

Best $41.80 I ever spent on that bike.

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You speak of chains stretching. I am unfamiliar with this phenomena.

Regina ORN6.

Glad I listened here, Chain adjusting days are over.:thumbsup:

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i cant seem to notice any wear on the new sprockets, but i'm sure its there cause i have a few good days of riding in on the new setup, actually maybe 10-15 hrs. should i save up and throw an o-ring chain on there now or wait till next time around?

also seems that the tire is rubbing on the chain, so maybe thats what is making it stretch so quickly. would the o ring chain be that much wider that it would rub / grab the tire that much more

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Yep...one adjustment after the initial ride and then it just stays the same.
Glad I listened here (about the Regina), Chain adjusting days are over.:thumbsup:
It's hard to even believe, actually. The one on my '03 is over two years old, runs free, and measures out at 0.7% longer than new. It's been there so long that the tops of the plates are worn down to the edges of the O-rings from dragging through the lower guide. :ride:

also seems that the tire is rubbing on the chain, so maybe thats what is making it stretch so quickly. would the o ring chain be that much wider that it would rub / grab the tire that much more

Good sealed chains are barely any wider than non-sealed chains. If you have a chain hitting the tire, either the tire is too wide, or the rear wheel is out of line.

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It's hard to even believe, actually. The one on my '03 is over two years old, runs free, and measures out at 0.7% longer than new. It's been there so long that the tops of the plates are worn down to the edges of the O-rings from dragging through the lower guide. :thumbsup:

Good sealed chains are barely any wider than non-sealed chains. If you have a chain hitting the tire, either the tire is too wide, or the rear wheel is out of line.

id have to agree here switch to the regina o ro x ring and forget about adjustment problems.....if your tire is even close to rubbing the chain you have the left side adjuster out way too far ...have you polished the inside of the swing arm yet

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You speak of chains stretching. I am unfamiliar with this phenomena.

Regina ORN6.

Me too, except I use the Primary Drive stuff. I can get 2 sprockets and an o-ring chain for approximately $57.99.

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id have to agree here switch to the regina o ro x ring and forget about adjustment problems.....if your tire is even close to rubbing the chain you have the left side adjuster out way too far ...have you polished the inside of the swing arm yet

what do you mean polish the inside of the swing arm? LIke is my wheel misaligned to the point where my sprocket is hitting it? no

I have a 120 dunlop on the rear which i realized is the incorrect size, i'm gonna order a new 110 to eliminate the problem. Didnt realize it until i looked in the manual as it came that way

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The '08 comes with a 120, and I've run them before. I think alignment, or a rim incorrectly centered over the hub is your culprit.

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if youre tire is rubbing on youre chain the tire might be out of alighnment and if youre tire is out of alighnment that might be why the chain is wearing fast. not shure tho?

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i have used rk xso520 on my zx 7 (520 conversion) and i will be the first one to say rk is junk! they have a 20,000 mi warranty and have never come close.

i have gone thru 2 sets of chain and sprockets(change both at same time) in a year and a half.

i do not have time to fill out paperwork and wait 6 months for a chain replacement for a bike i drive daily so it is a moot point. the rk chain you get as aftermarket is not the same as oem ,not nearly as strong. think renthal.

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WEll next time is definetly gonna be the regina 0rn6 for me.

Matter fact, even though i have "broken in" these sprockets, i'm wondering if its too late to switch over to another new chain? What do you guys think? Should i just suck it up with this chain and keep it or can i get away with a new chain ? Here is a shoddy pic of the rear sprocket

e7af5877.jpg

This is how the chain looks after a mild 2 hr trail ride... Does this look pretty loose to you guys? I thought maybe i was just keeping it too tight and it was stretching to where it needed to be. ( I'm 6'3 195lbs) AT this tension it makes a lot of noise though while riding clanking around

e7af86b1.jpg

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The pictures of the sprockets are too out of focus to tell (look into the "macro" mode on your camera), but it looks vaguely like they're still OK. The thing to look at is whether the front and back sides of the teeth are symmetrical. Pay particular attention to the points of the teeth.

One of the things that causes trouble of all kinds with '06 and later YZF's is that the specified chain tension for the new bikes is looser than the older models, and looks even looser than that. The lower roller on the aluminum frame doesn't run against the chain as early in the down swing as on the steel bikes, and the hump on top of the swing arm is a bit more prominent. This means the chain will need more slack (because of the roller), and will drag the top of the swing arm sooner. So, yes, your chain looks loose, so it looks OK to me. You should actually be able to push the chain down to touch the swing arm at the rear slider bolt.

Measure the chain tension by measuring up to the chain from the rear chain slider screw while pulling upward on the top run of chain. It should be at least 1.9", with 2.3" as the specified maximum. That's the only way to really know.

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When the bike is on a stand like that, the chain will look really loose. Look how far below the countershaft-swingarm nut line your axle is....the chain will be at its tightest point when the C/S-swingarm-axle are all in the same line. If I adjust my bike to where it's correct and then put it on the stand, the chain looks horribly loose.

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Yea i realize that, but usually i'll lean it up against a tree in gear and thats when it looks the worse when i'm out riding...

Thanks for the advice grey, i edited my post and included a better pic of the sprocket. There is some wear on the drive side of the sprocket but i'm not sure if its enough to prematurely wear a new chain...

When u say measure the slack in the chain from the rear slider screw, should it be from the top of the slider to the bottom, middle, or top of chain?

Also..the chain should touch the swingarm when pushed down BEHIND the slider correct?

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