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Rekluse engagement

7 posts in this topic

I have the z start for my '06 450. Mrmoto mentioned that you could get a heavier 2" wave spring to help decrease stalling. Is there a difference between tightening the external adjuster nut to increase the stall speed and installing the wave spring? Or is this just 2 different ways to achieve the same thing.

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I had the same problem with my bike Sunday while riding tight single track with my 06 YZ450. I also have z start on my bike. Did you use all three .055" drive plates like directions stated? I am thinking about going back in my bike tomorrow and swapping the third .055" drive plate for a stock .047". Also thought about buying a Boyesen Quickshot to see if that might fix the problem. Does you bike surge a little when you put it in gear?

I know my post will not solve your problem, but I am not sure what to do.

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I have been running a rekluse clutch for 3 years on a 01 426 and 06 450 and have also had some stalling issues. If you can put you bike in gear without creep and you can find neutral easily your problems are not with the clutch setup. Your problems are with the jetting on the bike. The clutch likes the jetting to be a bit on the lean side. It is a frustrating job to get jetting right. You start the day off without stalling problems but as the day gets hotter and the air filter gets a lot of dust on it I would start to get stalling issues in throttle on/off/on situations. I would adjust the fuel screw in and stalling would stop. The problem was always worse in the woods on the MX track I didn't have much of a problem with stalling. Hope this helps.

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just lean it right out. it makes more powa :p

hahah jk i had same problem instead of stock setting 1 1/4 turns out i only did 3/4 turns out and it seemed to help alot

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I called Rekluse and asked them the same question. They said in theory it should accomplish the same thing, either adjusting the external nut or putting in a taller wave spring. He also asked if my install gap may be too tight because the symptoms could also be related to that. (The occasional stall from small throttle on-0ff-on) I remember the last time I checked the gap that It was at the loose end of the tolerance and I adjusted it so that it was at the tight end ( I think I may have over shot a tiny bit) with the thought that it will loosen up over time. But He said that after the initial break in that the gap doesn't move much for a long time unless your constantly slipping the clutch. So he is sending me the taller wave spring which I will try as a last resort, but I'm going to check the gap again because I think that is the actual problem.

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I called Rekluse and asked them the same question. They said in theory it should accomplish the same thing, either adjusting the external nut or putting in a taller wave spring. He also asked if my install gap may be too tight because the symptoms could also be related to that. (The occasional stall from small throttle on-0ff-on) I remember the last time I checked the gap that It was at the loose end of the tolerance and I adjusted it so that it was at the tight end ( I think I may have over shot a tiny bit) with the thought that it will loosen up over time. But He said that after the initial break in that the gap doesn't move much for a long time unless your constantly slipping the clutch. So he is sending me the taller wave spring which I will try as a last resort, but I'm going to check the gap again because I think that is the actual problem.

How tight is your gap?

I've found that correct jetting with a Rekluse is very important. Too rich and it will hiccup and die. A little lean is where you want to be. A little popping on decel should be heard.

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I checked the gap yesterday and it was on the tight side so I removed one of the .055 rekluse plates and put a .047 stock plate back in. I had the carb mod done by zip-ty and it has never run better. I always make sure there is a little decel popping when I adjust the fuel screw. I'll be able to ride in the next couple of days to see if that fixed it.

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