Leo Vince full system issues...Help

I decided to try a full sytem from Leo Vince. I'm happy with the performance and the fit/finish. However, check out the photos below; I have two problems I need to address:

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As you can see above, my pants rub against the header right there and it's buring the pants. What suggestions do you have for a header guard? For those of you who have the exhaust, what have you done? Should I just wrap that section with header wrap? Is there a universal carbon fiber guard out there that fits?

The second problem with the exhaust system is more concerning as it's only a matter of time before I begin ripping the can apart with my rear wheel (I run 120 Dunlop Desert AT):

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Here's a pic of where the can attaches:

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The obvious answer is some kind of plug/spacer to sit between the carbon fiber hanger and the frame. For those of you who have the same exhaust, or a like designed can, what did you use?

If it were me, I would add a couple of spacers to that setup. Of course, a space on the upper mount for the can is the most obvious. I would go with at least a 3/8 inch spacer here. I would also add a spacer to the mount for the midpipe as well. With both of these spacers, this will pull the headpipe closer into the motor, possibly attunating your hot pants problem.

I noticed on the second to the last pic that your rear tire is rubbing your subframe inner fender quite a bit, maybe your subframe might be tweeked to the left alittle to far?

Is your Leo Vince exhaust the quite X3 Enduro system? If so how is the noise and performance level compared to the HRC tip?

Brian

I noticed on the second to the last pic that your rear tire is rubbing your subframe inner fender quite a bit, maybe your subframe might be tweeked to the left alittle to far?

Yea I see that too, I don't think it should rub that even if the sub frame is perfect. Maybe he has a tire too wide for the bike?

Is your Leo Vince exhaust the quite X3 Enduro system? If so how is the noise and performance level compared to the HRC tip?

Brian

The system is awesome! I love it. I've ran the Pro Circuit stystem on my last 650 and I ran the stock system with the HRC tip on my current bike.

It comes with several tips, but you can only use two of them with the spark arrestor. I have one tip that will test at around 96 db and delivers roughly the same performance as the HRC tip. If anything, the LeoVince system seems to give the bike a little more pop off idle. I found it a little more snappy, a little more grunty.

I have another tip, that I put on the bike but didn't ride that makes it mega quiet. Super quiet. I haven't ridden with the tip yet but will probably pick up another system for the dual sported 650R I don't own yest and run the quiet tip on it.

Really well made system. I raced it yesterday and like it. I just need to address the issues.

Yea I see that too, I don't think it should rub that even if the sub frame is perfect. Maybe he has a tire too wide for the bike?

I've been running the Dunlop Desert AT 120 for years. That tire was basically made for the 650R. It is wide, that much is true, but you can't race in the desert on the skinny little narrow tires. Just not the same.

I noticed on the second to the last pic that your rear tire is rubbing your subframe inner fender quite a bit, maybe your subframe might be tweeked to the left alittle to far?

The subframe is probably a little tweeked but show me a 650R that doesn't have a tweeked subframe. :ride:

If I replaced/tried to rebend my subframe everytime it looked off, I'd never be able to ride.

If it were me, I would add a couple of spacers to that setup. Of course, a space on the upper mount for the can is the most obvious. I would go with at least a 3/8 inch spacer here. I would also add a spacer to the mount for the midpipe as well. With both of these spacers, this will pull the headpipe closer into the motor, possibly attunating your hot pants problem.

I'll probably try to shim out the can at the subframe by a 1/4 to 3/8 and see if that helps.

I don't think I can shim out the header at the base of the subframe because there isn't a lot of clearance between the header and the shock spring.

I'm hoping someone has purchased a universal header guard from one of the carbon fiber companies and can make a reccomendation.

I have the exact same issues with a Big Gun header and exhaust sytem. They look just about the same. Same burning pant-leg mark and same tire rub.

I've found the 110 tires are cheaper and the bike turns better in the single-track, never noticed any difference in the open....but the 110 tire still hits the can slightly. :excuseme:

I'll probably try to shim out the can at the subframe by a 1/4 to 3/8 and see if that helps.

I don't think I can shim out the header at the base of the subframe because there isn't a lot of clearance between the header and the shock spring.

I'm hoping someone has purchased a universal header guard from one of the carbon fiber companies and can make a reccomendation.

I just thought of the spacer on the mid-pipe mount, as I had one there on my old WB R-4 system. But as you mentioned, if you don't have the clearance with the shock spring, you can't do that! I've now got the XR's Only full race system, and there is no way that I could shim that pipe as there is almost no room to be had near the shock with the way oversize headpipe and megaphone mid pipe. But thankfully, I don't hit the can with the tire either!

I have the exact same issues with a Big Gun header and exhaust sytem. They look just about the same. Same burning pant-leg mark and same tire rub.

I've found the 110 tires are cheaper and the bike turns better in the single-track, never noticed any difference in the open....but the 110 tire still hits the can slightly. :excuseme:

110 tires are cheaper, but in my experiences, I can't keep the knobs on them. I get way too much wheelspin with 110s. They do handle better on tight, slow, singletrack though. I love the 140 Michelins (and 130 Dunlops) for high speed desert. Much more stable at speed and in sandwashes. However, the 140s are a tight fit, and like to rub the fender. The 120 is a real good compromise between the two.

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll def. run a spacer at the can. I'm still waiting to hear from someone who has purchased a header guard from one of the carbon fiber companies... cricket, cricket, cricket...

110... I don't know. I just can't quit the 120. I'm stuck on it. Maybe I'll pick up a 110 and stick it on a extra wheel and ride it back to back with a 120 and see if I can actually tell the difference. If the difference is losing a tiny bit of high speed stability in exchange for not trashing my exhaust...maybe it's worth it.

110... I don't know.

Also depends what type of tyres you are running as well. Some manufacturer's 110's are wider than others.

I've been running Maxxis IT's for durability and cost. The 110 seems the same at high speed as the 120. 110 is noticably better at turning in the tight stuff.

But what if I have Dunlop stickers on my bike?!?!?

But what if I have Dunlop stickers on my bike?!?!?

Kind of like when you look at a picture of the Michelin stickered KTM 690 at the Baja 500 and realize it has a Bridgestone rear tire?

Wait a minute. I've got Michelin stickers and I just put a Kenda on the back.:eek:

Kind of like when you look at a picture of the Michelin stickered KTM 690 at the Baja 500 and realize it has a Bridgestone rear tire?

Everyone knows Michelin stickers are faster than Bridgestone stickers....

Everyone knows Michelin stickers are faster than Bridgestone stickers....

That's why I got 'em!

I just bought a Leo vince x3 system for my drz. Went riding on the weekend and found my tyre was rubbing on the muffler as well. The muffler rotated in the clamp and also kept sliding down the exhaust, ie the pipe was right inside the can. Kept having to pull the muffler backwards to tighten the spring. I reakon I'm going to need to get a slight bend put in the pipe near the sub frame so the muffler sits further away. Going to need to get some bead welds put on the pipe to stop the muffler sliding down the pipe also. Have spoken to some blokes at a car exhaust joint and they reakon it shouldn't be too hard to fix. Will let you know how I go.

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