XR650R Oversize Front Brake Rotors??

Thinking of upgrading my stock front rotor. The XR's only kit (rotor caliper extender ect) is $299. A little pricy. Is it worth it and or is there a more economical way to go?????

I think the Braking kit is cheaper and it's used by Team Honda offroad.

I've never used a larger rotar in the front, not by choice, just never got around to it...

come on you don't need brakes on the XR just throttle :-)

yeah i would check prices for Braking and EBC maybe get a few other quotes ya know im sure you will love whatever you get, might even look into a better brake line if you got the stocker on still.

I just purchased the Braking wave rotor, not the oversized one. Does anybody have this?

I used and EBC 280 mm for a while. Loved the feel and power, but... The rotor is constructed as a full floating style with 6 (i think) brass bushing deals that allows the motor to move in realtion to the center rotor mount. One knock on a rock, and I could not get it centered again. Then the front wheel would not rotate long while wheeling and makes it hard to balance/steer.

I have never heard of anyone complaining their brake system made them lose a race... I thought Team Honda when racing Baja uses the stock brake system?

if you ride on the street get a 320 motomaster is the way to go much better than ebc but availibility of either may make up your mind for you

come on you don't need brakes on the XR just throttle :-)

Thats cause you never get out of second gear :p

I use the EBC 320mm conversion on my XRR 'tard. Hella stopping power; really fun. A bit of a slitch to fit, however- the reloc bracket didn't seem exactly correct (at least for my setup) and I had to grind a bunch of material off the backside to keep it clear of the buttons.

so this thread is mainly about tarding? right becasue i don't know if the brakes would make that much difference in the dirt right?

I used and EBC 280 mm for a while. Loved the feel and power, but... The rotor is constructed as a full floating style with 6 (i think) brass bushing deals that allows the motor to move in realtion to the center rotor mount. One knock on a rock, and I could not get it centered again. Then the front wheel would not rotate long while wheeling and makes it hard to balance/steer.

I had the same EBC 280mm setup, and the same results. I could neve get the thing to rotate true again.

I have never heard of anyone complaining their brake system made them lose a race... I thought Team Honda when racing Baja uses the stock brake system?

Team Honda uses the Branking Wave rotors, but in a stock diameter so if they have to "bum a wheel off some dudes" they have a real good chance of it bolting right on. At least this is what they used to do.

so this thread is mainly about tarding? right becasue i don't know if the brakes would make that much difference in the dirt right?

The brakes make that much difference in the dirt. Especially on a 300lb full of gas bike.

I use the EBC 280mm (pretty sure it's 280mm). My only compliant is that when using the EBC pads it likes to squeak just as I'm coming to a stop. Just a minor annoyance I've not been able to get rid of. Performance wise--it made a noticeable difference. The stock front brake is not adequate for spirited street riding, IMO.

I have never heard of anyone complaining their brake system made them lose a race... I thought Team Honda when racing Baja uses the stock brake system?

It takes a lot to slow the 650R down when you're re-entering the atmosphere. With better braking you can go into turns hotter, spend less time slowing, and come out sooner.

I'd run wave rotors from Braking but it falls under the "luxury" category right now.

When I converted to SM rims I added a 320mm EBC rotor and adapter. The adapter bolted up with no problems and I have really enjoyed the added power. A short time later I swapped out the factory brake line with a stainless steel-braided Russel line.

I do not have any complaints except that I think there is still more "sponge" in the lever than there should be. I've bled the brake line at least 4 times, every way I can think of, and even took it to the dealer to see if they could get it any more solid. I got it back worse than when I gave it to them. Pisser.

Anyway, point is the 320 rotor adds beau-coup braking power to the R, particularly on the street, in "stressed" situations. I think the value of a 320 rotor in the dirt is marginal, if only because tire traction is going to be the limiting factor, not rotor size. That's probably one of the primary reasons why the factory races with the stock rotor (not to mention less risk of rock or root damage).

IMHO.

Ride safe.

I had the stainless Russel line on my R. Great at first (with the EBC rotor). Switched over to a YZF front wheel assembly, and the brakes slowly started to feel more and more spongy. It got to the point that I could pull the lever all the way to the bars. Not good. If I wanted Kawasaki brakes, I would go back to my old KX500s. I would "borrow" the power bleeder from the dealership to bleed the brakes. They would be great for the first ride after bleeding, but by the end of the ride, spongy was back. Found a nick or two in the caliper pistons, so I rebuilt the caliper with new pistons and seals. Same results. Next, I rebuilt the master cylinder. The seals on piston were not in the best shape. Not it. Now I replaced the master cylinder with a new one. Maybe the bore was wore out? Nope!

It is not that noticable, but the Russel SS brake lines have a slightly narrower fitting on the end of the hoses than the factory Nissin hose. On the master cylinder end, the banjo bolt was bottomed out in the M/C. With new crush washers, there was not enough of a gap to let fluid leak out. However, I think that the bolt bottoming out (I was using the stock banjo bolt) hindered the fluid transfer in the piston somehow. My dealer had a stock 650R hose in stock (lucky me). Switched hoses and my brakes are back to Honda spec: one finger stops. I am wondering if you had a slightly shorter banjo bolt the sponginess may be cured.

I've had that problem before, I just carefully ground the end of the banjo a bit, and then used a file to clean up the threads, then made sure all the filings were sprayed/blasted off. worked perfect after that, but it was on a Z1000 when I switched to GSXR front calipers.

Interesting idea, Eastreich and Navy Nuke. I think I'll pull the banjo bolt this weekend and see what's going on.

How will I know if its bottoming out?

thread the banjo in with the line off, and measure how far it sticks out when it bottoms by hand.

then measure the width of the fitting+crush washers. if its withing 2 thread widths, its too long.

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