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Bibleman

My experience with removing the strainer bolt

37 posts in this topic

Well I finally turned 1k miles on my "L" and I decided to do my second oil change and also clean the strainer in the frame. I know a bunch of guys have had alot of trouble with this so here's what I did and I had zero problem with it. 1. Prayer 2. 17mm box end wrench 3. Rubber mallet. Bingo, came out with NO problem. Furthermore, just as an FYI, there was about three tiny metal particles on it and a few tiny black mushy globules of something, but not much of anything to speak of. I'm happy about this since it looks like getting to the internal strainer is a project and I'm going to skip it for a while.

PS Engine was cold

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my strainer had the same junk on it. my proceedure was this 1: beer, 2: yell at dog for knocking over and drinking beer, 3: get another beer, 4: same wrench, 5: clean screen, 6: another beer, 7: does it matter????:busted:

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my strainer had the same junk on it. my proceedure was this 1: beer, 2: yell at dog for knocking over and drinking beer, 3: get another beer, 4: same wrench, 5: clean screen, 6: another beer, 7: does it matter????:busted:

L M A O !!!

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I pulled my strainer on the second oil change at 600 miles.( didn't check it at 100 mile OC). I had all kinds of metal shavings, I gather thats pretty normal for an engine after break in. Now if I see more on the next OC I might be a little worried.

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my strainer had the same junk on it. my proceedure was this 1: beer, 2: yell at dog for knocking over and drinking beer, 3: get another beer, 4: same wrench, 5: clean screen, 6: another beer, 7: does it matter????:busted:

Sounds like I need to go to Nevada for my next oil change......LMAO

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Sounds like I need to go to Nevada for my next oil change......LMAO

come on up!! fridge full 'O' beer in the garage!lol!

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havent pulled my down tube screen yet only did my initial oil change when i got the bike and havent changed yet. But when Martin and i do it next time were gonna try his method. I got the XRs mag drain plugs so im not too worried with 2 of em in there helping out.

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Didn't someone just recently post that they had an XR's only mag drain plug and when trying to remove it the first time they stripped the crap out of it because it was made of aluminum and the frame is steel. Something about dissimilar metals? Maybe I'm thinking of a different forum.

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Didn't someone just recently post that they had an XR's only mag drain plug and when trying to remove it the first time they stripped the crap out of it because it was made of aluminum and the frame is steel. Something about dissimilar metals? Maybe I'm thinking of a different forum.

maybe you are thinking of the downtube plug? :excuseme:

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Thats why i use anti seize and its coated with oil also. I have seen some posts about that but i dont have a problem. Ill bet that theres a few circumstances that will contribute to that 1 No anti seize on threads 2 threads in down tube alread messed up 3 over touquing the steel drain bolt before replacing to AL causing threads to get messed up 4 only changing oil every 5000 miles when they put 1000 miles a year on the bike so the plus is in for years. Im no chemist but i have used steel/aluminum mix before and havent had a problem yet. I think the outside curcumstances make a difference AND if it was always a problem companys like XRs prolly wouldnt even make em cause it would be a never ending problem.

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I'm gonna dredge up an old thread...better than starting a new one about the same subject. :busted:

I'm a mechanical idiot. :thumbsup: I know that there are two screens that need to be cleaned, but where are they? Why would I need a rubber mallet? Do I need to have an extra gasket on hand? Is there an illustrated "XR6 Oil Changes for Dummies" guide somewhere?

BTW, great tip about the anti-seize - I'll have to pick up a tube. Or jar. Or whatever the hell it comes in. :busted:

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The rubber mallet is used for breaking it loose. I'm tearing my brp apart so I had it done to the bear frame and had to stand on my frame and use all the force I could muster to break it loose. If it has never been out it can be very stuck. Good luck.

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tim 29

:banghead:

one screen is in the downtube of the oil tank/frame.

the other is accessed by taking off the clutch cover.

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one screen is in the downtube of the oil tank/frame.

the other is accessed by taking off the clutch cover.

Okay, thanks. I found them in the manual. I'm pretty sure I can handle the one in the down-tube. The other one scares me - what's the easiest way to do it right (and not Fitup)? Should I be prepared with an extra gasket?

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