Hydraulic brake switch problem

I installed a hydraulic brake switch on my rear brake about 2 years ago. I only have 250 miles on the bike since then (I know, I should ride more!!), and the brake switch started working intermittently, then finaly quit.

I disconnected the wires, and using an ohm meter, I noticed that the switch was still working when I pressed the pedal. So then I connected 12V right to the brake light, and the light worked just fine. I measured the current draw and it was around 1.7A (just right for a 20W bulb).

Even when I connected 12V to one side of the switch, then pressed the pedal, I measure 12V on the other side of the switch (without connecting it to any load). Once I connect the brake light, the switch does not close anymore.

Anyone ever have this problem? I don't know to much about these pressure switches, but is this a typical failure characteristic of it? I hate to keep having to replace these things only after a couple hundred miles of use. Maybe I bought a cheap one.

Thanks.

My switch failed after 300 miles and sprung a leak through the top. I lost my rear brake immediately. Wanted to pursue it with K&S who made my switch but threw it away when I saw what happened.

if you have power into the sw. and you tested the light/wires to it. all is good untill you connect the sw.? repl. the sw.

these switches do fail on occasion. just think about the environment they are in. harsh vibration, heat extremes, pressure, caustic brake fluid ect. and for less than 25 bucks, yup the fail. one that failed causing a loss of brakes is a reason to me to persue at least a free replacemnt if only 300 miles old.

but electical fails happen, I"ve had a couple fail over the last 4 years of using them.

Mine failed recently, switch quit working. $20

Probally heat related. If it is like my XR600 the exhaust is very close to the rear master and banjo bolt. I put my dual sport brake light switch on the front master for that reason and have never had any problems as of yet.

Why not use the old spring actuated plunger type.. they rarely went bad and you won't risk losing your brakes and you won't have to bleed them to replace it....:excuseme:

location, not an easy way to ad one to a 650R where it won't get knocked off by a boot or light crash.

Thanks for all the info. I was already planning on purchasing a new one, but it is good to hear that I don't have anything that unusual.

My exhaust is very close to that setup, so heat is an issue back there. I was thinking of putting it on my front brake. I would just need to run my brake line wire up front.

I just found it interesting that the switch would fail only when under a load.

Thanks again.

Thanks for all the info. I was already planning on purchasing a new one, but it is good to hear that I don't have anything that unusual.

My exhaust is very close to that setup, so heat is an issue back there. I was thinking of putting it on my front brake. I would just need to run my brake line wire up front.

I just found it interesting that the switch would fail only when under a load.

Thanks again.

this can happen with high resistance in the switch.

Mine did the exact same thing, tested with the ohm meter, seemed ok. Replaced it, new one works fine.

unfortunately resistance testing doesnt absolutely condemn an electrical part. it may ohm out fine but the question is, how does it react when energized? it might fail then.

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