Welding Kick Start Lever

I wouldn't mess with it. Those kickstarts look cast to me. It would be tought to maintain its strength. It can be done, but there are very few people that can do it properly. Be careful, there are many people who think they can.

Do we have any professional welders out there in TT land? Osheen maybe?

I would like to know if it's possible to shorten the stock kick start lever and weld it back together and maintain durability and strength? It's fairly beefy near the pivot end. If a guy cut out 1"-1.5" in a thick spot and welded it back together you would have a lever the same length as a Pro-Tec or BBR without the $120 cost.

While I was at it I'd have them add somemore material to the pad that hits the foot peg. Any suggestions on doing this? Where to cut, angles, welding rod type, ECT?

I'd love to have a new Pro-Tec lever but $120 is $120. I believe if it's done properly you can make the weld just as strong as new. Welders, what do you think?

i run a sideline as a weldor and have done specialty metal welding in the past.i can say that while it is possible to get a sound weld in the casting the strength will not be there. unless you know the exact alloy content and do the heat treating after the welding. est cost to complete $500. subtract $300 if you can get yamaha to tell you the alloy. i broke mine off and replaced it with the BBR unit. best thing i have put on my bike, well worth the money.

i broke my kickstart lever.i bought a new replacement but welded broken lever to have as spare.it wasnt easy laver was broke on bottom seem next tp rollpin,i used tig welder and was able to get descent penitration with bead.the only problem is aluminum is thin in that area and i could only weld the outside half crack a weld on inside of crack would interfere with pivot joint.i tested lever out it works it doesnt look to bad but probably wasnt worth time and effort i wasted repairing it.

You dug up an oldie! I went ahead and headed all the warnings I was given. I bought a Pro-Tec lever. It's a nice piece and works great. It's 1.5" shorter than stock and I don't have to lift my leg as high to start my 250F.

Call me crazy or desperate or worse, but I finally had enough of trying to bring my knee to my chest to start my bike! I heated the stock kicker at the first bend from the top and bent it 90 degrees leaving the foot-rest part pointing straight down. I cut that off and welded some "traction" beads on the new "footrest". Works perfect; no problems; just as strong as stock but a heck of a lot shorter. :)

Wow! That must be short. Do you have any pictures of it. I'd like to see your handi work.

chaindrive ,"bring your knee all the way up to chest" how tall are you 4'8"

Little over a foot tall lying on my back! (my own personal riding style :D)

It actually has more to do with lack of flexibility in my hip joints. The bike is easy to kick even with the short lever, I just don't bend enough in the right place. Old age and too many million miles cramped behind the wheel, I guess.

After a 500-600 mile nightly run, I usually go flat on my face when I exit the truck 'cause my hips won't straighten out. I am actually 6' tall with a 34" inseam, and the stupid idiots who design-but-never-drive trucks think all truckers are 5'0" tall and the same in girth with 26" legs!...I know...go figure... :)

I see guys way shorter than me having no problem at all...and they have hair on their heads, too! It just ain't fair :D Getting old isn't for wussies.

As for pictures of my simple looks-don't-count solution, I will be happy to send them email (still don't know how to post pics here, though I know I have to get them hosted somewhere else and then type in or copy that big line of chinese gibberish these machines speak..?) I will have to wait till I can borrow my mom's digital camera, though. Couple days at most.

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