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Justin89

Stripped Oil drain HOLE. Please help!!!

19 posts in this topic

:cry: Hey guys, on my last oil change on my 2006 yz450f, I was tightening the left side drain bolt (12mm) and the actual "hole" is stripped. The bolt is perfectly fine, but it is the threads inside. My dad said that we are going to try a heli coil but I have heard that these dont work that well on bolts that are frequently used. I change my oil every other ride so it's got to stay. Any advice will help! Please help!!! I'm freaking out!:eek::foul:

P.S. I used the search forum and most of them are for stripped "bolts" not the actual hole/threads inside. Easy on the lashings please...:worthy:

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helicoils arent bad. maybe go to autoparts store and find your size drain bolt and then find the next oversize....AND DONT TIGHTEN SO TIGHT. its not a head bolt.....go easy...snug and a little bit more...

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yikes... this is the type of thing i think about everytime i'm tightening a bolt!

i've heard of guys having a type of valve as opposed to a bolt so its way easier and quicker to change oil... this way you're not taking the bolt in and out everytime..

good luck! i feel for you!

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I did the same thing.:bonk: i used the heli coils. get a 21/64 drill bit and 8x1.25 heli coil kit. super simple to do.

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:cry: Hey guys, on my last oil change on my 2006 yz450f, I was tightening the left side drain bolt (12mm) and the actual "hole" is stripped. The bolt is perfectly fine, but it is the threads inside. My dad said that we are going to try a heli coil but I have heard that these dont work that well on bolts that are frequently used. I change my oil every other ride so it's got to stay. Any advice will help! Please help!!! I'm freaking out!:eek::foul:

P.S. I used the search forum and most of them are for stripped "bolts" not the actual hole/threads inside. Easy on the lashings please...:worthy:

Heli coils are great for repairing threaded holes. They are much stronger than the material they thread into, so if you do it right, the hole is fixed forever.

However, heli coils are designed for a blind hole (the hole has a bottom). When you insert the bolt, it'll try to screw the helicoil into the hole as far as it can. In a blind hole it'll bottom, and it can't move anymore.

If the hole you're putting the helicoil into is a true through hole, it'll probably move one day (happened to me on one of my bikes). If the hole has any bottom to it at all, but goes inside the case too to let the oil out, you can probably use one, and it will probably never fail. A better choice for a through hole is something called a timesert. It's a threaded cylinder that has a shoulder on it on the outside edge. The tap for them cuts the relief for the shoulder, and it screws in there tight, and won't move in or out. They are a permanent fix for this problem.

Good Luck!!!

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Properly installed and loctited in, a helicoil will last a long time, I bought a used 98 KX 250 that had the drain bolt stripped out when I got it, I heli coiled it and it lasted for the next 3 years until I sold the bike.

Mike

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I hope so... the only thing that I am worring about is the metal shavings after tapping the hole. This was something that the previous owner :censored: up for me.

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A better choice for a through hole is something called a timesert. It's a threaded cylinder that has a shoulder on it on the outside edge. The tap for them cuts the relief for the shoulder, and it screws in there tight, and won't move in or out. They are a permanent fix for this problem.

The link is usually at the bottom of the TT page. http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/iclk?sa=l&ai=BugTETJ2xRvWSL4zuiwOWvYnsCJaitQv-lcvyBsCNtwGgjQYQARgBILb_9gE4AFDWq8fy______8BYKXAo4CkAaoBCjQ2MzgzOTQwNTeyARN3d3cudGh1bXBlcnRhbGsuY29tugENNzI4eDkwX2FzX25ld8gBAtoBOGh0dHA6Ly93d3cudGh1bXBlcnRhbGsuY29tL2ZvcnVtL3Nob3d0aHJlYWQucGhwP3Q9NTM3Mzk1qAMByAMF6AORAugDjwLoA4oB9QMAAQAA&num=1&adurl=http://www.timesert.com/&client=ca-pub-4976361434352421&clkt=-1&nm=5

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I hope so... the only thing that I am worring about is the metal shavings after tapping the hole. This was something that the previous owner :censored: up for me.

To prevent the metal shavings from entering the engine, pack the reliefs (grooves) of the tap with grease. The grease will trap the shavings. I prefer the timesert in this application, but a helicoil will perform okay too.

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So I guess that the bolts are about hand tight/snug then a little more right? These threads had to have been messed up way before I got the bike. The only thing that I fear is the drain bolt comming out while at the track and it causing a big crash. It has happen to my cousin and it wasnt pretty. I hope that this works though...:excuseme::ride:

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Pops wants to try the heli coil first...he said that it will hold so I got a kit that has everything needed. Im gonna try and make sure to not get any metal shavings inside...I think that ill run a couple of quarts of oil through also once it is done just to make sure. Hope this works and next time I'll make sure not to go to tight.:bonk::naughty:

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So I guess that the bolts are about hand tight/snug then a little more right? These threads had to have been messed up way before I got the bike. The only thing that I fear is the drain bolt comming out while at the track and it causing a big crash. It has happen to my cousin and it wasnt pretty. I hope that this works though...:excuseme::ride:

Safety wire is your friend.

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Well we put the heli coil in tonight and it went smoothly...hopefully it will hold. I am going to run about a quart of oil through to make sure that the shavings come out if any went inside. (hopefully not). I'll let you guys know how it holds tommorrow. Thanks guys.

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On a side note the drain bolt crush washer should be changed periodicaly, say every three oil changes, to help prevent this from happening and to give accurate torque readings. I tighten mine as tight as I can with two fingers as you can't get a torque wrench in there unless you have a crows foot which is on my to get list. Hope that helps.

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On a side note the drain bolt crush washer should be changed periodicaly, say every three oil changes, to help prevent this from happening and to give accurate torque readings.

:applause: Excellent point! I know the manual probably states that though?

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On a side note the drain bolt crush washer should be changed periodicaly, say every three oil changes, to help prevent this from happening and to give accurate torque readings. I tighten mine as tight as I can with two fingers as you can't get a torque wrench in there unless you have a crows foot which is on my to get list. Hope that helps.
Torque readings will be accurate regardless of the washer's condition, or even its presence. However, old, crushed, or damaged washers will not seal correctly without excessive torque, so yes, they need to be changed periodically.

For those confused about how much to tighten, torque a similar fastener to 90% of the specified value, the take the wrench you will use for the drain plug and rotate the bolt a little farther to get the feel of it. Also, observe how far the bolt rotates after it snugs up.

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i did the same thing on my 04. helicoling is good, i have done it on my caliper when the threads went on it. i could not helicoling my drain bolt cause it was friday nite and i was racing the next, so i tipped bike upside down, got out the welder, and welded the up drain hole, and finished with epoxy resin. now i just drain my oil by disconnecting of the right side oil line at the engine. job done!

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