First ride with the Rekluse z-start pro

[Wiz636]

I've had the original Rekluse z-start clutch (without the perch adjuster) on my 426 and have loved it. I did find myself missing the ability to manually override though on hill climbs, coming hard out of corners, and being able to powershift.

For my '06 that I just bought a few weeks ago I went with the new z-start Pro and I have to say that I think perfection has been achieved. This clutch gives you the best of both worlds with full override capability at basically any engine speed above idle. You can work the clutch manually with completely normal feel or you can just let it do all the work. They include a few different throw out springs that affect how quickly/hard it locks up and also the clutch lever 'feel'. Install was a breeze.

I did a few third gear starts...pretty much wide open, dump the clutch and effin' hold on! Strong and smooth acceleration with one or two fingers to feather just a bit until the bike gains some speed and then you are gone! Keep the throttle pinned and tap the clutch lever for your shift into 4th and 5th gears.

In the tight technical trails it was typical Rekluse operation...no problem to lock up the rear wheel to slide a corner or crawl over gnarly stuff...the bike just keeps running and you get no arm pump from constant clutching.

This clutch combined with the Zip Ty carb mod has made this bike into total woods weapon. No stalling, no hesitating, smooth, tractable power to the ground and flame outs are almost non-existant.

I like ?

[jef]

Great to hear, WIZ. I just ordered my pro today. Can you give me some input pertaining to spring tentions, etc...

Thanks, JF:applause:

[642MX]

Good right up. I wish Rekluse would make a Z-Pro for my 426. I'd buy one in a heart beat.

[Wiz636]

Great to hear, WIZ. I just ordered my pro today. Can you give me some input pertaining to spring tentions, etc...

Thanks, JF:applause:

You will get a sheet that lists out in a matrix format what combinations of springs/balls to use to fine tune it to your riding style or to the way you want the clutch to engage...it is very simple and clear once you have it in front of you. There are also a couple of recommended setups indicated so you don't have to start out with a guess. I went with the recommended setup for the quickest hit and it works great.

[jef]

Thanks for the reply WIZ:prof:

[moochie]

I've had the rekluse pro / zipty combo on my 06 since spring and the issue I have is the lack of engine braking when coming into corners. Other than relying more heavily on the brakes or giving a slight bit of throttle to re-engage the clutch a bit does anyone have a tip on dealing with the freewheeling feeling coming into a corner? The amount of engine braking also seems inconsistent from one situation to another.

[Wiz636]

I just make sure that I downshift quickly and try not to lock up the rear wheel so that the clutch stays engaged. But there are always those times when you do lock it up and it disengages...I have my stall speed set so low that it only takes a tiny 'blip' of the throttle to re-engage it though.

[jef]

Rekluse Pro, , easy installation, set the clutch up with hard hitting spring and 27 bearings --------- WOW!, very nice.

If anyone is on the fence weather to pull the trigger, do NOT hesitate:thumbsup:

[youngwerth]

642MX, we have the z-Start Pro for your 426, just call.

To get consistent compression braking, you must have clutch drag at idle. With the bike fully warmed up, the bike in gear, with you off the bike, the bike should move forward some on it's own. Another way to check is with the clutch out, in gear, your idle should be about 200 RPMs less than with the clutch pulled in, in gear.

You won't wear your clutch plates or overheat your clutch with a little drag. You may find yourself holding in the lever (about 2 pounds of force at idle) when you're at a stop for a while.

If the drag just bugs you, learn to blip the throttle a bit as you come off the brakes or release the clutch lever at speed.