2006wr450f

What did you do to your WR today?

4,495 posts in this topic

Had my wr 426 dyno tuned runs perfect. :eek: Thick line= bhp Thin line= torque

IMG_0254.jpgIMG_0256.jpg

02 426

Timing (WR-YZ): yz

Main jet: 168

Main air jet: 200

Pilot Jet: ....

Pilot air jet: 100 PAS

Fuel screw (turns out): 1

Starter jet: .....

Needle model/Clip position: yzf needle, clip 3 from top

Airbox lid (on or off): OFF

Pipe: white bro

Temperature where you ride: 70-80 F (now)

Humidity: 50-60% (now)

throttle positioning sensor disconected.

Let me know of any thoughts anyone has...:banana:

Edited by djrevz

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I installed a vapor tech trail speedo. Hooked the rpm wires to the coil, as well as the power wires and everything works except the tachometer. Any suggestions as to how to make the tach work?

Im actually having problems with the rpm reedings, i have fitted the wire to the coil wire (wrapped) and to the live of the coil and reeds to high on the diagram but low on the digits, but the tacho fitted perfect i made a bracket that fitted to one of the front 8mm bolts that hold the fork guards on.

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I hooked both the power wire and the rpm wire to the coil wire, do you think that could be a problem? I wrapped them around the connector on the wire side. I was contemplating solder and heat shirink tubing which I have, if it worked how it is now, but, no worky. Any suggestions on where to hook the power wire too?

Right now I'm 6,000 miles away from my bike to confirm I believe I only hooked one wire up to the coil and the other to ground on the frame and the power wire goes to the battery. Try doing that.

Edited by flynz

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What kind of handlebar riser you running, home made?
Yes indeed! The handlebar mounts are from a KTM (for a 28.6mm bar) that are normally fixed with a M10 allen head screw (screw length can be chosen as needed). Just lathed a couple of aluminium risers, got longer screws and mounted it together. It's the identical setup to that used in the rallye kit offered by Yamaha for races like the Dakar:

dsc01817.jpg

photo38.jpg

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I have a 2005 WR 450, and I have been riding with a friend this summer, he has a WR 450, 2006 model, i.e. 1 year younger than my bike.

In short, it is a shock to find out how much better his bikes handles around courners. Somehow the stear (or the front) seems so high on my bike, and not as "connected to the earth" as on his bike. I have tried to play with the supspencion; by loosing it up, but still it is obvious that his bike handles much better.

I thought that Yamaha didn't change the bikes much between 2005, and 2006. Have you guys had the same experience?

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I have a 2005 WR 450, and I have been riding with a friend this summer, he has a WR 450, 2006 model, i.e. 1 year younger than my bike.

In short, it is a shock to find out how much better his bikes handles around courners. Somehow the stear (or the front) seems so high on my bike, and not as "connected to the earth" as on his bike. I have tried to play with the supspencion; by loosing it up, but still it is obvious that his bike handles much better.

I thought that Yamaha didn't change the bikes much between 2005, and 2006. Have you guys had the same experience?

You might want to see what front tire he is running I tossed the stock one and put on a 756 my bike it rides like its on rails now:ride:

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Somehow the stear (or the front) seems so high on my bike, and not as "connected to the earth" as on his bike.

Sounds like you've got too much race sag. The lower the rear end is, the less weight there is on the front.

Find out the correct rear spring for your weight and install it. Set the sag correctly and it should sort most of the issues you're having. A new front tire will take care of the rest.

Throwing on a better front tire when the suspension isn't sorted is like trying to cover a gash that needs stitches with a bandaid.:banana:

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Im actually having problems with the rpm reedings, i have fitted the wire to the coil wire (wrapped) and to the live of the coil and reeds to high on the diagram but low on the digits, but the tacho fitted perfect i made a bracket that fitted to one of the front 8mm bolts that hold the fork guards on.

Check this out at about 5:44 maybe it will help..:banana:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvVe1XGfp2Q?fs=1&hl=en_US

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I added a RevLoc Dyna Ring to my WR and went for a ride. I will never own another bike without one. Love it.

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New front sprocket on my 06. 8500km on the stock one. New chain on the way too.

Pretty simple thing to do once I picked up a 27mm socket for my 1/2" ratchet.

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I added a RevLoc Dyna Ring to my WR and went for a ride. I will never own another bike without one. Love it.

Interesting. I will look into this when I need to replace my clutch basket.

How does an auto clutch work? Id still like to use my clutch for wheelies and nose lifts over obstacles?

I'm assuming, I loose the clutch completely?

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Interesting. I will look into this when I need to replace my clutch basket.

How does an auto clutch work? Id still like to use my clutch for wheelies and nose lifts over obstacles?

I'm assuming, I loose the clutch completely?

No need to replace the basket and installs in 15 minutes. At that low of speeds you really don't need to use the clutch to go over obstacles. You can by the way still use your clutch to get your rpm up to do this. In a way You can adjust the level of clutch you want or should I say what rpm you want the clutch to engage at with the clutch cable you have now. If you adjust your clutch all the way out its almost normal.

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Im pretty sure id need a new basket some time or another. My basket has about 580hours on it... with a stock clutch.

So when the basket goes, ill look into these clutches. Ive never ridden with an Auto clutch big thumper, so I can imaging it must be AWESOME on the technical terrain.

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I put it up for sale :foul:

Why ohh why would you ever do that! :bonk:

I took the front end apart to regrease the steering stem bearings.

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