2006wr450f

What did you do to your WR today?

4,502 posts in this topic

So, how difficult was it to swap the shock spring? Piece of cake?

I was overthinking it. :thumbsup:

Watched the vid on factoryconnection.com on the kayaba ALN series spring replacement and I started laughing after I saw how easy it was.

In my life I've had a problem with overthinking. Its cost me a fair share of opportunities...No more

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I was overthinking it. :thumbsup:

Watched the vid on factoryconnection.com on the kayaba ALN series spring replacement and I started laughing after I saw how easy it was.

In my life I've had a problem with overthinking. Its cost me a fair share of opportunities...No more

I think you got the point by now, more doing and less thinking!

This saturday I switched my WR from Rotella over to Mobil 1 oil. The YZ had already been running Mobil 1 for a long time. After opening up the motor on the WR I became a little nervous about staying with Rotella oil, specially now that the engine is being pushed harder. I changed the oil on both bikes the same day, both had been used roughly the same amount of time on the oil they had. The difference in the oil coming out from the engines was nothing short of surprising, it further reinforced my willingness to switch over to M1. Maybe I would have been ok with Rotella, but I'm willing to foot the bill for a little piece of mind. Since I'm heading to the Dez for a 3 day ride, I'm thinking of draining the original coolant on the WR (almost 2 years old) and switch over to Engine Ice coolant, couldn't hurt anything by being a little more prepared I guess. Pretty soon I gotta grease the swing arm and change the brake fluid as well.

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I brought the WR over to ProAction Suspension to have the forks fixed. I don't know if I'm just going to get new fork seals and oil, or get the forks re-valved.

I need a new spring for the shock, but WorksConnection said I don't need new springs for the forks. If I dont' need fork springs, the WR is getting revalved forks and new shock spring.

Should be done tommorrow. :-)

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This saturday I switched my WR from Rotella over to Mobil 1 oil. After opening up the motor on the WR I became a little nervous about staying with Rotella oil, specially now that the engine is being pushed harder.

Erick

I read this and was interested in what you saw...can you explain a little more what you saw? Also how long do you go between oil changes?

Reason I ask is I had over 11k miles on my 06 before I sold it and all I used was Rotella Diesel Oil. Also my dad's 06 has 13k miles on it now with its first top end at 11k miles. Not one valve adjustment (stock valves :usa: ) and he used the same oil...

I have to admit that once the bikes had some time on the top end, the oil did come out "darker" but still no blow by or lose of power...however since the new top end on my dads and even on my 08, the oil is much cleaner when it comes out after every 300 miles.

Sorry for the hijack I was just curious about your post :thumbsup:

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This saturday I switched my WR from Rotella over to Mobil 1 oil. The YZ had already been running Mobil 1 for a long time. After opening up the motor on the WR I became a little nervous about staying with Rotella oil, specially now that the engine is being pushed harder.

What did you find?

I changed the oil on both bikes the same day' date=' both had been used roughly the same amount of time on the oil they had. The difference in the oil coming out from the engines was nothing short of surprising, it further reinforced my willingness to switch over to M1. [/quote']

Did the M1 look cleaner/less watery? Which M1 are you running? You were running the triple protection rotella (CJ-4) right?

I've never felt comfortable with that oil ever since I compared the virgin oil analysis to the CI-4+ version...which I have 5 gallons of stockpiled :usa:

Since I'm heading to the Dez for a 3 day ride' date=' I'm thinking of draining the original coolant on the WR (almost 2 years old) and switch over to Engine Ice coolant, couldn't hurt anything by being a little more prepared I guess. Pretty soon I gotta grease the swing arm and change the brake fluid as well.[/quote']

Yes do the coolant! It should be a once a year thing. I'm getting ready to do the coolant on my bike again.

Can't go wrong with engine ice but if you want to save some dough mix your own with distilled water, water wetter, and some ethylene glycol (orig prestone). Runs cooler than stock and is significantly cheaper than engine ice.:thumbsup:

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Erick

I read this and was interested in what you saw...can you explain a little more what you saw? Also how long do you go between oil changes?

Reason I ask is I had over 11k miles on my 06 before I sold it and all I used was Rotella Diesel Oil. Also my dad's 06 has 13k miles on it now with its first top end at 11k miles. Not one valve adjustment (stock valves :usa: ) and he used the same oil...

I have to admit that once the bikes had some time on the top end, the oil did come out "darker" but still no blow by or lose of power...however since the new top end on my dads and even on my 08, the oil is much cleaner when it comes out after every 300 miles.

Sorry for the hijack I was just curious about your post :thumbsup:

I didn't see anything scary at all, but what caught my attention was the parts themselves and the way they interact with each other, friction and such things. It's that now I've seen it in more detail, I can't see myself running an oil that won't give it all the protection it needs for a decent amount of time. I'm sure the oil is fine for a few hours, but I usually do long rides that take the better part of one day, so on average I can be on the bike riding it for lets say 5-6 hours in one day. And while I'm no pro rider, I feel that I push the engine quite hard a lot of the time, plus I've been abusing the clutch more in the tight nasty areas. That would mean that I would have to change the oil with every ride, not something I want to do at all. Ever since I bought the bike brand new, I had been changing the oil after 3 rides or 150-200 miles roughly. The bike hasn't shown any decrease in power at all, the motor runs just like the day I bought it, and I want to keep it that way as long as I can. This bike is not run on the street, all the miles on it are from woods/trail/hillclimbing, never long rides at steady throttle. The word out there is that Rotella oil is not what it used to be, and I'm not willing to be the guinea pig that finds out, a quart of Mobil 1 will be way cheaper than an early rebuild.

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What did you find?

What I found was a beautifully engineered engine, that I don't want to put at risk with subpar lubrication.

Did the M1 look cleaner/less watery? Which M1 are you running? You were running the triple protection rotella (CJ-4) right?

I've never felt comfortable with that oil ever since I compared the virgin oil analysis to the CI-4+ version...which I have 5 gallons of stockpiled :usa:

Yeah, I was running the "new" triple protection rotella formula. Both the M1 and rotella had been run for roughly the same mileage (150-200 miles) and under similar conditions/terrain, so it's safe to say they got pretty much the same usage. The difference was significant, let me elaborate: the rotella oil was BLACK, watery, had "streaks" of grayish color, smelled burnt, and didn't feel like it could lubricate very well. The Mobil 1 oil looked quite good actually, a bit darker than fresh M1, which is to be expected, but overall it looked like it could have been left there a little longer and it would have lubed the engine just fine, not watery at all. Both oils look quite similar when fresh, but after roughly the same usage, they look like night and day different. I guess in the end it could actually be cheaper to use Mobil 1, since I can leave it in the engine safely for 150-200 miles vs. 50 miles with the rotella oil. I know my "analysis" was quite short of a "lab" quality analysis, but the evidence was clear to me. However, I'd have no problem running rotella on a TTR, it should be adequate for that.

Can't go wrong with engine ice but if you want to save some dough mix your own with distilled water, water wetter, and some ethylene glycol (orig prestone). Runs cooler than stock and is significantly cheaper than engine ice.:thumbsup:

I think I'll go with engine ice, I'd do the homemade mix, but I just don't feel like going through that hassle right now.

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why do you guys change your oil so often? My manual says to change it every 1000 Km or 600 m. I've done that since i bought it last summer and the at 600 m the oil is still brown. It's not like it was new, but not black that's for sure. I ride some on the road, but mostly trails and hills.

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why do you guys change your oil so often? My manual says to change it every 1000 Km or 600 m. I've done that since i bought it last summer and the at 600 m the oil is still brown. It's not like it was new, but not black that's for sure. I ride some on the road, but mostly trails and hills.

There's a lot of variables involved. Which oil brand do you run on your bike? Is the area where you ride highly dusty? Do you usually run your engine hard on the trails? Out of those 600 miles, how many are on the road? 200? One year probably wouldn't be enough to see any ill effects, specially if the oil is changed regularly at 600 miles. These engines are tough and durable, but I don't want to test its limits, not trying to see how far I can take it before it breaks.

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why do you guys change your oil so often? My manual says to change it every 1000 Km or 600 m. I've done that since i bought it last summer and the at 600 m the oil is still brown. It's not like it was new, but not black that's for sure. I ride some on the road, but mostly trails and hills.

I change my oil frequently because oil is cheap insurance plus there is only 1.2 litres capacity, i don't know the milage but every 5-6 hours riding or after every race i change it

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Where i ride there's little dust. Hardly any deep sand, but i run it hard on the trails. I practice and time myself to see how fast i can do my loop. But there's a big difference between every 300 miles and every 600 miles. My manual says 600 and i usually do it at about 500.

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CH250, The transmission gears in a bike chop the oil molecules up while you are riding. This breaks down the oil rendering it less effective at doing its job. This has nothing to do with color. Be glad it comes out clean, it means you have a good motor. Change it on time or sooner so it stays good. I have tried alot of different oil in my thumpers. I am sold on Mobil1 4T 100% syn. I get it from advanced auto.

Where i ride there's little dust. Hardly any deep sand, but i run it hard on the trails. I practice and time myself to see how fast i can do my loop. But there's a big difference between every 300 miles and every 600 miles. My manual says 600 and i usually do it at about 500.

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So the louder these things get the more powah they make.

Took the spark arrester insert out of the WB E2 I have and put the competition insert in (like WB Carbon Pro) as soon as I got home. Its insane :thumbsup:

Its stupid loud loud though. Gotta be over 105 db.

I'm sure I can get the same gains with a cam and retain my sound compliance.

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Well at least it's finished for awhile. This trailer used to weigh a ton when it was decked with 2X6's. Now, it is a treat to move, balanced nicely while empty, it can be lifted with 2-3 fingers.

Full loaded

loaded.JPG

Right side tailgate hinge is removable allowing tailgate to be removed in order to haul longer loads if needed.

hinge.JPG

Tailgate/ramp

rearview.JPG

Ramp is decked with raised expanded metal for nice grip during load/unload

gate.JPG

Forged eye bolts for secure tie down.

forged.JPG

Only a few refinements left:

1. Deck the tongue with expanded

2. Install the jack.

3. add another forged eye bolt.

4. get it dirty.

We are going to road test it next week at the Stumpjumper Desert 100. See you there!

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So the louder these things get the more powah they make.

Took the spark arrester insert out of the WB E2 I have and put the competition insert in (like WB Carbon Pro) as soon as I got home. Its insane :lol:

Its stupid loud loud though. Gotta be over 105 db.

I'm sure I can get the same gains with a cam and retain my sound compliance.

Hahahaa, so you thought my wr was loud for no reason?:lol: Yeah, they can put out some power. Imagine your bike with that competition insert + 06 yz cams, that's how my wr is now.:usa:

Speaking of power, last night I switched my yz's rear sprocket from 49 to 51, that thing is pretty brutal. Remember how sweet 'n snappy it pulled at hollister? Well, it hits harder now.:thumbsup:

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Hahahaa, so you thought my wr was loud for no reason?:lol: Yeah, they can put out some power. Imagine your bike with that competition insert + 06 yz cams, that's how my wr is now.:lol:

I rode your WR with just the exhaust and with the E2/spark arrestor insert mine pretty much pulls like that.

With the competition insert it hits almost as hard off the bottom as your YZ.

The opening of the competition insert is nearly 2.5 inches wide. Running the pipe in this congifuration and cams would be too much I think :D

There are 2 things keeping me from running the pipe with the competition insert.

1. There is no way to rig up a spark arrestor.

2. It is deafening. The Dr.D on your YZ sounds like a quiet pipe compared to it. There is no way I could run this thing like that and not draw unwanted attention. Seriously its offensive...and thats coming from someone who likes loud 4 strokes.

Speaking of power' date=' last night I switched my yz's rear sprocket from 49 to 51, that thing is pretty brutal. Remember how sweet 'n snappy it pulled at hollister? Well, it hits harder now. [/quote']

Freakin sweet :thumbsup::usa:

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The opening of the competition insert is nearly 2.5 inches wide. Running the pipe in this congifuration and cams would be too much I think :thumbsup:

Nonsense! Blasphemy! No such thing as "too much".:usa:

There are 2 things keeping me from running the pipe with the competition insert.

1. There is no way to rig up a spark arrestor.

2. It is deafening. The Dr.D on your YZ sounds like a quiet pipe compared to it. There is no way I could run this thing like that and not draw unwanted attention. Seriously its offensive...and thats coming from someone who likes loud 4 strokes.

With some creativity there must be a way to rig that up with a sparky. I've rigged up two mx straight pipes with sparkys, it involved drilling, riveting, and cutting with a hacksaw, there's gotta be a way. Along with the sparky there could also be a "modest" insert that brings the db's down a notch, but not as restrictive as the "quiet" insert.

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I installed fresh front and rear suspension from Reactive suspensions. I cleaned and greased the swingarm and linkage bearings. Added a new air filter and scrubbed the air box. I taped off the engine and and various other items and spray painted the frame with an expoxy based yamaha blue paint. It came out really well for a quick freshening up. I also painted the radiators and foot pegs which made a big difference. I added a pair of tag metal fat bars with moose riser and new grips along with a new mirror. The mirror made a huge difference in my ability to see behind me. I also routered out the cross bar pad and inlaid my vapor speedo/tach/temp gauge ect. into it. I think it came out pretty sweet for my first try. It gives it a cool factor that was missing. I added an FMF titanium 4 mid pipe and silencer which made it super loud. When I say loud I mean super duper loud. Im going to have to do something about it. The bike is in need of some graphics which just arrived but it looks to me that they were made for a yz400 not a WR. Well thats a quick summery of the job. Im sure there was more but you get the picture.

wr1.jpg

wr2.jpg

wr3.jpg

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