2006wr450f

What did you do to your WR today?

4,495 posts in this topic

Just regular header wrap 2" wide. I bought the 15' roll, and I will have enough to do it again easily for $15.00. Wrapped mine about 2" past header/muffler clamp. Get it wet per instructions, and really pull it tight as you wrap after first band clamp. It will smoke like crazy for a little, darken up, and then will be fine. It deffinately made a huge difference in felt heat where wrapped and exhaust at muffler tip. Who knows if it really works, but all the car racers I know run it. What the heck there are a lot more expensive things we try that really make little to no disernable difference at all. This pic is after I let it idle for a while. It is not done smoking but about 90%.

100_0073.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put on a skid plate and changed the oil filter and oil. Well, I did the oil change and supervised the skid plate install.

My son took both the old plastic skid plate off and the aluminum one under the engine. He then bolted the new one on that replaced both the others. This is after he installed his GYTR skid plate on his TTR-50.

I told him part of owning bikes is working on them so he got his first lesson on 'righty tighty, lefty loosey". He even scraped his knuckles on his footpegs when the ratchet came off a bolt. I was so proud to see the little trickle of blood :-)

He didn't help me put new Bridgestone mx tires on his 50 today though. That was a PITA and I pinched the tube on the front tire so I had to run to Yamaha and get one. He should get more traction from these over the OEM tires.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

pulled the cams out , gonna go to the shop some time this week and swap my shims , they were all a little tight .

6 years on the factory shimming thats not to bad .

anyone else notice the left exhaust cup gets a little beat up by the decomp pin ? is that normal i never noticed it before but mine is a little dimpled were it hits , not on the path of the cam but anyway i was going to quiz the shop on it .

just wondering if its normal .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well it wasnt today, it was last week, but after blowing the motor 15 months ago, I finally scraped together the $$ and parts to put my baby back together. ( wasnt bikeless, I rode my trusty 2stroke during that time). Today Im using the ole WR to mark course for our race in a few weeks.

raceready.jpg

anyone else notice the left exhaust cup gets a little beat up by the decomp pin ? is that normal i never noticed it before but mine is a little dimpled were it hits , not on the path of the cam but anyway i was going to quiz the shop on it .

just wondering if its normal .

I dont know if it was because of the metal running through my motor of which caps were effected, ( the caps got mixed up in the box), but 2 of my caps were marked up, circles around the cap tops. Those aint cheap, up to $40 apiece, but found them for $27.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

He didn't help me put new Bridgestone mx tires on his 50 today though. That was a PITA and I pinched the tube on the front tire so I had to run to Yamaha and get one. He should get more traction from these over the OEM tires.

I've found the smaller the tire the worse it is to change.

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sorted the first oil change tonight,320k or 200 mile, what ever is your thing the post with bloke on the beach was hard to take as southern parts of the uk are under snow , which we dont really get so every thing has bloody stopped, hence time to do stuff in garage:ride:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took my perfectly new WR450F and began the modding process.

Nothing like ripping apart a brand new bike. Something just doesnt

seem right about tearing apart a bike with 1 mile on it.

DSC01115.jpg

DSC01116.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Took my perfectly new WR450F and began the modding process.

Nothing like ripping apart a brand new bike. Something just doesnt

seem right about tearing apart a bike with 1 mile on it.

DSC01115.jpg

DSC01116.jpg

At least you won't get your hands dirty!! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
At least you won't get your hands dirty!! :lol:

Nah, I always still find a way to do that.....:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I finally changed out the clutch I smoked last June and doctored through the rest of the summer. Now I just need to do an oil change and some maintenance and I'll be good to go.

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cams are still sitting out of it , to lazy to go to the shop to get new shims . maybe some time this week .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

why mod it right away, why not ride it a while and then add stuff so you know what the effects were? are you so fast that you ride to the full potential of the bike?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
why mod it right away, why not ride it a while and then add stuff so you know what the effects were? are you so fast that you ride to the full potential of the bike?

No sure who you posted this too but for me, when i sold my 06 it was completely set up for how i ride...when i bought my 08 it was two steps backwards as far as being setup. thus the reason to mod

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=711490

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
why mod it right away, why not ride it a while and then add stuff so you know what the effects were? are you so fast that you ride to the full potential of the bike?

I'm not talented enough to extract all the power the bike has to offer but I can tell you that uncorking and piping this thing not only increases the amount of power, but it increases the quality too...especially down low. That makes the riding experience more enjoyable :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Still putting er back together after self destruct. Put cyl head back on, installed cams, new cam chain, torqued cam caps, ran and connected wiring harness. tightened up a lot of bolts, should be running tomorrow. just have to replace flywheel cover gasket, add oil, get new battery terminal bolts, bolt on the seat and gas tank.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By RidingTheFort
      So I want to share a solution I discovered today for what seems to be a somewhat common issue. 
      First a little background, I ride a 2007 YZ144 set up for the woods and I had recently started to develop some slack in the rear end, so I had a buddy help me look and sure enough it was moving in the linkage. So I just received my new bearings and went to press out all the old bearings today. Using all-thread, some thick washers, and some nuts I was able to press out all the bearings in the linkage reasonably quickly (once I figured out to use a smaller socket so I wasn't hitting the shoulder). 
      But then I ran into a dead-end.. the connecting link, dog bone, wish bone etc. has a shoulder, or raised sleeve, between the two bearings preventing you from pushing them both out one side. Now from my understanding this isn't the case on every bike, some bikes don't have a shoulder and the bearings in the connecting link can both be pressed out one side but my service manual clearly showed a shoulder. After some searching nobody really had a great method for removing these bearings except for buying a blind bearing puller. So I bought a cheap blind bearing puller from Harbor Freight but this did not work for me, it was slightly too large. So back to the drawing board.. then I discovered this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YRA3nhzXX0
      Essentially, these races can be hammered out from the opposite side using a concrete expansion anchor that cost $2.69 at my local Ace Hardware Store. The one I found and used was slightly different from the one shown in the above video but there are many different styles that would probably work. Mine was luckily just the right length where I didn't need to use all thread or anything. Just slide it through to the race on the opposite side and expand it once inside (remove the needles before hand by the way). Once I had it in there and expanded, a few solid hammer blows (with wood underneath) and it came right out.  See below for pictures of how it works. 
      I've seen the question asked on these forums several times with no solution other than "buy a blind bearing puller" so hopefully this helps some people out. 
       
       






    • By jimDavis
      I live in Iquitos, Peru where motorcycles and moto taxis (tuk tuks) are the primary form of transportation.  We live a ways out of town 3 KM up a pretty rough dirt road.  After riding a Honda CRF250L dual sport several years to get to town and occasionally riding trails I bought our son a CRF230F.  After riding that on some trails I decided its time to get back into dirt biking. It was so much more fun than the CRF250L dual sport.  I wanted a bigger bike as the frame on the 230 is pretty small and it does not have much power.  I really wanted a WR250F, but, unfortunately, they are not sold in Peru.  I definitely did not want a motocross bike, we only have Yamaha and Honda dealers where I live, so the WR450F was pretty much the only reasonable option.  The weight concerned me as I am 57 years old and not in the best of condition, and I was also concerned it would have way more power than I could control.  I rode a Huqvarna 125 when I was 16-20 and it was a blast.  Very easy to flick around.  After lots of reading I decided I could learn throttle control and only use what I needed.
      So I got a new 2015 WR450F and could barely ride the thing!  The problem was the compression braking.  Any decrease of throttle felt like I was going to go over the handle bars!  Any small change of throttle seemed to have an extreme effect.  I did start adapting to it, but it was very difficult to control at low speeds on tight or rugged trails.  After some research,  I bought a G2 Throttle Cam System and that made a HUGE difference in controlling the engine response. Finally, I was able to actually enjoy riding it!  With the G2 Cam System I began riding a bit more aggressively and very quickly realized that while I was a fairly good trail rider when I was 18, the body does not remember things that well after 40 years.  My technique sucked and with the weight of the bike and my so so conditioning I got worn out very quickly.  I have to say I did find myself regretting my decision a bit, wishing I had something lighter.
      I started looking up articles about how to ride a dirt bike, how to turn, ride woops, where to put your feet, how to position your body, etc.  While wishing I had a lighter bike, I also knew there just were not any real options where I live except a Yamaha or Honda 250F motocross bike and I did not want the gear ratio, power band, or suspension of one of those as most of my riding is on trails.  What I decided to do was focus on my technique and learn to let the bike do most of the work.  Where before I would try to go fast (for me) on trails, I backed it off about 30% and just focused on form and technique.  Body position, throttle control, standing on the balls of my feet with my toes turned in so my legs naturally gripped the bike.  I focused on being smooth, on flowing down trails and over bumps, accelerating smoothly out of turns and learning to keep the rear wheel hooked up and not sliding out.  Initially it was kind of boring but I kind of made a game out of it. How can I get down this trail at reasonable velocity while using the minimum amount of energy and let the bike do most of the work?  What I found after a couple of weeks of this is I was riding much faster than before, had much more control and did not get anywhere near as tired.  I was also having a lot more fun!  This is an incredibly stable machine and will easily soak up any kind of terrain I point it at.  I am still trying to figure out how to consistently get over the bikes tendency to stand up in corners.
      All of this learning was on the stock, bottled up WR.  I was definitely disappointed with the power once I got used to riding it, but was content for a while.  I wanted to take out the throttle screw, but you cannot buy a Torx 25 security bit here, so I just rode it as is for a while.  I just got around to buying the competition kit and put in the ECU today without making any other changes – stock exhaust and stock air intake, restricted throttle.  My first ride with the default competition ECU settings.  WOW!! What a difference!  It is so much easier to pull the front end up and has more power and acceleration throughout the RPM range.  Honestly, I think I would like riding it with those default settings.  I did buy the power tuner and wanted to see what effect it really had.  I loaded the muddy/slippery surface map and took it out for a spin.  Seemed like a different motorcycle.  Much better traction, but with a very bottled up feeling that was worse than the original ECU, but it did have a hard hit in the mid-range.  I did not like riding with that map but can see how it would be useful in very slippery, tricky trails.
      I next loaded a motocross map that was intended for use with a YZ exhaust, the other extreme as I was looking to see what kind of difference the power tuner can make. Good God Almighty!!  This bike is F@#K3ng FAST.  I could not believe this was the same motorcycle.  Without any other changes, just the competition ECU, this WR450F has more power than I will every really need.  I will be taking it to the shop soon for a variety of maintenance and I will have them change the throttle screw.  I am looking forward to see if that will give me a bit more power while at lower RPMs.  It definitely has all I need in the mid to top end.
      I still think I would have been happier if I could have gotten a WR250F.  From all I have read they have plenty of power, and I am only 160lbs.  I do like my WR450F and have a lot of fun riding it, but there definitely  are times where the weight is a factor.  As long as my form is good it is not too much of an issue, but if I get off balance in a tricky slow section I really notice it.  It also limits my confidence learning to jump things as I find it very difficult to change its attitude in the air.  Do bear in mind I am 57 and not in the best of shape and finally accepting I will never ride a dirt bike like I did when I was 18.  I really do not want to get hurt again (hit a tree, broke a collar bone and damaged my rotator cuff and did not get to ride for 6 months) as healing takes a long time at this age, so I do not push it too hard.  One thing I do expect from this machine is a long life.  I will hardly every be using all the power of the engine, mostly staying in the mid rpm range, so I hope the engine will last a long time with just the standard regular maintenance.  My plan is to happily be riding this bike when I am 65!!  Maybe by then there will be better options in Peru and the wife will let me get one.  Dirt bikes are a great way to stay in shape and I see no reason can’t keep riding into my 70s.
      We will be getting our son a YZ250F soon as he does ride motocross tracks on his CRF230.  I will get to ride that and see if I made the right choice not going for a motocross bike.  I will probably keep the stock exhaust as I do like having a quiet bike and I have no need for more power.  It is also very expensive to ship things to Peru, so I really can’t justify the expense of the FMF Q4 (over $600 by the time I paid shipping and customs) , though I would like to have it just because it sounds so much better
       
       
       
       
       
       
    • By EDL96
      Just bought a new 2017 yz250fx, has about 2 hours on it and ive already done an oil change, and overall made sure everything is in good condition.
      I rode for about an hour last Saturday around a farm and than stopped to turn off the bike, about 20 minutes later I came back and started it up and now every time I rev it/ blip the throttle the bike just shuts off.
      Than about 6 days later tried again, Now it wont even run without choke, I warm the bike up on choke and as soon as I shut it off bike turns off
      Not only do I want to fix this so i can ride my NEW bike, I am very pissed because its brand new and ive done nothing wrong to it.
      Any help is much appreciated 
    • By nate9521
      So apparently some mx fcr carbs have removable valve seats and some dont. I didnt know this and just thought mine was really stuck in there so i drilled it out. Was going to replace it anyway. But it turns out that i have the model that is not suppose to have the valve seat removed. or so i think. Is anyone aware of this difference between the same carb. Do you know where i can get another valve seat? its off a 2003 yz450f
    • By Hammerthrottle
      Hey all, recently getting into motocross again and bought a used bike from a kid who lacked on the maintenance side of things for the bike. What I have found / believe is happening is oil is leaking out of the cylinder head breather tube. Before going on my first ride with the bike I had a respectable amount of oil right in the middle of the checkered oil marks on the dip sticks. However after about 5 hours riding I checked the oil to find that it was barely even on the dip stick. I know there has been oil leaking out of the breather but could have been caused because an overflow on the oil change from the kid. I mean the bike is 8 years old maybe it is time for some top end work. On that note would a person change out the piston regardless of condition along with the rings? Is it possible the rings are just not positioned right? I would definitely do the valves while I have the bike open anyways.
       
      Any info would be greatly appreciated I just find it odd that it took 5 hours to drain, reading through other posts some guys were having puddles of oil after 20 minuets of running time.