2006wr450f

What did you do to your WR today?

4,502 posts in this topic

Finally solved the hanging idle. I didnt want to take carb of so I tried my best with a flat screw driver bit... I didnt thought it worked but when I took her out for a ride it was spot on!

Also found out that the power to weight ratio is too high for the license i'm getting...

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Talked my buddy into a cosmetic update to his 06 WR450 .......

20141018_161323_zpsytfcdq0n.jpg

'07 headlight , '10 yz front fender and '05 YZ rear fender .

 

All it took was breaking his headlight with my rototiller , I mean my  IRC MB5 130 .

20140405_105920_zpscd4a8240.jpg

 

 

looks great ....just awfully similar to mine :facepalm: .

 

 

Picked up my forks and shock today from the suspension shop . I have a few small projects to complete on the bike

and then I can start dialing in the clickers . Hoping the gold valves make a big difference .

Edited by still2smokin
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Oh man, if you're coming from the stock open bath forks, I think you'll be very happy with those gold valves. I did the base valves only in mine and it made a huge difference. Ended up going SSS and that's been even better.

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Oh man, if you're coming from the stock open bath forks, I think you'll be very happy with those gold valves. I did the base valves only in mine and it made a huge difference. Ended up going SSS and that's been even better.

I am , when I first built the bike I was aware the suspension was just OK , so I all I did was spring it for a 250 lb rider and thought I could live with , NOT !

 

Got really tired of bottoming out the front on whoops at speed or a bad landing on a tiny jump  ,  as well as the skid plate slamming jnto the ground on small

3 to 4 ft decently landed jumps . Something about the bike suddenly slowing down right when you hit the ground tends to motivate you .

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Finished reassembly after tear down to just motor and frame .  Re-greased everything  , suspension servied w/ Gold valves installed , got my sag set at 95mm,

fixed a few stripped threads here and there :facepalm: ,   and a good cleaning .

I could have skipped the re-grease , its been a over a year since I did the suspension bearings and figured it could use it but the  Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease

held up really well . No rust or trapped water and there was still plenty of grease in there  .  

 

Suspension feels way stiffer just pushing up and down while setting the sag . Don't know if that's good or bad but hoping to find out tomorrow .    

 

It's ready to ride !

 

 

20141025_165247_zpstpkorao9.jpg

 

 

BTW ..... drinking and wrenching on the bike is not always a great idea .

 

Took me an hour the other night to figure out why my front brake line was shorter :foul:  :cheers:  :facepalm:  

 

20141022_210857_zpsc4ykbo44.jpg

Edited by still2smokin
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Ya but it always taste good and sometimes it makes for great stories.

Did you here the one about the incredible shrinking front brake line?

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^ looked like my bike today. I installed a yz shock linkage and transfered my custom valving from my wr shock to a yz shock.

Im hoping to ride it tomorrow, weather permitting.

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Built two wheels.  Now I have a set for dualsport/street and a set for dirt two track.

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^ looked like my bike today. I installed a yz shock linkage and transfered my custom valving from my wr shock to a yz shock.

Im hoping to ride it tomorrow, weather permitting.

Please report back with how that works for you.

What are you hoping to gain from it?

2014 WRR-Totalled

2012 WR450F-Stolen

2012 WR450F-Third bikes the charm.

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Racked up 150 miles since I picked it up yesterday.

Took the bike out for a long ride today. It kept stalling at idle so I just kept moving :)

Towards the end of the ride I started nailing 5th gear wheelies without clutch. Pretty impressive for it still having the snorkel, stock ECU, and stock cogs. I've only added a Q4 abs removed the throttle stop.

It gets a little hairy around 85-90mph though.

How accurate are the stock speedos btw?

2014 WRR-Totalled

2012 WR450F-Stolen

2012 WR450F-Third bikes the charm.

Edited by revelc

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Please report back with how that works for you.

What are you hoping to gain from it?

 

I'm hoping to gain a better ride/more compliance on trail trash, without reducing bottoming resistance.  I also like raising the rear of the bike up as it improves the geometry (quickens it) by steepening the head angle.  Desert guys might not like that side effect.

 

I didnt' get out for a ride today, so it will be next weekend at the earliest.

 

In the shop it looks great.

 

- The YZ shock has 10mm more travel before it hits the bumper.  With the WR linkage and shock, you only get 8 3/4" (roughly) of travel before the shock is on the bumper.  Sounds like a lot, but don't forget you've got 4" used up in sag, so really only 4 3/4" usable travel.  With the YZ shock and linkage, you get an extra 1.5" (roughly) of travel before hitting the bumper.

 

- The bike stands about 3/4" higher in the back.

 

- The YZ linkage has a higher ratio at the start and a similar ratio at the end.   Makes the start of travel softer, where you hit trail trash.  Also means the shock is operating at a slower shaft speed when you do.

 

I rode over some 2x4s and 4x4s behind the shop to test it out and it seems a lot better. 

 

Prior to this change I also revalved the shock piston (compression and rebound) as well as revalved and resprung the comp adjuster.  I also replaced the WR comp adjuster piston with the YZ piston.   The WR comp adjuster piston is too restrictive for woods use.

 

FWIW, I'm benchmarking against a YZ250F running an Ohlin TTX shock.   I think I've got my KYB shock as good as the Ohlin.  Ohlin is easier to adjust though.  Don't really have to take it apart unless the stack is really wrong.

 

I paid $90 for the shock and $70 for the linkage on eBay.  I didn't put any parts into the shock, though it probably needs a head seal.  It takes me about an hour to rebuild a shock once its removed from the bike. 

 

The YZ shock weighs the same as the WR shock.   The YZ linkage is 0.17 pounds lighter.   Everything bolts right on.  Gotta love the way Yamaha designs everything to be modular and interchangeable.

 

I have a thread in the suspension forum.  I'll update it once I know for sure how it works.

 

Congrats on your bike.   Why is it stalling ?

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy
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I bought a new o-ring chain for her. when i wanted to put it on I found out the chain adjuster bolts are both broken... I figured I would take the swingarm of to drill it out and tap it again. 

The idea was great until I met with the notorious  swingarm bolt! I tried almost everything, from beating it, heating it, using a press, try and pull it with a long bolt... everything !

I decided to let it rest and find a better solution or build a press. 

 

Still drilled the adjuster bolts out so there's that.

 

I figured well, since my rear is all disassembled I can service the other bearings ! 

I prepared for the worst and hoped for the best.... could not get them out directly so now I know I need to replace those too... 

 

after all it's not that bad since the bearings don't cost an arm and a leg, but the shipping form the US to Belgium is almost the same as the parts themselves.

 

Can someone tell me if ordering just the seals and the needles for the bearings will be enough or if I really need all the parts to replace them ?

 

piece of cr@p ( just kidding, can't wait to put it back together )
 

working on it a whole weekend without any succes does create some kind of love for the bike...

 

I'll keep you guys updated with pics

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I'm hoping to gain a better ride/more compliance on trail trash, without reducing bottoming resistance. I also like raising the rear of the bike up as it improves the geometry (quickens it) by steepening the head angle. Desert guys might not like that side effect.

I didnt' get out for a ride today, so it will be next weekend at the earliest.

In the shop it looks great.

- The YZ shock has 10mm more travel before it hits the bumper. With the WR linkage and shock, you only get 8 3/4" (roughly) of travel before the shock is on the bumper. Sounds like a lot, but don't forget you've got 4" used up in sag, so really only 4 3/4" usable travel. With the YZ shock and linkage, you get an extra 1.5" (roughly) of travel before hitting the bumper.

- The bike stands about 3/4" higher in the back.

- The YZ linkage has a higher ratio at the start and a similar ratio at the end. Makes the start of travel softer, where you hit trail trash. Also means the shock is operating at a slower shaft speed when you do.

I rode over some 2x4s and 4x4s behind the shop to test it out and it seems a lot better.

Prior to this change I also revalved the shock piston (compression and rebound) as well as revalved and resprung the comp adjuster. I also replaced the WR comp adjuster piston with the YZ piston. The WR comp adjuster piston is too restrictive for woods use.

FWIW, I'm benchmarking against a YZ250F running an Ohlin TTX shock. I think I've got my KYB shock as good as the Ohlin. Ohlin is easier to adjust though. Don't really have to take it apart unless the stack is really wrong.

I paid $90 for the shock and $70 for the linkage on eBay. I didn't put any parts into the shock, though it probably needs a head seal. It takes me about an hour to rebuild a shock once its removed from the bike.

The YZ shock weighs the same as the WR shock. The YZ linkage is 0.17 pounds lighter. Everything bolts right on. Gotta love the way Yamaha designs everything to be modular and interchangeable.

I have a thread in the suspension forum. I'll update it once I know for sure how it works.

Congrats on your bike. Why is it stalling ?

Sounds interesting. Do you think the geometry change will cause you to deflect off objects easier?

Will you have to soften the forks up a little since they have less rake?

I know nothing about suspension. Just asking.

And dammit I don't know. I assume CO is way off. What do you think? I only added a Q4 and removed the throttle stop.

2014 WRR-Totalled

2012 WR450F-Stolen

2012 WR450F-Third bikes the charm.

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Tested out the Gold Valves today ........

 

vidstill1002_zps51cf6826.jpg

Forgot to tighten the screw for the starter button :facepalm: , oh well I have another.

 

vidstill1004_zpsa7106794.jpg

 

vidstill1003_zpse7a896f3.jpg

 

vidstill1006_zps4eea49d5.jpg

 

vidstill1001_zps72481001.jpg

 

The suspension was awesome , a complete night and day improvement .  I can ride so much faster through the ruff stuff with out bottoming out ,

 landings are way better , it just felt a lot safer and gave me more confidence in general .

 

Best upgrade so far .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sounds interesting. Do you think the geometry change will cause you to deflect off objects easier?

Will you have to soften the forks up a little since they have less rake?

I know nothing about suspension. Just asking.

And dammit I don't know. I assume CO is way off. What do you think? I only added a Q4 and removed the throttle stop.

The geometry change is very small. Enough to affect handling, but not enough to affect suspension.

I read in the other thread it wont idle. I dont see that being caused by the isle mixture setting.

Is it a new bike ? Id take it back to the dealer. Used ? I'd call the previous owner and ask him for some history.

Id check

- air cleaner

- vacuum leak between the throttle body and the head

- id remove the maf sensor from the tb and check it

- id double check the throttle position sensor. These last two need the fi tool.

- next i would check the fuel pump pressure and the fuel filter

- next i would pull the fuel injector and clean it

- after that its time to check the valves

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

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The geometry change is very small. Enough to affect handling, but not enough to affect suspension.

I read in the other thread it wont idle. I dont see that being caused by the isle mixture setting.

Is it a new bike ? Id take it back to the dealer. Used ? I'd call the previous owner and ask him for some history.

Id check

- air cleaner

- vacuum leak between the throttle body and the head

- id remove the maf sensor from the tb and check it

- id double check the throttle position sensor. These last two need the fi tool.

- next i would check the fuel pump pressure and the fuel filter

- next i would pull the fuel injector and clean it

- after that its time to check the valves

It's a new 2012 leftover.

Air cleaner looked ok.

I'll try spraying some carb cleaner around the throttle body and see if the RPM's jump.

After that Ill take it to the dealership.

2014 WRR-Totalled

2012 WR450F-Stolen

2012 WR450F-Third bikes the charm.

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I'm hoping to gain a better ride/more compliance on trail trash, without reducing bottoming resistance. I also like raising the rear of the bike up as it improves the geometry (quickens it) by steepening the head angle. Desert guys might not like that side effect.

I didnt' get out for a ride today, so it will be next weekend at the earliest.

In the shop it looks great.

- The YZ shock has 10mm more travel before it hits the bumper. With the WR linkage and shock, you only get 8 3/4" (roughly) of travel before the shock is on the bumper. Sounds like a lot, but don't forget you've got 4" used up in sag, so really only 4 3/4" usable travel. With the YZ shock and linkage, you get an extra 1.5" (roughly) of travel before hitting the bumper.

- The bike stands about 3/4" higher in the back.

- The YZ linkage has a higher ratio at the start and a similar ratio at the end. Makes the start of travel softer, where you hit trail trash. Also means the shock is operating at a slower shaft speed when you do.

I rode over some 2x4s and 4x4s behind the shop to test it out and it seems a lot better.

Prior to this change I also revalved the shock piston (compression and rebound) as well as revalved and resprung the comp adjuster. I also replaced the WR comp adjuster piston with the YZ piston. The WR comp adjuster piston is too restrictive for woods use.

FWIW, I'm benchmarking against a YZ250F running an Ohlin TTX shock. I think I've got my KYB shock as good as the Ohlin. Ohlin is easier to adjust though. Don't really have to take it apart unless the stack is really wrong.

I paid $90 for the shock and $70 for the linkage on eBay. I didn't put any parts into the shock, though it probably needs a head seal. It takes me about an hour to rebuild a shock once its removed from the bike.

The YZ shock weighs the same as the WR shock. The YZ linkage is 0.17 pounds lighter. Everything bolts right on. Gotta love the way Yamaha designs everything to be modular and interchangeable.

I have a thread in the suspension forum. I'll update it once I know for sure how it works.

Congrats on your bike. Why is it stalling ?

I would like to do this, but not interested in the linkage part.

I have a 2007, what years of shocks can I use? Have there been many changes in the years?

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I would like to do this, but not interested in the linkage part.

I have a 2007, what years of shocks can I use? Have there been many changes in the years?

 

I don't know what shock the 2007 WR uses.  I *assume* it would be the same as the YZ shock already, but I might be wrong.   It is the 2012+ WRs that got the reduced stroke shocks.

 

Don't underestimate the value of swapping the linkage.

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Repacked my FMF Q4 tonight - this was about 50 hours. Hole burned clean through on the top...the rest of the packing was fine. A dead blow mallet is your friend.

IMAG1072.jpg

IMAG1076.jpg

There's quiet...and there's Q4 quiet.

I just made that up right now. That's right, FMF, if you want that one, you gotta pay. PM me. Marketing gold.

I will also accept a YZ250 Gold Series Fatty pipe as payment.

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